DRanger024
Member
- Joined
- October 2, 2010
- Messages
- 17
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Wisco
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '02 Ranger XLT 4x4
Alright guys (and gals?), I have a ‘99 XLS 4.0 OHV that for some reason cranks over a little longer on cold starts after I changed the spark plugs/wires. After it’s warmed up, it starts like normal every time. Once it sits long enough to cool down, the cycle repeats. I’ve searched and searched the forums and google for any clues as to what could be the issue to no avail.
When I bought this thing in spring of 2017, the young guy I bought it from had the bank 2 plugs out because he believed it had blown the cylinder 6 plug out of the head. I reinstalled all plugs(cyl 6 threaded in and tightened up just fine) and fired it up to drive it and make sure it ran through the gears. It ran very rough, check engine and abs lights came on. I bought it anyways as he had bought an ‘04 and wanted the money for Tech school. Later that day after I had trailered it home and got some good gas in it, I plugged my scan tool in to be greeted by a whopping 17 DTC’s! Two of which were cylinders 4 and 5 misfires. The plugs were fouled with oil/fuel on these cylinders from a combination of leaking valve covers and not firing. This is where the copper plugs come into play not wanting to spend too much cash on something that may have larger underlying issues.
Needless to say, put the copper plugs in and it ran great up until it got cold out and the fuel pump pooped the bed. Replaced the pump/strainer and filter and it ran great until the plug/wire change to autolite platinum plugs and autolite premium wires. It fires up after about 4-5 seconds of cranking and idles a little rough. Idle cleared up after a few seconds and it ran like a top, no misses and very smooth. At this point I dismissed the long crank at first startup. Happy with the job done and the drivers side wires routed how they were from the factory, I dropped the hood and parked it outside. Ever since, it has started hard cold. It doesn’t matter how many times I cycle the key before I turn it over. It doesn’t matter if it’s -14F outside or 30F.
In the last couple months I’ve done/replaced;
Cam synchronizer and sensor
-reason: death squeak from original synchro
-September ‘17
Thermostat and radiator cap
-reason: cap was leaking
-Early December ‘17
Fuel pump/strainer and filter
-reason: pump died, might as well do it right
-Early December ‘17
PCV valve and vacuum line inspection/cleaned MAF
-reason: diagnosing high fuel trim values/poor MPG and P0171/P0174 DTC’s
-late December ‘17 single digit temps
Spark plugs and wires
-reason: had put copper core plugs in when I bought it in spring of 2017 for diagnostic reasons(cheaper) and it had the original wires in it from 1999
-late December 2017. This is where the hard cold start issue started
Intake plenum/throttle body gaskets and injector manifold gasket, checked fuel pressure
-reason: high fuel trims, P0171/P0174 all other possible causes eliminated - problem solved, fuel pressure reads above 60 psi and doesn’t bleed down
-01/05/2018
I was hoping the plenum leak was part of the reason it was starting hard. Fixed plenum and still having hard start/long cranking on cold starting. I’m completely baffled as to how a simple plug/wire change could do this. I have yet to try swapping back to the old plugs then old wires. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Rick
When I bought this thing in spring of 2017, the young guy I bought it from had the bank 2 plugs out because he believed it had blown the cylinder 6 plug out of the head. I reinstalled all plugs(cyl 6 threaded in and tightened up just fine) and fired it up to drive it and make sure it ran through the gears. It ran very rough, check engine and abs lights came on. I bought it anyways as he had bought an ‘04 and wanted the money for Tech school. Later that day after I had trailered it home and got some good gas in it, I plugged my scan tool in to be greeted by a whopping 17 DTC’s! Two of which were cylinders 4 and 5 misfires. The plugs were fouled with oil/fuel on these cylinders from a combination of leaking valve covers and not firing. This is where the copper plugs come into play not wanting to spend too much cash on something that may have larger underlying issues.
Needless to say, put the copper plugs in and it ran great up until it got cold out and the fuel pump pooped the bed. Replaced the pump/strainer and filter and it ran great until the plug/wire change to autolite platinum plugs and autolite premium wires. It fires up after about 4-5 seconds of cranking and idles a little rough. Idle cleared up after a few seconds and it ran like a top, no misses and very smooth. At this point I dismissed the long crank at first startup. Happy with the job done and the drivers side wires routed how they were from the factory, I dropped the hood and parked it outside. Ever since, it has started hard cold. It doesn’t matter how many times I cycle the key before I turn it over. It doesn’t matter if it’s -14F outside or 30F.
In the last couple months I’ve done/replaced;
Cam synchronizer and sensor
-reason: death squeak from original synchro
-September ‘17
Thermostat and radiator cap
-reason: cap was leaking
-Early December ‘17
Fuel pump/strainer and filter
-reason: pump died, might as well do it right
-Early December ‘17
PCV valve and vacuum line inspection/cleaned MAF
-reason: diagnosing high fuel trim values/poor MPG and P0171/P0174 DTC’s
-late December ‘17 single digit temps
Spark plugs and wires
-reason: had put copper core plugs in when I bought it in spring of 2017 for diagnostic reasons(cheaper) and it had the original wires in it from 1999
-late December 2017. This is where the hard cold start issue started
Intake plenum/throttle body gaskets and injector manifold gasket, checked fuel pressure
-reason: high fuel trims, P0171/P0174 all other possible causes eliminated - problem solved, fuel pressure reads above 60 psi and doesn’t bleed down
-01/05/2018
I was hoping the plenum leak was part of the reason it was starting hard. Fixed plenum and still having hard start/long cranking on cold starting. I’m completely baffled as to how a simple plug/wire change could do this. I have yet to try swapping back to the old plugs then old wires. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Rick