Getting Serious about 2nd Gen Live Axle Conversion

[Jason_25]

After having my mechanic examine the front end of my truck and having him tell me it's basically falling apart I have decided that the IFS isn't up to the task for even the light amount of wheeling that I do.

So........I went and spoke with the local 4x4 shop, Extreme Ofrroad. He gave me a very nice quote on a solid axle Dana 44 conversion with leaf springs. Still, it's a little much for what I can afford. So I am buying the parts and doing alot of the work myself.

This is what I was thinking of doing:
Getting an early bronco Dana 44 as cheaply as possible, and then give it a thorough "tune up", and adding 4.10's, and maybe a cheap posi-lok or something. Then I will weld on spring perches for it. I will then convert it to disc brakes if I don't luck out with one already equipped. I will also get a guy I know to take measurements and fab me some leaf spring hangers. I will also need to invest in a new steering system. I was considering a fully hydraulic steering system if I can find one with a return-to-center feel. I will let the guy at extreme offroad cut away the IFS, install the new axle and hook up the steering with as little downtime as possible. Plus he will take care of the springs and shocks. I will also need to change the 8.8's axle shafts to the 44's bolt pattern, switch to the manual t-case, and mod my driveshaft (or replace it).

This may come as a surprise to some of you but I just see no reason any longer for doing a $2000+ IFS suspension lift when I can do a SAS almost as cheap. I am not looking for extreme rockcrawling or mudbogging ability, I am mainly just looking to be able to run along with the big boys and to have a reliable setup at the same time.

What I need from you guys is advice. What do you think about all this? Do you have any suggestions for me? I need all the help I can get and rest assured I will be researching this like crazy. Sorry for the long post but I wanted to be as descriptive as possible.

 

[RFR2212]

Sounds like ya got a good start... All I can say is research research research! Remember, yer probly gonna a nice bit of lift outta this as well, with how the springs are gonna be, to keep them from hitting the frame and what not...

Random thought... why not see if the springs can be mounted on the outside of the frame, instead of under the frame.. if ya wanna keep it a bit lower... Just a random thought, but off hand I don't know what the exact lines of the frame are like... so I could be completely wrong on this...
Pete

 

[TarHeel085]

hmm you thought about eliptical instead of full leafs. whatever you do im gonna be goin down to New Bern once you get it done. thats gonna be one HELL of a setup! but your gonna have to live with the fact you may need about 8" of lift to clear that sucker. when you lookin to start it?

 

[Jason_25]

RFR2212- Thanks for the input. I will suggest that to him at our next meeting.

Tarheel-Don't know about elliptical, I will need to research. Whatever it is it needs to be economical. I'm actually going to start collecting parts next week. My hope is that I can get everything together so it can be done in a weekend with minimal down time. BTW, he said that he should be able to get it done with about 6 inches of lift. But with pete's idea I may be able to get it even lower (sounds funny saying that).

 

[TDG]

Sounds like a plan but why go with 4.10s? With the amount of lift you get you will probably being running at least 33"s and if you chose to move up to 35"s you would probably be better served with going to 4.56s or 4.88s and save some money down the road.

 

[TarHeel085]

hah 33's, hell he will prob run 35's or 36's with that kinda setup!

 

[Jason_25]

Also a good idea. But I really don't wanna go from 20 MPG to 12 MPG. I need to see how much the gear change would hurt it. Also, If I was gonna regear the rear I may as well put a decent full carrier replacement locker in there as well.

Let me state that with my income this may take me a while. If work decided to make me a waiter this summer though I will be set!

Tarheel: I will be running 33's because I want to fully be able to stuff the tires for maximum flex.

 

[TarHeel085]

you a busboy Jason? oh i see.

 

[CoryL]

Leafs are definately the cheapest route.

However I believe that coils could be done for around the same price.

I wouldn't bother with a 1/4 elliptical front end. A lot more setup is required.

There are orbital valves with return to centers. I just saw on in my Northern Tool Catalog.

 

[Jason_25]

Thanks Cory. Do you know if the full hydro steering systems are street legal?

 

[RFR2212]

Jason, I think hydro steering depends where ya live... although with the return to center orbital valve makes it alot safer, and closer to the legality thing
Pete

 

[Jason_25]

I will check with the DMV tomorrow about it. If I go this route, I was thinking of adding a pressure gauge to the line and running it up into the cab to make absolutely sure I am not losing fluid. I would hate to die so young.

 

[Jason_25]

I have decided I want to change the 44's lug pattern instead of convert the 8.8 to the 44's pattern. Is this possible? If so, is there enough room at the end of the axle shaft to drill the 5 on 4.5 pattern or would I need to get new shafts? Could Moser Engineering do this for me? Sorry for the questions but have alot going though my head.

 

[CoryL]

I think Dynatrack could sell you the conversion parts, but knowing them, it would be $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

It would be cheaper and easier to have Moser to make you the new rear shafts and have the rotors drilled to 5 on 5.5.

 

[GJarrett]

Originally posted by Jason_25
I will be running 33's because I want to fully be able to stuff the tires for maximum flex.

Jason, if you really mean that statement, you need to take a real good serious look at your framerail. The precise reason many of us with new models haven't already done this conversion is that our newmodel framerails do NOT have the "hoop" over the front axle that early model Explorers have to clear an axle.

If you want the ability to "stuff" your tires with an SAS, then you will have to lift it 8" or so in order to keep the straight axle from hitting your framerail when it stuffs. For mudbogging that's great - the more lift the merrier - but during rockcrawling, I have been in offcamber situations that would positively terrify me with another half foot of suspension lift (and most likely roll me).

Granted, the SAS will give you much better flex than the IFS, but you are still going to be sitting way up there.

Do you want 8" of lift? Maybe so, but I just thought I'd help you think out the ramifications of your thoughts in case you had not considered that. A SAS conversion is one of the best mods you can plan for on the road to becoming a BigDawg, just be very sure that you learn all of the consequences of the project before diving into it.

 

[Jason_25]

Gerald, thanks for the info. Actually, I will not even consider going above 6" of total lift. This whole conversion is dependent upon whether that amount of lift ( or less) could be achieved. More than 6" is too much for me. If the suspension will collide with the frame rails, we will just have to put some bumpstops on it. I don't want a monster, just something different.

 

[soupbone]

I bet it will work. You just gonna have to tweak the engine cross member or fab a new one and yea the bumpstops...... swaping the rack and pinion for a steering box will be interesting too. just clone Ricks setup heh...

 

[JoshC]

Man, very nice. There is some good info on here. You should make some cash just selling your old parts for spares. I'm interested in seeing how this turns out, maybe i could copy your set up some time.

Happy trails!!

 

[taxx]

just posting to get the updates since I am seriously considering doing this in a year or so.

I do think you will be looking at more than a weekend of down time though. And can you make the front axle the same lug pattern as the rear so you don't have to buy new wheels?

 

[CoryL]

The only way I could see getting the front pattern to a 5 on 4.5 would be buying the parts from Dynatrac.

That will be expensive. Probably cheaper to get new rear axleshafts and have the rotors redrilled.