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Fuel Filter Replacement w/pics

Help....I've spent two day, total of 7 hours trying to get the fuel disconnect tool to work. I got the inlet lines disconnected with no problems but no matter what I do, I cannot disconnect the line requiring the tool. I've used 2 different tools, a prybar, a large screwdriver and so on and CANNOT get it to pop off. WHAT DO I DO NOW?
 



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heres some fails ive had so far with my tools

scissor type from AZ

harbor freight plastic ones

sharpie cap

bic pen

brute force

previous owner cut the spout off the old filter and just used rubber line and hose clamp to connect it. i still havent tried the multi colored disconnect tools yet.
 






I feel your pain, before the school semester started I tried to change out my filter. I've done it before, but this time I just could not get this one connector undone. I even bought two different tools. I've done it once before and now I can't get all the connectors off anymore.

I had my explorer up on the stands for 24 hours before I gave up. I'm going to try it again after the semester ends.

My advice to you... take it to a shop, its what I will probably end up doing.
 






I feel your pain, before the school semester started I tried to change out my filter. I've done it before, but this time I just could not get this one connector undone. I even bought two different tools. I've done it once before and now I can't get all the connectors off anymore.

I had my explorer up on the stands for 24 hours before I gave up. I'm going to try it again after the semester ends.

My advice to you... take it to a shop, its what I will probably end up doing.

i think thats what its coming to but here in vegas shops are notorious for sabotage i took my truck to a muffler shop to pass inspections and they sabotaged my AC and turn signals. but ill ask my peeps to refer me
 






Whoever designed this fuel line tool needs to be kicked in the balls. I bought 2 metal scissor types, one does A-B-C-D sizes and the other is E-F sizes. None of them fit the tube. I measured the tube and it's 3/8in size E. The E size perfectly fits the smaller of the 3 tubes which is 5/16in but thats on the inlet side which uses the red clips not this tool. The E size doesn't fit the 3/8in tube! The F size is too small for any. I even tried just using one end of the scissor vs both, no luck. I'm going to try the plastic ones this time. PITA and driving me crazy...
 






So FYI... I took back the scissor type fuel line tool and got this aluminum set instead. It was more expensive but worked perfectly, got the line off right away with 3/8in. I think those scissor tools are so poorly made, it's worth the extra money to save trips/time/frustration.
 






Wow, what an epic waste of time.....that was seriously the most frustrating thing I've ever done, and I watch inmates all day who have nothing better to do than complain about everything! I used the scissor tool, nothing, went back and got the aluminum thing, still nothing! I finally gave up around 6:30 because the sun would be setting soon, and just put the rock guard and heat shield back (don't even get me started on the stupid bolts for the rock guard that just twist with you so it takes 5x as long to tighten the nuts...). Maybe I'll try again tomorrow, or just wait until my next day off on Tuesday and commit the whole day to it. Any more secrets that people want to share?
 






Well, the sun is setting on another day, and what do I have to show for it? A new fuel filter? HA! Nope, merely a sore thumb from pushing the little plastic thing it. That's right, I bought the third "tool" today, hoping it would work, despite everyone else saying the plastic ones were the worst of the three. Surprisingly, it pushed into the connector, really far actually, but no matter what I did, the connector would still not come off. So now I ask myself, is it worth it? Obviously after 80,000 miles, I need a new fuel filter, but it's been two days of effing around with this thing, and I'm no further than I was in the beginning......ugh....
 






:salute:
nuke-it-from-orbit.jpg
 






Lol, I would, but I'm a little fond of my X...
 






Okay, seriously, I've been f-ing with this thing for the last 3 hours, NOTHING WORKS!!!! I am beyond frustration and if I had a nuke, I might just consider BigFellor's advice. This is such bulls**t.....
 






I feel your pain. One thing you can try is to re-secure the filter for stability. Then you should be able to push the fuel line towards the filter and see it move a bit on the tube. Put that stupid fuel line removal tool on there and put something between it and the filter side to keep it from sliding back. Then try to push the line over the tool which should disengage those internal clips. Then while holding the line and tool pull both away from the filter. That is the best way I can describe it. I was able to remove mine with that aluminum tool easily without having to do this though.
 






Yeah, I put the nuts right back on after taking the dust shield thingy off. I've tried putting the handle of my small wrench between the filter body and tool, seems to help a little, but not enough to disengage the clips.....it's really, really annoying, lol....
 






Well, I gave up today and finally just took it to a shop. I think this is one instance where trying to do it yourself ended up costing more, because I bought all of the supplies and everything, only to end up having to pay someone else to do it....

I looked inside the fitting, and it didn't look all that hard, but for some reason no matter what I did, it wouldn't come off. I don't know if it's because it hasn't been changed in 83k miles or what, but whatever, it's done now.....time to move on to the next thing.....
 






How much $ for this job at the dealership?

All this trouble? How much would it be to have the fuel filter changed at the dealership. Should be no more that 1/2hour + $15 for the filter, for a total of say $65.
Any immediate improvements, in fuel economy or ....?
 






All this trouble? How much would it be to have the fuel filter changed at the dealership. Should be no more that 1/2hour + $15 for the filter, for a total of say $65.
Any immediate improvements, in fuel economy or ....?

Ended up costing me $72 + tax, of course this was AFTER I spent a bunch of money on jack stands, new filter, and all of the "tricks"......


And to be honest, I didn't really notice any improvement, though at 83k, it was more than past due, lol....
 






My dealer service department will change out the filter for $50. It sounds like a deal compared to a $15.00 filter, a special tool and potential for problems if I try it at home.
 






where is the fuel relay located on a 05 explorer?
 






Just find a good reliable and honest mechanic! Mine changed the fuel filter and serpentine belt for $40 bucks!
 



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Hi Everyone. First post although have searched and used info from this forum for some time now.

Just changed out my daughter's 03 Sport Trac fuel filter using the contributions of everyone in this thread. Wanted to say thanks to each and every one of you for all your insight to this and all the other very informative and helpful threads on this forum.

The Sport Trac was originally bought for my wife and passed to our daughter once my wife received a new car this past Christmas.

Filter R/R comments:
- Lots of room under the 03 Sport Trac to work
- Tried removing the engine side line first, no joy
- Removed small "back side" line using 3/8 plastic tool from O'Reillys
- Removed large "back side" line using same plastic tool
- Removed filter from bracket and was then able to remove engine side line using same tool after many physical attempts and verbal contributions of persuasion
- After 70K+ miles using Chevron regular (Disclosure statement: no affiliation with Chevron or the petroleum industry) the gas coming from the filter was clear. Cut the end off the filter and examined the media. Found the outside of the media was brown with only fine particles evident
- Installation of new Motorcraft filter was anti-climatic after removal efforts.

Do not think fuel filter is the culprit for the recently observed 171 & 174 "lean" codes. Have examined vac lines twice using brake cleaner on a cold engine as recommend by several local repair shops including a Ford service manager. Focused on the 90 deg turn coming out of PCV. Have cleaned both MAF and throttle body. Have yet to examine the vac lines et al under the battery box. Will return to 2000StreetRod's thread on lean codes and look for anything that I may have missed.

Thanks again to all for your contributions to a great site.

Sledgehammer ;~)
 






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