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Gears or locker?

2001ExpSport

Elite Explorer
Joined
July 23, 2000
Messages
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City, State
Chicago, Il
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Sport
Next month I will be purchasing one of the two listed above. I'm looking for opinions as to which may be a better choice.

First one is a set of 4.10 gears, I am running 3.73 right now with 33's and it seems ok. I'm interested in getting it closer to stock with 33's.

Secondly is a rear locker, I am not sure what is the best. Some say the powertrax is good, but I've also heard they tend to break quickly.

Price is a major factor. I'm not sure how much gears are or where to get them. Secondly I want to install these myself.

So, if you've had experience with this stuff or wether one will be better than the other in the long run let me know.

Thanks guys.
 



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From personnal experience. 3.73 to 4.10's is not much. almost not noticable. . . especially for $1000 installed. and it still wont be back to stock with 29" tires, although yes, it will be closer.

I would go with a powertrax - it is all the difference in the world between open and a locker while off-road. I have yet to hear of a powertrax no-slip breaking. Also, I think you would be in over your head very easily trying to install gears on your own.
 






Advice: Get both at the same time. Since you'll have the diff apart when you install the gears, install a locker while you're in there. The only exception is a lunchtime locker like the Powertrax, which installs in your present carrier and doesn't require you to reset the gear lash. But I'd go ahead with lower gears since you're running 33's. I, like many others, run 4.56 with 33's and it works great -- no problem traveling on the highway. I had 4.10 gears with my 33's for awhile before going with 4.56, and it just doesn't quite cut it. If you're going to go through the trouble of installing new gears, go with 4.56.

I use a Detroit locker in the rear, and am very satisfied with it. It's the strongest locker on the market, and you'll probably break everything else before it goes south on you. They are rather expensive though, about $500. You get what you pay for.

As far as the gears themselves, go with a premium brand, don't go with the cheapest you can get, they tend to be noisy and won't last as long. You can buy good gears at many places, I'd suggest someplace that has a good reputation, like Randy's Ring & Pinion, Reider Racing, etc, they advertise in the 4X4 mags. As far as price, my front and rear ring and pinion sets cost about $225 each, so $500 total.

The bottom line is that installing gears and lockers tends to be rather expensive, no matter which way you go. It's a big investment, but one that is well worth it, I think.

As far as installing everything yourself, that all depends on your skill level. There is an art to setting gear lash correctly, so be advised. Not that you can't do it yourself, but be forewarned, you don't just bolt everything up and slap the cover on. I had an very experienced 4X guy do mine, and am very glad I did.

I'd suggest doing as much research as you can before you buy anything, then you have a better chance at being totally satisfied.
 






Ok, can I lend some advice here???:cool:



If your a pretty good mechanic and you have common sense and patience you can do it. If your doing just a gear swap with no locker or l.s. its pretty easy. If your doing a gear swap with locker I would let a mechanic do it but ask to watch. Thats what I did. Setting gears with a locker installed also, you have to watch your backlash settings.

See heres an example: I first had a detroit locker in the rear of mine and decided on doing an ARB locker in the rear. I had to change my backlash settings just from changing lockers.
 






I'd like to goto 4.56's but they aren't available for the front on the 2001. Highest is 4.10 and if that isn't much of a difference then I will get the locker.

I want a locker that is pavement friendly, but will aslo take a beating on the trail. I do tend to get quite rough.

I've already lost my A/C, one radiator and other small nickel and dimers. If the powertrax will hold up, I'll get that, but if the detroit is not street friendly then I won't get that.

I have a pretty good mechanical background and pretty good knowledge of Explorers. As for the backlash, it takes practice and plenty of gear die.:rolleyes:

I appreciate the advice guys.
 






if your going to plop down a grand for either gears or locker, or 500 for each, spend the money and get a rear ARB. i dont have one in the ranger (i wish i did though), but im thinking of getting one in my Jeep. ive never heard anything bad about them.

600 for the locker, 200 or so for the compressor, and then how ever much it is to have someone install it, but you could probabally do it your self, i wouldnt know.

if you can get the money, ARB would be the way to go because you can have open and fully locked. JMO though.
 






I am not sure how much experance the other people who have replied to this post have. I work for a dealership. I have setup many rear axles and front axles. And still I use the service manual. There are MANY things to look for in setting up a axle. How much pinion depth can make the gears noisey or quiet. How many shims you use for the carrier bearings can affect your pinion to ring gear depth. If you have not setup a axle before then I would strongly suggest you take it somewere and have it done. It might cost alot, but in the long run you will be alot happier, with the lack of noise when setup properly and the quality of work they will do. I have installed a Detroit EZ Locker in my front Dana 35. You don't have to adjust pinion depth for this peticular install. So if you can understand the directions and have some mechanical tallent then you can do this. But other items like a Auburn limited slip, it replaces the carrier. So then you have to transfer the ring gear. When this is installed I would check ring gear backlash, and pinion depth. To sum up what I have said. It you have the know how to set gears up properly then do it to it. But if you don't then I would have someone else do it. Just my two cents. Heck if you lived closer I would do it for ya!


I hope this clears some things up for ya!

Eric:)
 






I personally don't feel up to chaning gears myself, but I would be able to tackle the powertrax or ARB install. So far from what I've heard I am leaning towards the locker. When I have more "spare" money to do the job right with the gears I'll do it then.
 






I know I'm in the minority with this suggestion but I say save your money and do it right.

Front: Buy a whole front diff from a boneyard with 4.10's in it (got mine for $200), buy a powertrax no slip and install it in the diff with 4.10's. Sell your old front diff.

Rear: Have 4.10's and an ARB installed

That's it, you'll be done with your truck. It will go pretty much anywhere with that setup. You may have to get used to the front locker but that's peanuts compared to it's benefits :D
 






I'm gonna provide an alternative to the powertrax: The Eaton posi that I have in mine. I love it! It's performance is pretty comparable to the ptrax, with some differences. Here are the main points:

1) about $100 cheaper. Mine was about $300 through west coast differentials.
2) doesn't lock up as often in corners on the street, making it more city friendly
3) locks up smoothly and invisibly most of the time
4) sometimes will unlock at very very high loads. it has only failed me at times when I was hung on the rear diff and the rear wheels couldn't get me out anyway.

Besides those 2 times that I was hung on my diff, it has never failed me (not that it failed me then). It gave my 2wd the ability to keep up with stock 4x4s on most trails.
 


















Has anyone ever actually put 4.56's in a 2nd gen?
 












Great! Thanks soup, I'll look into that.
 






Doesn't that article say that he has a D35 front with an ARB? I thought they weren't offered yet for the front?
 






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