Guys, I need some help PLEASE.

[Lankhimself]

First let me say that I am a long time reader of this site but I never really post that much. This site is fantastic and full of endless information that has helped me out in many a bind. I'm a regular over on ********* and I thought I'd post here with this sudden problem I'm having. Hopefully a member can chime in and shed light on my situation.

Anyway, here goes:


Upon opening my hood this evening for a simple weekly oil check, I find this:


That's right...coolant EVERYWHERE. Immediately I started to clean up the mess- the coolant had started to puddle everywhere, on top of the manifold, around the spark plug wires, etc. After wiping it all up, I started to check everything. In order for the coolant to start to puddle on top of the engine, it had to be blown around by the fan and wind coming into the engine. It couldn't be leaking out of my headgaskets since I just had those replaced, the upper radiator and lower radiator hoses were tight and dry, along with my thermostat housing. The overflow reservoir was presumably empty but didn't show a leak. Everything looked okay except for this area:

This area was soaking wet. I ran the engine up to normal temp and witnessed no dripping or dribbling of coolant. Then, I turned on my heat to low. Coolant started to quickly drip out of HERE:


I turned off the heat and the leaking stopped. I have no idea what the piece is called that the leaking is coming out of, but It's right above the heating/cooling accumulator on the passenger side. It's part of the bundle of hoses which includes the valve for recharging your AC. I pulled off the fitting on top of the piece that is leaking and the leaking got worse, the piece is that little "spark plug-like" wire sitting on top. I can take more pictures if it helps to diagnose my problem.

My engine is a 4.0 OHV if that helps.
Anyone that can help me out to stop this leak, please post and I thank you guys. I need my truck for commuting to school and it's the dead of winter so I'd prefer the heat on

EDIT: Holy hell, sorry about the massive pics. I'm used to forums that resize them automatically.

 

[IZwack]

If its plastic, maybe try removing it and epoxying whatever crack or hole that has developed?

 

[Donner]

One Winter, that same part on my previous vehicle froze and cracked. It had to be replaced. It only leaked when the heat was on, but the thermometer had to replaced too.

 

[mikeh44]

thats the heater control valve i would replace it asap i dont think that it is dealer only then it maybe try an auto parts store first

 

[Lankhimself]

thats the heater control valve i would replace it asap i dont think that it is dealer only then it maybe try an auto parts store first

Thanks my friend...easy to replace? Requires draining the radiator?

 

[96eb96]

Thanks my friend...easy to replace? Requires draining the radiator?

You don't have to drain the radiator and its real easy to replace. Make sure the system is cool and put a pan under the lines when you remove it. I suggest a motocraft dealer part. The after market ones leak after a while. It is not expensive, and you can ask your dealer for a discount, they often will go down on the price.

or go here: http://billdubetoyota.com/ -> parts
Heater control valve
part #:F87Z18495AA, but email them or call to be sure. Its like $15 bucks.

If you are in mass you will have it next day.

 

[Lankhimself]

Thanks a lot guys, I'll take care of this tomorrow, hopefully.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Have you checked any local auto parts stores like Autozone?

 

[Nocturnall]

I had that happen, it sprayed out of the side of it thought the truck was on fire with all the smoke. Got a new part from autozone for $30 I think, took 5mins to replace. Only lost maybe half a quart of anti freeze doing the change.

 

[Turdle]

Actually-
you can get a 5/8" double barbed nipple and splice the two coolant lines together with it, and plug the vacuum line--

you will not need that valve until the summer when you use the ac-

the valve prevents coolant from circulating into the heater core when the ac is switched on, increasing the cooling efficiency.

In fact, mine is bypassed and the ac still works fine. I think it adds just a bit of hot weather engine cooling capacity--
JMHO

 

[Benji-Man]

Whenever you replace it, I would suggest replacing the spring type hose clamps with the screw type. I've just seen alot of leaks from re-using the factory clamps.

 

[Lankhimself]

Whenever you replace it, I would suggest replacing the spring type hose clamps with the screw type. I've just seen alot of leaks from re-using the factory clamps.

I was planning on it. Way back when last year when I swapped out my T-stat, I replaced all the radiator hose clamps I removed with the metal spring clamps.

Thanks again for the help!

 

[alohamonte]

very easy to replace and part was less than $20 at advanced auto. first time changing it out and it took 15 minutes tops. only tool needed is pliers to open the clamps up. very little coolant will leak. be sure to burp the system afterwards.

 

[Lankhimself]

What would be the best way to "burp" the system?

 

[mbird97x]

Make the filler opening (radiator cap) the highest point of the entire cooling system. IE: jack up front end a bit.

 

[grufman]

Keep a close watch on the antifreeze level after the replacement. The cylinder heads are prone to crack when you run out of antifreeze.

 

[Nocturnall]

I ususally just run the truck with the radiator cap off for 20mins every morning for a few days to burp the system.