Fuel Injector Not Working. How do I find the bad one? Need help!

[donalds]

Watch for sparks have water ready in case of a fire brake clean is flammable

 

[410Fortune]

I use carb cleaner and do this outside also …….wear eye protection
Like a grapefruit carb cleaner will always find your eyeballs

 

[BTR]

2000 Explorer XLT 4DR 2WD 4.0L SOHC JOB 1 (VIN E). 5-Speed Automatic O/D 5R55E. 152,000 miles.

FINALLY! Hooray! Installing 3 new refurbed injectors in Bank 2 solved the roughness (and crazy STFTs) problem.

The eBay seller shipped the refurbed injectors quickly (both times) and was good about sending 3 additional injectors at no charge with free shipping. However, he was negligent in sending a bad injector in the original batch of 6. His eBay page states that injectors are tested statically and dynamically, but it appears that one of my original 6 injectors wasn’t actually “statically nor dynamically” proficient.

Tips for doing this job include:

1. To relieve the fuel pressure: At idle, in the battery junction box, remove the Fuel Pump Relay (#5).
2. To seal the injector holes while removing the old seats/adapters, insert a long (10” or so) piece of 3/8” Foam Caulk-Backer (Frost King, Home Depot). It’ll seal enough for you to tear-away at the old seals (they shred into tens of pieces) to get them out while vacuuming at the same time.
3. When reinstalling the Lower Intake Manifold (SOHC Job 1 VIN E engine), put the small hole and the part number on the passenger side. And, of course, replace the 6 gaskets under the Lower Intake Manifold. Do 3 passes of tightening inside-to-outside… 8, 9, 10 ft. lbs. No more than 10!
4. Drill out the 8 screw holes in the Upper Intake Manifold with a 1/4" bit in order to stop the screws from grabbing it during installation. This will allow the upper intake to properly snug-down onto the lower intake while being tightened. This worked extremely well for me. Thanks to donalds for sharing this tip.
5. Connect the driver side Fuel Vapor Return Line to the Upper Intake Manifold before seating the manifold. Otherwise, it might not go on and you’ll have to loosen/remove the manifold to get it connected.
6. If you run into problems doing a differential diagnosis between a potential vapor leak and a potential bad injector, an OBD scan tool coupled with Excel spreadsheets is invaluable!

Many, many thanks to donalds, 410Fortune, and Motorhogman for their insightful tips, suggestions and help… without which I’d likely have messed something up pretty bad.

 

[donalds]

Mark this thread is solved
@Rick

 

[BTR]

I searched the content and looked around for quite a while, but couldn't find out how to mark this thread as Solved. Maybe I missed it. How do I mark it as Solved? Do I need a paid membership to do that?

 

[Mbrooks420]

I think a moderator has to do it.

 

[Redimuss]

Take a real bim screwdriver and i mean big put the driver end on the injector oh have motor running place your ear on the handle if each injector is working you will hear it clicking as it goes on n off you wont hear this from the bad 1

 

[410Fortune]

He used a stethoscope earlier and listened to all 6 injectors
They were all clicking

 

[Redimuss]

He used a stethoscope earlier and listened to all 6 injectors
They were all clicking

ok just tryin to help if there all clickin sounds like 1 is plugged

 

[Lee's Automotive]

I dare you to tighten them up that much please take pictures of the stripped plastic threads and broken bolts in the head
After 3 lower intake plenum s I learned a lesson
I'm not trying to be an ass I've just been there a time or to

I would show u the parts but I think I blew them up or used them for target practice



Ask @Lee's Automotive

Just seen this thread was revived so I'll share my experience, On the lower intake manifold bolts if you tighten them any tighter than snug you WILL break the bolts off in the head and it is a pain to drill them out also as for the upper intake manifold those wood screws are a pain as well and if you tighten them any tighter than hand tight you WILL strip them out and at that point you will have a vacuum leak and will need to replace the lower intake manifold I have done this job several times on the Job 1 engine and every time I do it I replace the lower intake manifold with a new one and drill the upper holes so the bolts slide it and then hand tighten to the lower intake it saves a lot of trouble to do it this way now as far as the shop manual is concerned 13ft lbs. is too much for the lower intake in my opinion, I never torque the lower or upper intake and I haven't had a single issue doing it this way, Also a side note for anyone in the future that is doing this job on their 4.0 SOHC engine I would highly recommend replacing the plastic thermostat housing with a metal one and replacing the driver and passenger side timing chain tensioners with Ford OEM parts only it's much easier to replace these things when the intakes are off the engine