Fuel Filter change

[beach]

So quick search showed how tough this job is for a lot of people, some taking hours to figure it out. I just changed mine on this truck (5.0) for the 1st time in 150k miles. Took me maybe 5-10 minutes if that? All I did was jack the left front slightly, use the removal tool (aluminum dual sided one that has two sizes), pressed it while pushing a bit on the fuel line forward. Then when it felt like it wouldn't budge any more, pulled the fuel filter right out, the vice versa for the front connector.

I was having a weird stuttering, almost miss-fire like feel, when driving and especially accelerating. Going to change wires and plugs after I seafoam it, but plugs were just done about 40k miles or so. Wires look fine, didn't test any shorts. Was kinda stumped then thought about the fuel filter. Looks like that was the issue, didn't cut it open but the fuel that drained out of it was nasty looking and more than likely the filter was clogged causing the issue.

 

[koda2000]

The secret of getting the fuel filter off is that you must be able to push the line in toward the filter while pushing the tool in. That's not always so easy to do when they're full of dirt. If the line wont move, there's no way you'll get the filter off. I'm surprised you made it 150k without changing a fuel filter. Ford recommends every 30K. A clogged filter can throw lean codes, leave you stranded and kill your fuel pump.

 

[2TimingTom]

When I did my Explorer, it took awhile. But it was just what koda explained. When I did my Expedition, 5 minutes easy.

 

[beach]

The secret of getting the fuel filter off is that you must be able to push the line in toward the filter while pushing the tool in. That's not always so easy to do when they're full of dirt. If the line wont move, there's no way you'll get the filter off. I'm surprised you made it 150k without changing a fuel filter. Ford recommends every 30K. A clogged filter can throw lean codes, leave you stranded and kill your fuel pump.

Surprised too lol. It may of been changed once under warranty but can't remember. I think it got rid of the stuttering, I thought I was having a misfire somewhere with the plugs/wires etc, but think it was the fuel filter finally at the "I give up on life" point lol.

Yeah some said their clips rusted right off and some of that rust could get inside the tiny groves. Must be b/c I'm in South FL, my clips on each end literally looked brand new and shiny lol, and checked for dirt first but there wasn't any to spray or wipe off. Did have some fuel dribble on my head after disconnecting lol

I depressurized the fuel system, maybe some didn't do that and its harder to get apart?

 

[bill06447]

It's all but impossible to get these apart with pressure in the system...

Bill

 

[koda2000]

Surprised too lol. It may of been changed once under warranty but can't remember. I think it got rid of the stuttering, I thought I was having a misfire somewhere with the plugs/wires etc, but think it was the fuel filter finally at the "I give up on life" point lol.

Yeah some said their clips rusted right off and some of that rust could get inside the tiny groves. Must be b/c I'm in South FL, my clips on each end literally looked brand new and shiny lol, and checked for dirt first but there wasn't any to spray or wipe off. Did have some fuel dribble on my head after disconnecting lol

I depressurized the fuel system, maybe some didn't do that and its harder to get apart?

I just did one 2 days ago. I got fuel in my ear. It hurt like hell for 20-30 minutes.

 

[masospaghetti]

the quick connects work great when they are clean but can be a nightmare when they get corroded or full of crap.

After destroying one and having to splice a new line, I found that flushing the fitting with penetrating oil and brake cleaner alternating tends to loosen up grime pretty well and haven't destroyed one since. Just be patient and let the oil and solvent wash the junk out.

 

[beach]

Well stuttering/misfire feel came back, not as bad as before, but still there. Only thing I can think of is the fuel pump. Its not bad so leave it as is for now till I have some time, been working on it bit by bit as time allows lol. The old fuel filter, what came out was so nasty looking and dirty/gritty looking.

 

[NWTPilot]

I had a missing/stuttering/misfire problem recently and turned out to be a loose plug wire or maybe water in the boot.

I had just replaced the plugs and wires, so never suspected them. Took them off one day to check the wires on the multimeter, everything checked out, but when I put it back together, it never missed again.

Mine only did it when the engine was up to temp, ran smooth cold.

Its a freebie if all you have to do is give your boots a push, you might luck out!

Good luck!

 

[fast_dave]

Well stuttering/misfire feel came back, not as bad as before, but still there. Only thing I can think of is the fuel pump. Its not bad so leave it as is for now till I have some time, been working on it bit by bit as time allows lol. The old fuel filter, what came out was so nasty looking and dirty/gritty looking.

Given how long you went w/o a fuel filter change (150,000 Miles), your report of the sludge that dripped out of that old filter when you turned it upside-down, I'd say you're on the right track. Sounds like a weak fuel pump.

It's plausible that the fuel pump was overworked pushing fuel through a constricted filter. AND, as your tank fuel level went down, and the pump was "hanging in the air" of the tank, no doubt it heated up even more than normal due to the constriction.

BUT - NWTPilot offers up some good, sound & free advice. I'd try his tip first before spending any $$$

A fuel pump is a pretty big job - at least a half day labor, and it costs a few bucks, not to mention the fact that you could open a "Pandora's Box".

So - If you have a HF close by - a fuel injection pressure tester might be worth buying for $20. It hooks up to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.

The coupon below brings it down to $16

Link: http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html

Coupon good thru June:

 

[beach]

Given how long you went w/o a fuel filter change (150,000 Miles), your report of the sludge that dripped out of that old filter when you turned it upside-down, I'd say you're on the right track. Sounds like a weak fuel pump.

It's plausible that the fuel pump was overworked pushing fuel through a constricted filter. AND, as your tank fuel level went down, and the pump was "hanging in the air" of the tank, no doubt it heated up even more than normal due to the constriction.

BUT - NWTPilot offers up some good, sound & free advice. I'd try his tip first before spending any $$$

A fuel pump is a pretty big job - at least a half day labor, and it costs a few bucks, not to mention the fact that you could open a "Pandora's Box".

So - If you have a HF close by - a fuel injection pressure tester might be worth buying for $20. It hooks up to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.

The coupon below brings it down to $16

Link: http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html

Coupon good thru June:

Lol, I have some HF coupons sitting in the folder for the truck where I'm keeping everything for work done/parts.

Fuel Pump is confusing. Can't find anything but a Motorcraft Assembly and Rockauto has three ranging from $300-$600 not sure what the difference is or whats included (no sender, sender, strainer etc??). Anything cheaper, I can find the pumps no prob, anyone just replace the pump and not the whole assembly? Seems motorcraft and airtex are the only options, even 1aauto sponser on here only has airtex yet have not read a good thing about them and say its more likely you'll replace it multiple times a year from failing, wtf lol.

Seems other vehicles you can't find various OE quality assemblies and parts easily, this truck seems like theres nothing but Motorcraft or Airtex (advanceauto says Carquest but don't know who makes it and your not guarenteed it, you either get a Carquest one or Airtex when ordering).

 

[koda2000]

Lol, I have some HF coupons sitting in the folder for the truck where I'm keeping everything for work done/parts.

Fuel Pump is confusing. Can't find anything but a Motorcraft Assembly and Rockauto has three ranging from $300-$600 not sure what the difference is or whats included (no sender, sender, strainer etc??). Anything cheaper, I can find the pumps no prob, anyone just replace the pump and not the whole assembly? Seems motorcraft and airtex are the only options, even 1aauto sponser on here only has airtex yet have not read a good thing about them and say its more likely you'll replace it multiple times a year from failing, wtf lol.

Seems other vehicles you can't find various OE quality assemblies and parts easily, this truck seems like theres nothing but Motorcraft or Airtex (advanceauto says Carquest but don't know who makes it and your not guarenteed it, you either get a Carquest one or Airtex when ordering).

I just buy the pump. I look for Bosch pumps on eBay. I just bought one for my '01 ST for $52 (with free shipping) and don't forget you'll also need a new strainer/sock filter. They range in price from $9-$18 on eBay. I usually get the Airtex FS199 strainer for around $13. If there's nothing wrong with your fuel gauge sender or pressure regulator why spend $300-$600 on stuff you don't need? Changing just the pump is easy. Easier than replacing the assembly because you don't need to disconnect the fuel line (which is a major PITA). I just drop the tank, unbolt the assembly, remove it and swing it over the leaf spring to work on it. Look for a pump that comes with the rubber insulator, jumper wire (with 2 connecters) and a replacement piece of hose. Some come with a bunch of junk you will not use (because the pumps fit multiple applications).

BTW, Stay away from Aixtex pumps. I replaced one last winter that wasn't even 2 years old. You can't go wrong with Bosch. Motorcraft parts are just stupid expensive. I never buy Motorcraft stuff for that reason. I'm on my 3rd fuel pump replacement this year (in 3 different vehicles). If you have any questions, call the Bosch Tech line (Goggle it). They'll clear up any questions you may have about pumps.

 

[beach]

I just buy the pump. I look for Bosch pumps on eBay. I just bought one for my '01 ST for $52 (with free shipping) and don't forget you'll also need a new strainer/sock filter. They range in price from $9-$18 on eBay. I usually get the Airtex FS199 strainer for around $13. If there's nothing wrong with your fuel gauge sender or pressure regulator why spend $300-$600 on stuff you don't need? Changing just the pump is easy. Easier than replacing the assembly because you don't need to disconnect the fuel line (which is a major PITA). I just drop the tank, unbolt the assembly, remove it and swing it over the leaf spring to work on it. Look for a pump that comes with the rubber insulator, jumper wire (with 2 connecters) and a replacement piece of hose. Some come with a bunch of junk you will not use (because the pumps fit multiple applications).

BTW, Stay away from Aixtex pumps. I replaced one last winter that wasn't even 2 years old. You can't go wrong with Bosch. Motorcraft parts are just stupid expensive. I never buy Motorcraft stuff for that reason. I'm on my 3rd fuel pump replacement this year (in 3 different vehicles). If you have any questions, call the Bosch Tech line (Goggle it). They'll clear up any questions you may have about pumps.

That was my thinking too. Thanks. Fuel gauge etc is fine. Thats why I was like wtf thats a waste of money if you only need a pump, which can be found easily and cheaply, why spend another 300-600 bucks for no reason lol. Motorcraft parts for anything are just stupid expensive, you'd think you were driving an exotic for what some parts cost, when you can find parts for like a 1/4-1/2 the price that are just as good.

Heard nothing but bad about Airtex, not even sure how they stay in business.... oh wait its b/c they fail constantly within 30 days to 6 months and people will just keep buying them over and over lol. Oh and they deny warranty with their scam of failing pumps due to faulty installation which can't be proved or disproved, funny how some people went through multiple ones and finally put in a good pump and no issues.

Looks like Delphi makes a pump, Bosch is pretty cheap. I think Ford generally use Bosch for awhile for fuel pumps, or still does? Still going to test fuel pressure to make sure, as maybe it is something loose with a wire or plug. I did have a CEL and was a lean code showing cylinder 8 missfire. I cleaned the engine bay and hosed it down, and the code went away and it ran smooth. Then it started that missfire feel again but not CEL. I have new plugs and wires but was waiting to do seafoam treatment before replacing.

 

[koda2000]

Bosch fuel pumps were OE. I've never heard about anyone having problems with them. As far as a warranty, you don't want to repeat this job. Getting a warranty on the pump doesn't mean anything if you have to do this job multiple times.

Get the fuel pressure tested. On the return-type fuel system it should be around 35 PSI at the rail. On the later return-less style fuel system you should have around 65 PSI at the rail. If your fuel pressure is low and your fuel filter is new it's probably the pump that is bad, but there are instances where you may have a split hose between the pump and the FPR in the tank or a bad FPR, but it's usually the fuel pump that goes bad. I think it's probably a good PM item to replace the fuel pump at around 150,000 miles. They just wear out.

I suggest you replace the OE hose clamps, between the pump ad FPR, with fuel injection style clamps. The OE worm-style clamps tend to loosen over time and may leak. The ones I just took off my ST were quite loose.

In the below pic you can see my fuel pump assembly draped over the leaf spring.

http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/kodabear2000/media/115_0028_zpsi4mbaqyz.jpg.html?o=3

If you need any help with removing your tank and fuel pump assembly, just let me know. I'm getting to be an expert at it.

 

[koda2000]

Here's the pump I just purchased:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321774135133?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

It comes with a bunch of stuff I don't need, but everything I do need (like the FI clamps, hose, pump, jumper wire and pump insulator). Only other thing I needed was the strainer. Beware of the pumps sold with a strainer, as it tends to be very small. I prefer the Aixtex FS199 strainer, as it's close to the OE size.

BTW, when I removed my dead Aixtex pump, the pump insulator was swollen, deformed and soft. Piece of junk!

 

[drdoom]

Carter makes OE pumps.

 

[koda2000]

Carter makes OE pumps.

I thought I read here that Bosch was the OE manufacturer, but in any case I trust Bosch more than Carter. Seems like most here like/use Bosch pumps.

 

[drdoom]

I prefer BOSCH also, there are the best and are available at a very reasonable price.

 

[drdoom]

You ever seen the BOSCH coffee makers? Beautiful and $$$$$$. Makes good brew, just like human gasoline!

 

[koda2000]

You ever seen the BOSCH coffee makers? Beautiful and $$$$$$. Makes good brew, just like human gasoline!

I have a Keurig. Love it and it wasn't that expensive. You have to use the refillable plastic K-Cups though or you'll pay through the nose for the coffee. LoL. Generally I like Bosch products, just not their spark plugs.