Girlfriend will get me subs for anniversary!

[leenjen]

maybe....
it think you'll be starving that subwoofer with only 480 watts rms. let us know how it sounds. eventually you'll want to get a more powerful amp. clipping can seriously harm a subwoofer. so if that amp isnt putting out enough power, be careful not to crank it up.

 

[FitzMatt]

Damn that's what I've been hearing....

I dont have the $$$ to get a 750+W amp.

AM I pretty screwed or what?

 

[FitzMatt]

Originally posted by leenjen
maybe....
it think you'll be starving that subwoofer with only 480 watts rms. let us know how it sounds. eventually you'll want to get a more powerful amp. clipping can seriously harm a subwoofer. so if that amp isnt putting out enough power, be careful not to crank it up.

Come to think of it, I don't think that amp can be bridged to one channel, its 2 separate pairs of channels. Meaning 240 is my rms, not 480, which also means I am SOL. :frustrate

 

[leenjen]

Originally posted by FitzMatt


Come to think of it, I don't think that amp can be bridged to one channel, its 2 separate pairs of channels. Meaning 240 is my rms, not 480, which also means I am SOL. :frustrate

the 1208 has dual 4 ohm voice coils. each voice coil will be on a different bridged channel. one on the front and one on the rear. then it will be bridged @ 4 ohms mono. so you will get 480 watts (240 to each voice coil).

 

[FitzMatt]

SWEET, is that going to be enough Leenjen, or are we still clipping?

We are still having confusion with which box to get. I ran 2.83ft^3 box that you showed me by the Audiobahn guy and he said it would sound cool but that the slot (port) should be about half the size. The slot dimensions are: 3 x 12.5 x 15.5, he was saying it would sound best 3 x 8 x 15.5 instead.

There is a lot of discrepancy about the right box because boxplot and other progams give us an optimum volume of about a 1ft^3 while you and the Audiobahn spec sheet says about 2.5.

Can you help me out man?

Matt

 

[leenjen]

well, you're going to be running it at much less then half of the rated rms. so i think it might be ok for a while, but you'll want a more powerful amp soon.

 

[FitzMatt]

What is the point of the amp bypass harness kit? We were planning out the install job today and we were wondering what the kit that I bought is for, can't we just not hook up the stock amp and sub to the new deck?? What is the bypass for?

This subwoofer is SOOOO BAS ASS!!! I love it, cannot wait to hear it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Matt

 

[leenjen]

if you are using the stock wiring from the headunit to the door speakers, then you'll use the amp bypass harness. if you dont bypass the amp, then the speakers will still be powered by the factory am instead of the aftermarket headunit. the headunit is more powerful and has better sound quality than the stock amp.

 

[FitzMatt]

After countless failures of finding a box anywhere in a store, I ended up going with a box from Speakerhole. I ordered it today, hopefully will arrive by the weekend.

That was the last piece of the puzzle so whenever the box gets in, it will be time for the install! I'm excited, this sub is just sitting in my room taunting me. I can't wait to hear that thing pound!

So does anyone have words of advice (or warning) for me before tearin up the Explorer? Everything will be exchanged except for the door speakers. Are there any troublespots such as the dash or right rear plastic panel as well as any tips to make them easier?

Thanks

Matt

 

[leenjen]

go to wal-mart and buy 3 or 4 cans of rubberized undercoating (it's in the auto section in a red can by the auto spray paint). take the plastic panel off the rear hatch. spray the inside part of the plastic. 3 cans should do, but 4 might be better. let it dry and cure for a couple days (you dont want to attch it wet and have to deal with that smell for the next three days). then re-attach it and you wont have any rattles coming from there. if you side plastic panels start to rattle, you can do them too (mine didnt, so your's might not either).

good luck

 

[FitzMatt]

I already broke 2 of those plastic pop-in screws....what a pain!

Any advice with those things because last time we tried to take the back panel off, I snapped the heads off of two of those plastic screws and stopped right there, I didnt wanna finish off the whole bunch of them. Do you just have to get under there with a flathead or what....or is there a special tool I dont have yet....

Matt

 

[leenjen]

you can try using a stron butter knife and sliding it behind the panel next to one of those plastic clips. then slowy pry it up so the clip doesnt break. it'll be easier if you use a panel removal tool like the ones that crutchfield sells. if you have to replace a bunch of those clips, you can buy a bag of them from the ford dealer. i think it's like $8-$10 for a bag. and there are a lot of them in the bag.

 

[FitzMatt]

Haha!! Maybe I'll just break em all and put in a bunch of new ones! We'll see if I can master taking them out before i get to the last one. Thanks

 

[Explorer94GV]

they sell those things at the ford dealers LOL i broke 1 but im not paying 8 bucks to get a bag when i need one damn plug.

 

[FitzMatt]

The Pioneer DEH-P6000 is in, the Audiobahn single 12" is in, and the Alpine v12 series 4 chan amp is in!! Im stoked, it hits and sounds good! Gives a good back massage too!

One thing: the sub isnt hitting high bass freq notes very well, I'd say it cuts off at about 100Hz. I've adjusted the amp so the crossover is at 200Hz and its still not hitting notes that I know are well around 100Hz. Any ideas?

Also on the amp is a choice for the input modes on each of the 2 sets of channels (1+2 and 3+4) are options for ( 1, ST, and 1+2) for the 1/2 channel and ( 3, ST, 3+4) for the 3/4 channel. Again these options are for the input mode, but I dont know where they should be set.

Thanks, Im so happy this thing is in, it bumps great.

Matt

 

[leenjen]

that crossover is set waaaaay too high. you could possibly damage the subwoofer. it should be set around 80-90Hz. some people set theirs even lower if they have good component sets.

 

[leenjen]

Originally posted by FitzMatt

Also on the amp is a choice for the input modes on each of the 2 sets of channels (1+2 and 3+4) are options for ( 1, ST, and 1+2) for the 1/2 channel and ( 3, ST, 3+4) for the 3/4 channel. Again these options are for the input mode, but I dont know where they should be set.

i'm not exactly sure what you mean.
the subwoofer should be wired to the amp with one voice coil bridged on the front channels and the other bridged on the rear channels. if you dont have it set up like that, then you're really not getting enough power to the sub.

 

[BTRs X]

I agree with Leenjen......you need to set that x-over under 100Hz. I vary mine between 50Hz-80Hz depending on what Im listening too. Also bridge either side of that amp and run one side to each coil of the sub. NEVER GO ABOVE 100HZ ON YOUR SUB CROSSOVER.....most sub manuals warn against that. If you are missing that sound you need to get a component set that can go deep with the mids...I have used Kicker, JL, and Audiobahn components and they all can cover the lower frequency range.

 

[FitzMatt]

The crossover is set at 100Hz, I just put it up to see if that was why I wasnt getting the higher bass frequencies, but it didnt help. So is it just the mids in the door that arent hitting those notes? I would swear the notes Im missing should be hitting through the sub...

 

[leenjen]

those midbass frquencies should be handled by a component set, midbass driver, or good coaxials