Gas Gauge not right

[shirley klotz]

Hi , I'm new hope I'm posting in right place.

I have a 2005 ford explorer Eddie bauer
Addition is what seller told me ,and says Eddie bauer on trunk. Anyway I am asking about my gas gauge it is not reading right has not for a while less then a year since I got it, I bought it used. Check engine light came on right after getting it a friend with one of those hook up things read it and a code came up I don't remember the code.

I fill it up it takes about 15 gallons or so and it says it's full. I fill it when the light comes on or when I get to about 282 miles. I'm not even sure how many miles to the gallon I can get. What could be the cause ? The friend whos machine read the code said the code was showing something that is in the gas tank, that makes gauge work. Can someone help this lady out and tell me what it is or could be? I need to get it fix. Oh he wiped the code off and has not come back on.
Thanks

Edited to fix typo on milage had wrong numbers.
Also is it normal for the check engine light to come on and go off not to come on again? The light only came on once. How many miles should I get for this type of car.

 

[koda2000]

I don't have an '05 and the fact that it might be an Eddie Bauer trim level is not useful information. Knowing what the DTC code was might have been helpful. The only things I'm thinking is either the fuel level sender in the fuel tank is not reading the fuel level correctly. The fuel level sender is part of the fuel pump assembly and is difficult to change if you don't have the mechanical skills and tools. The assembly can also be on the expensive side. It might also be the fuel gauge is not working properly, but the level sender would be my guess.

 

[shirley klotz]

I don't have an '05 and the fact that it might be an Eddie Bauer trim level is not useful information. Knowing what the DTC code was might have been helpful. The only things I'm thinking is either the fuel level sender in the fuel tank is not reading the fuel level correctly. The fuel level sender is part of the fuel pump assembly and is difficult to change if you don't have the mechanical skills and tools. The assembly can also be on the expensive side. It might also be the fuel gauge is not working properly, but the level sender would be my guess.

I'm going to go to Advance Auto Wednesday and see if they can see what the last code was on the car

 

[ElectronFlow]

Calculating the "miles to empty" is the cheapest fix.
You should get around 280-290 miles depending on "lead foot" to a tank.
Don't push your luck with an error reading gas gauge.

Since you bought it used the fuel pump and sender assembly may have been replaced?
Has the gauge ever worked properly?

Let's assume the pump and sender have been replaced.
The gauge is obviously working, going from full to low fuel.

If you are getting low fuel light at only 182 miles the float arm is bent
up to far.
Taking the fuel sending unit and pump assembly out of the fuel tank
and bending the float arm down slightly or more would solve the problem.
Not what one wants to hear when saving $$$ on repairs is the goal.

I had similar issue when replacing the fuel pump in the 2002 Mazda Tribute
at 182K miles. It would read just less than 1/4 tank at empty.
Not bad when one has the tools and know how to quickly pull the assembly
back out and bend the float arm to adjust for out of calibration in manufacturing.

 

[ElectronFlow]

A code can only be read or pulled if the CEL (Check Engine Light) is on or flashing.

 

[shirley klotz]

I'm sorry I meant to say 282 miles hit wrong number. I'm not sure if it ever read right, but light does come on around 282 miles. Is it cheaper just to go by miles and fill. Do you have an idea how much miles I should get?

My husband said at least 400 since we had a suburban that got 450 miles per full tank.

I'm think might be cheaper just to keep doing what I have been and filling up at 282 miles
Thanks for the help

 

[ElectronFlow]

Figure 15 gallon tank, 1 gallon reserve.
18 - 20 - 22 miles per gallon or more highway, city driving is less.
15 x 18 = 270
15 x 20 = 300
15 x 22 = 330

It is best to keep 1/4 tank just in case of emergency need.

 

[koda2000]

It's possible that a previous owner replaced the fuel pump assembly in the past and might have bent the float arm, bending the float arm back to where it should be may get the gauge reading accurately again, but doing this would be a hit-or-miss operation, perhaps requiring putting the tank up and down and pulling the FP assembly multiple times. This might not cost me anything but time, but I consider my time valuable. The risk reward just doesn't work IMO. If it were mine I'd just replace the FP assembly with a good quality new one and hope that fixed the issue.

I once had old mini van that had a fuel gauge that sometimes worked and usually didn't. For years I would estimate when I needed to buy gas based on miles traveled. Doing this usually worked out OK, but at lease once a year I'd run it out of gas. It was PITA and not worth it, but I didn't want to put any money into that old POS.

For example: In my '01 V8 Explorer I usually fill the tank when I get to around 1/4 tank +/-, which is typically at around 285 miles of mostly around town driving (figuring around 14-16 MPG on a 24 gal tank) but I don't trust that because mileage can vary quite a bit based on many factors. Based on where and how I drive my mileage varies between 14 and 21 MPG, which would make estimating when to buy gas difficult based on number miles traveled. It's up to you.

 

[ElectronFlow]

Leave it to engineers to not leave an access plate to get to the fuel pump/sending unit
float arm on those years of Explorer.
A Delphi unit @ $149.79 + shipping vs a Motorcraft @ $433.79 + shipping shows why time
vs cost, both being valuable, steers folks toward the cheaper units.

Installation by some can also be the reason a good quality unit reads off, as they may
inadvertently bend the float arm during installation.

 

[koda2000]

Leave it to engineers to not leave an access plate to get to the fuel pump/sending unit
float arm on those years of Explorer.
A Delphi unit @ $149.79 + shipping vs a Motorcraft @ $433.79 + shipping shows why time
vs cost, both being valuable, steers folks toward the cheaper units.

Installation by some can also be the reason a good quality unit reads off, as they may
inadvertently bend the float arm during installation.

I agree with everything you are saying. I've replaced 6-7 Gen II fuel pumps (the pumps only) and have used Bosch replacement pumps exclusively, which typically run between $40-$50 w/free shipping off eBay and they even come with the needed installation pieces. I've replaced them myself (takes me about 1.5 hours) I've have never bent the fuel lever sender arm and all the pumps have worked flawlessly to-date. With a new strainer sock and a Motorcraft fuel filter it costs me only around $75. If you have to replace the complete FP assembly and have to pay a mechanic to do it you may end up paying $600 or more. It's nuts.

 

[shirley klotz]

It does say 381 miles to empty and the tank is a little under fuel. So I should get about 380 gallons till empty.
I took pics put cant figure out how to post them.

 

[koda2000]

It does say 381 miles to empty and the tank is a little under fuel. So I should get about 380 gallons till empty.
I took pics put cant figure out how to post them.

380 sounds like an awfully range to me. Assuming you have a 24 gal tank (I have no idea what size an 05 might have) and get an average of 16 MPG would be 384 miles per tank, but that's assuming you're getting 16 MPG which might not be the case based on how/where you driving during the consumption of 24 gals of fuel. As you haven't consumed the fuel yet the trip computer can only guess at what your consumption will be.

If you go by your "estimates" you will run out of gas at some point. An automotive fuel gauge and the trip computer's "estimated miles to empty" are only a best guess, which is usually good enough to tell you when you should start looking for a gas station. Either get your fuel level sender replaced or live with the fact that you'll never really know approx how much fuel you have or how far you can go. Good luck.

 

[shirley klotz]

380 sounds like an awfully range to me. Assuming you have a 24 gal tank (I have no idea what size an 05 might have) and get an average of 16 MPG would be 384 miles per tank, but that's assuming you're getting 16 MPG which might not be the case based on how/where you driving during the consumption of 24 gals of fuel. As you haven't consumed the fuel yet the trip computer can only guess at what your consumption will be.

If you go by your "estimates" you will run out of gas at some point. An automotive fuel gauge and the trip computer's "estimated miles to empty" are only a best guess, which is usually good enough to tell you when you should start looking for a gas station. Either get your fuel level sender replaced or live with the fact that you'll never really know approx how much fuel you have or how far you can go. Good luck.

I guess I'm going to get the fuel level sender replaced hopefully my son's and husband can do it
Thanks

 

[koda2000]

Well that's what I'd try. Hope it fixes your issue.

 

[fordxfactor]

My '04 Sport Trac has a gas gauge issue, too. Mine happened after I was trying to squeeze a little more gas in and overfilled it trying to avoid go back inside for change. As soon as I started it up, the low fuel light came on, and the gauge dropped to empty. I never know how much fuel I have in it. I have some other issues that I've fixed, and now are more serious, like CT emissions won't interface with my computer, but FORScan does, and handheld readers, but since it was plugged into the emissions equipment a couple of weeks ago, my CEL is on saying to check my gas cap or lines for a minor leak. I'm pretty sure this has nothing to do with my erratic reading gauge. It reads from full to half, like that's the normal range from full to empty, but it usually only takes 15 gallons at the pump. Just going to by a pump/sending unit off ebay, unless you guys/gals think it's a faulty gauge?

(Future Plans: I have my '01 5.0 Mountaineer that's been sitting around, waiting for my health to improve, so my friends and I can swap the drivetrain, convert to manual 4x4, put in my Dana 44, and most likely swap the center console with the idiot light cluster (mainly for the estimated fuel economy), the gas tank, PATS, gauge cluster, side mirrors, headlight switch, rearview mirror with adjustable lights turn off, and integrate the back up sensors, and not have a rat's nest of wires, lol.)

 

[donalds]

I guess I'm going to get the fuel level sender replaced hopefully my son's and husband can do it
Thanks

Smart. Move I would replace the pump to with a good quality pump like koda stated that way you will have piece of mind More Information for MOTORCRAFT PS243

I can't find just the pump itself
Pn# Bosch 69134 I think

 

[koda2000]

Smart. Move I would replace the pump to with a good quality pump like koda stated that way you will have piece of mind More Information for MOTORCRAFT PS243

I can't find just the pump itself
Pn# Bosch 69134 I think

For my 2000's and 2001's I've used the Bosch PN 69128 replacement pumps (pump only) and I believe this pump will also work on the 1999 model. I know that for my '97 (with the return-style fuel system) I had to use a different Bosch PN fuel pump.

I've noticed that some eBay fitment charts may exclude the Mountaineers from the 69128 pump, but I called Bosch on this and they couldn't give me reason why and I found the Mountaineers to have exactly the same fuel pump setup, which is what I expected.

I regularly fill my gas tank to the max before trips and have never experienced any adverse issues from doing this, though it's probably not a good idea to do so. I suspect @fordxfactor's fuel level sender was wearing out and overfilling the tank finished it off, or perhaps it had a manufacturing flaw that caused it to fail.

 

[donalds]

Found it on the rock More Information for BOSCH 69128

When I installed the supercharger the pump was for 02-05 and it was a drop in fit for my 99 should be good to go for the 05

 

[fordxfactor]

I'm curious if the OP @shirley klotz posted in the right section. This section is for Sport Tracs and while basic info might be applicable, the 2005 Explorer and 2005 Explorer Sport Trac are different animals. Tank size, sending unit, etc, would model specific, even the tank itself is different. I was rereading the original post and something stuck out to me. The Eddie Bauer Edition emblem being on the trunk. The first gen (2001-2005) Sport Trac's weren't offered in an EB Edition. Hopefully she gets the right part!

 

[koda2000]

I'm curious if the OP @shirley klotz posted in the right section. This section is for Sport Tracs and while basic info might be applicable, the 2005 Explorer and 2005 Explorer Sport Trac are different animals. Tank size, sending unit, etc, would model specific, even the tank itself is different. I was rereading the original post and something stuck out to me. The Eddie Bauer Edition emblem being on the trunk. The first gen (2001-2005) Sport Trac's weren't offered in an EB Edition. Hopefully she gets the right part!

Yes, I saw that on her original post, but I treated her problem with general advice. People often post to the wrong forum.