Fuel Fill Hose Leaking

[Bwana Bob]

I was getting my Explorer fueled the other day when fuel started trickling onto the ground. It looks like its leaking where the fill hose joins the filler neck. I have a good worm gear hose clamp there but the hose has deteriorated above the clamp. It may be that the hose is split or cut under the clamp. I'm going to take a close look at it this weekend.

I priced the fill hose, which, on Fast Parts Network and LMC Truck, is an assembly consisting of the filler neck, fill hose, vent hose and fittings. It is about $330.

Questions:

1) Is there enough slack in the fill hose for me to cut off the bad couple of inches and reconnect it to the filler neck?

2) Is the hose a standard size, so that I could just buy new hose by the foot at an auto parts store and cut it to length? Is heater hose resistant to gasoline?

3) I'm going to crawl underneath, but does anyone know if the fill hose can be replaced without dropping the tank? The pictures in my service books do not show a rear shield around the tank.

4) Would it be a bad idea to cut off the bad end of the hose and connect a short piece of new hose or one of those neoprene pipe couplings inline, perhaps joining the two hose sections with clamps and a piece of plastic pipe?

Thanks.

Bwana Bob

 

[Anime]

1) Maybe, there is barely enough slack in the hose at stock length. If the hose is just split at the clamp, then that might be ok, just cutting it and making it an inch or so shorter shouldn't be a big deal.

2) No, it's a custom tapered size. Most rubber hose is resistant to gasoline, but it's better to have specific fuel hose for this application.

3) Yes, all you need to replace the fuel hose is to loosen the hose clamps on the rear of the tank, pull the filler/vent hoses off, then unscrew all the fasteners holding the hose & ground cable assembly to the plastic mount behind the fuel filler door.

4) Probably, due to the potential for leaks.


Usually the metal filler neck is what rusts away and needs to be replaced. Rarely does the hose split or crack and require replacement, but it can happen.

You might even just have some minor rust-through that can be fixed with some new metal and welding. Just be sure to clean the neck well so there is NO fuel or anything else remaining on the surface.

The other 'fix' with welding might be to weld on a smaller size end to the filler neck with the same ID as the fuel tank end, so you can just use a regular large size hose that doesn't taper. I suspect that fillups would be slower and you'd have to be careful not to try and fill at full pump speed to avoid overflowing the filler hose and spilling fuel onto the side of the vehicle and the ground.

Due to the high, high cost of new OEM parts, your best bet for full replacement is buying what you need off a forum member here. Despite the high price for new parts, these are very inexpensive used and I've never seen anyone charge any kind of crazy price. Get one from the southeast and it should be rust free. May as well buy the whole thing, filler neck and hose and clamps from them, that way you can just replace it all and keep whatever is good of the original parts as a backup.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Anime is right, and usually, especially in the rust belt- the steel pipe inside the neck is what rusts away. Check the return line (smaller one) and see if you can wiggle it.

If it's junk, your best option is 1aauto.com, theirs is a LOT less expensive than elsewhere. I've installed 2 and had no issues with either. They also have an install video...

 

[corkey]

i also bet you have a check engine light too, po442, gross evap leak, , cause mine leaks and i get the same code,

 

[R&T Babich]

...
2) Is the hose a standard size, so that I could just buy new hose by the foot at an auto parts store and cut it to length? Is heater hose resistant to gasoline?
...

If it's just the hose that's bad you might be able to fit in 2 pieces of marine fuel hose and a piece of exhaust pipe that has been reduced.
Never thought about the fill pipe rusting out here in the southwest.
If people need fill pipes I can look for some next time I'm at U-Pick.

 

[Bwana Bob]

Thanks, guys!

You nailed it. I took it apart today, and sure enough, the filler neck is rusted out.

It looks like a piece of exhaust pipe would fit on the undamaged part of the filler neck and could be cemented and clamped in place. However, exhaust pipe isn't galvanized on the inside like the original filler neck seems to be. The end of the hose is in bad shape, though the bad part could be cut off. Naturally, the screws holding the rubber filler neck housing to the body sheared off as I was disassembling it. The screws holding the filler neck to the housing will never come off 'cuz I coated them with POR15 a few years ago.

I could patch together what I have, but it would be time consuming and it might not result in a reliable fix. I think that it will be safer and easier to just order new parts. Joe, I looked on the 1aa site but the oldest filler part years that they had were 95 or 97 and mine is a 92 (1st generation).

Poor old truck! She's 21 years old and the greatest battle now is against road salt induced rust. We don't even get that much snow here in NJ, though what we get is often mixed with sleet and freezing rain, but since most people don't know how to drive in snow and most only have all season touring tires, and the towns are all afraid of getting sued, they use tons and tons of salt.

I'll Let you guys know how I make out. Fortunately, the Ex is semi-retired, since I have a Focus (2010 SES) as the daily driver, so I'm not under pressure to make a "quick and dirty" fix.

Thanks again.

Bwana Bob

 

[Anime]

I replaced the screws holding the plastic housing to the body with stainless ones, and found the little three-tooth theaded backing nuts at Lowe's of all places, on the wall with those little hanging plastic bags of fasteners. The really small size is an exact match and fits in the holes the prior teeth made, after you pry them out from the back with a small screwdriver. I also used a roll of door/window insulating foam to replace the seal between the body and housing.

I would think you could chip away at the POR15 on the other screws, or even drill out the heads if you had to to pull the neck from the housing.

New parts might be the easy way to go, but if you consider repairing them, it looks like the newer necks on the 95-01's went to a tapered neck instead of a tapered hose, so it's a possibility. I wouldn't use exhaust pipe except as a quick fix, but whatever works. You could also just extend the filler neck to fit the old hose, perhaps even using a piece of galvanized pipe, cutting off the old and welding on the new.

 

[Bwana Bob]

Thanks, Anime,

I'm thinking adhesive-backed weatherstripping as a seal, too, and definitely stainless steel hardware.


If I could salvage the plastic housing, it would save $50. The only problem is the steel reinforcing plate on the outside of the plastic housing. It is rusted, which is why I painted it with POR15. It looks like it may be riveted to the housing. I'm no machinist, so it would be difficult for me to fabricate a replacement part, though I might be able to make one out of aluminum. I'll take another look at it.

Bob

 

[R&T Babich]

...If I could salvage the plastic housing, it would save $50. ...

If you can wait a week or so I can probably get you an entire clean filler assy from a SoCal car.
I was at our local U-Pick 2 weeks ago and there were at least 8 1st gens there.
I'm not looking to make anything, just cover the cost of the parts.
I think it won't be more than $20 plus shipping.
I'm retired and am enjoying keeping our '92 & '93 running for my kids to drive until they can afford their 1st cars.
Also, my sons are learning how to repair the cars as we go thru them.
If you're interested is there anything else you need I can look for?
I've been stocking up on clips, screws, bolts, trim pieces, fabric swatches, connectors, door latch post sleeves, etc.
Does anyone know of any differences in the '91 thru '94 filler assemblies?

 

[Bwana Bob]

Fuel Filler

R&T,

That would be great! I've searched the usual online parts suppliers and the only one I found that has the filler for a 92 is LMC truck, and because it is a special item, it is very expensive. LMC shows the same part for 91-94 Explorers. 95 and later are probably different. Here is what the parts look like:

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fex/full.aspx?Page=73

I will need the filler neck, of course, but I need the plastic housing (18), too, because the screws in my housing rusted, seized, and sheared off when I tried to remove them, and the steel plate in the center of the housing is rusted, too. And, I'll probably need the filler hose as well, since the end of mine is pretty mangled. I'd have to cut off about 2 inches to make it usable.

I realize that my "shopping list" is for more than just the filler neck and I don't want to impose, so if you can just come up with a good filler neck, I can probably salvage the other parts here. Whatever you can do will be much appreciated.

I haven't checked the auto years here in NJ, because if I did find the filler, it would probably be just as badly rusted. Whenever I go to SoCal on business, I marvel at all of the 1st generation Explorers with no rust!

Thank you again for your offer.

Bob

 

[R&T Babich]

... I will need the filler neck, of course, but I need the plastic housing (18), too, because the screws in my housing rusted, seized, and sheared off when I tried to remove them, and the steel plate in the center of the housing is rusted, too. And, I'll probably need the filler hose as well, since the end of mine is pretty mangled. I'd have to cut off about 2 inches to make it usable. ... Whenever I go to SoCal on business, I marvel at all of the 1st generation Explorers with no rust!

Hi, Bob,
We have a '92 parts car that came from Chicago so the plate is a little rusted. It was our family car until the kids got too big. I was practicing on it to see what tools I would need to take and the screws broke off with vise grips. We recently picked up a '92 (91k) and a '93 (101k) for the kids to drive and pay a lot less insurance. They both are in excellent condition, no rust, no body damage other than door dinks, interiors are cloth and almost perfect. Radios don't work, but they're the original Fords. The AC actually works well and I have a stockpile of R-12. My boys and I have been going thru them changing rubber hoses (all original), shocks, flushing systems, adding coolers, heater bypasses, etc. This forum has been great! Found some of that SEM 39143 Original Trim Black and it works great. We'll see how long it lasts. Weird paint, starts out with major orange peel then as it dries turns into a smooth satin finish. Looks like 3 screws and 2 hose clamps and the whole thing comes off. Do you want both hoses? Glad to help, Roger

 

[R&T Babich]

... I will need the filler neck, of course, but I need the plastic housing (18), ...

Bob,
Got the whole assembly for you - PMed details.
Remove 3 screws holding the plastic housing to the fender, ground strap screw, two hose clamps and the whole thing slides out.
There were 7 1st gens there and all had a clean, no rust fill pipe.
Most of the hoses had holes in them, I think because they drain the fuel tanks and are too lazy to remove the gas caps.
Trying to find a long narrow box for shipping, may have to modify one.

 

[Bwana Bob]

Got your message, Roger, and replied direct. This is wonderful!

Bob

 

[bigmark0272]

Big Problem

The problem is finding any of these vehicles left in junk yards, especially the explorers, because they were the #1 vehicle traded in during the govt's cash for clunkers deal. And of course, they were required by law to be crushed. Which all that did was really tie the hands of the poor man who has to try to keep his "clunker" on the road.

 

[R&T Babich]

The problem is finding any of these vehicles left in junk yards, especially the explorers, because they were the #1 vehicle traded in during the govt's cash for clunkers deal. ...

I can understand why that is the case in the northeast, but out here in the southwest there are still lots running around and quite a few in the junkyards.

 

[Bwana Bob]

Oh, don't get me started on Cash for Clunkers! I just hate the idea of deliberately destroying a running piece of machinery or electronics, especially for a dubious political goal.

Actually, they didn't have to be crushed, but the engines had to be destroyed. This was done by draining the oil and coolant and pouring a silicate solution into the crankcase, then running the engine until it seized. Horrible!

Some good friends of mine traded (killed) their 1995 XLT for a Toyota Corolla. The engine and drivetrain on their Ex were fine. It just needed shocks; was starting to rust a little in the rocker panels, and the infamous A/C blend door was broken; all fixable items.

I read that Toyota and Nissan were the major beneficiaries of the CfC program and that after the program ended, auto sales plummeted.

Fortunately, new and refurbished filler necks are available, if you can't find one in junkyard: http://www.fillernecksupply.com/servlet/StoreFront

I'm in NJ, and whenever I go to CA on business, I'm impressed by all the 1st and 2nd generation Explorers with no rust. They even have early Broncos out west!

There are still some 1st and 2nd generation Explorers here but they are getting pretty rusty, especially the 1st generation ones. Broncos or any generation are pretty much gone. I keep nursing my 1992 Ex, because it's, well.... irreplaceable!

Bob