going for the gusto... | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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going for the gusto...

Psych. you do need to put the bolts back in if you don't want to be slammed. I put mine in and adjusted them up to the 3" mark.

Good luck FastAZZ4.0 (if you haven't already finished) with dropping your Sport, I'm looking foward to seeing how it looks with this stance.

I will let you gus know wht my alignment readins are prior to the correction....if I ever get off my butt and have it done. Maby this week...

Anyway, I'm off to play with my AWD Talon in the snow/ice that we got today. Catch you guys on the flip.
 



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i'm really sorry that i'm so dumb. You take out adjuster bolt, flip the adjuster itself, and put the bolt back in and screw it in (clockwise), do you know how many turns, or even in the neighborhood, to get it to 3 inches?
 






Well you have the procedure down now, but you will just have to test and check to find the number of turns. It could actually be different for every truck as the tension on the bar can create irregularities in each one. What one number of twists does for one X may be completly different for another. Metal that is stressed changes....that's about the best way I can explain that.
 






I am just wondering if I am looking at like a turn and a half or like 10 or 20 turns for an inch or two. I haven't played with the bolts at all so I dont know anything.
 






Try about four or five at first (the first time I dropped it my bolts came all the way out with very few turns). It really doesn't take much to bring it down and 1". If you want about 2" just take them out, and if you want 3" or more use the method that I described. :)


P.S. Would a few of you rate this thread so that I can see if this is helping all of you as much as I think it is. I see that it has almost 600 views, so I was just wondering if you guys would rate it. Thanks
 






i've noticed that the rear end of my EX sits about a 1/2" lower than the front, stock.

is this common problem caused by the rear shocks, or the leafsprings? (my 2dr has mono leafs)

I won't be upgrading the shocks until about a month after I lower it. I want to make sure I use the right size lowering blocks on the rear to make it sit level(after the shock upgrade).

I plan on dropping the front 3". so, I guess if the sag is caused by the leaf, i'll just have to use 2" blocks on the rear and have it sit a 1/2" higher than the front. If it's usually the shocks causing this, I'll go ahead w/ a 3" block and put up with the sag until i get new shocks.
 






problem is that you have monoleafs. Get a leafpack from a 4-door and it should fix your problem.
 






Ben, I replied to your email and kinda already said this but...

Don't waste money getting a leaf pack for a truck you are going to lower anyway. Just drop the front that extra 1/2" to compensate for it. A few turns on a bolt is alot better than a few hundred dollars for a leaf pack.
 






Godfather,

I attempted to lower my '01 Sport today. The block kit I bought has the wrong size u bolts. Do you know what size I need? Also, based on what your saying, I can just remove the adjuster bolts to lower the front. I am looking for a 2 inch drop all around. The '01 Sports have a multi-leaf setup in the rear.

Thanks
 






well i tried unsuccessfully today to lower my front end by turning around the torsion bar adjuster. so i am going to go to aoutozone and use their puller. mine doesn't have the ability to be offset exactly half way like the one in your pic. but i am still confused as to how it really lowers it an additonal 3". also how did you notch out your crossmember? did you use an acetolene torch or something? kind of daring if so seeing that the fuel lines are only about 6" away. well let me know, i am going to go and get the tool. hopefully you can give me a hand via computer.
 






Plasma cutter for the crossmember.

As I stated earlier: If you look at the offset of the adjuster you will see that it sits more to the bottom, when you flip it the offset is more to the top allowing it to rotate a little further down. That's the quick version. Email me for an expanded version.

The U-Bolts will work, it just takes thought, and brute force. I have the generic ones on mine right now.

Yes, removing the bolts will give about a 2" drop.

If I missed anything let me know and I will answer it tomorrow.
 






If I go to autozone will I need to ask for any specific blocks for the rear? Or is there only 1 set that they have? do you have part #'s?
 






I have seen the blocks and I think it is just one generic part. Look in the isle that says suspension and I think it is also the trailer hitch isle.
 






They have two and three inch blocks. The part number for the 3" ones is: 81335
 






Hey godfather, could you email me more explination into how you notched your cross member, like where, how, and why? I don't know much about suspension, but you've been a great help. My email is a0place0for0my0head@comcast.net , or you can just post on here. Thanks for all your help!
 






Sorry to those that emailed me this morning/today. I've been really busy and have not had time to reply, but I will try to do so tomorrow. You guys know I try to stay on top of these things, but I just haven't had time, and I am in serious need of sleep. Look for a reply late tomorrow (today for most of you), or wenesday.

Night all
 






Well,

I did it! I completed lowering my truck tonight. Here is a pic. It's not the greatest pic because I was in a hurry and didn't make sure the lighting and focus were set properly.

Dead Link Removed

I am getting my wheels and alignment tomorrow!
 






Looks really good Bill, do us a favor and post some new pics when you get the wheels on.

Did you have any problems with it?
 






Originally posted by Godfather 1138
Looks really good Bill, do us a favor and post some new pics when you get the wheels on.

Did you have any problems with it?

Actually, I could not get the ubolts that came with the blocks to work. They were off by about 2 inches once I got them around the rearend. I found some ubolts that fit around the rearend but were 9/16ths and would fit into the holes on the shock plate. So, I drilled the holes to 5/8s and everything bolted right up. The front was a sinch.
 



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Bill, what size blocks did you use, and how much did you drop the front? Did you flip the torsion bar adjuster?
 






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