hatch rattling...

[springtensi0n]

i just installed my new subs, (2 kicker solo baric 12" L7's running off of 1400 watts, ported.) and the only thing that seems to be rattling is my back hatch. what's the best way to stop this? as far as sound deadener goes, is dynamat really worth the price? i've seen several others, but i dont want to make a bad investment. and as far as taking off the back hatch door skin, is there any tricks to it? it doesn't seem to work the same as the fronts do...

 

[white96x]

good luck trying to fix any rattles-Dynamat will definately help, but most likely, nothing you use will ever stop ALL your rattles-i have the same problem and i'm "Dynamatted Out."
As far as back hatch "skin" i'm not sure i know what you are talking about?

 

[expo5.0]

LOL, its gonna rattle and thats the bottom line. that said dynamat is overpriced for what it does. imo your best off using one of its discounted competitors and not hoping for too much- with your set-up there will be rattles no matter what you do

 

[Hartman]

Best thing you can do is slow the rattles down, there's really no way to stop them altogether. First, put sound deadening material behind the hatch door panel, and leave it a little overlapped so that the panel rests on the deadener instead of metal. Also, while the panel is off, make sure that all the moving parts in the hatch are not loose, that'll cause the most rattling. Another thing you can do is put a small piece of weatherstripping behind your rear wiper. I did this, and it make a big difference because my wiper was banging against the hatch and making lots of noice.

One other thing is to avoid putting things in the rear storage compartment, because they'll rattle all to hell.

Good luck.

 

[expo5.0]

i guess i'll give you the whole run down of little things to do also because i'm feeling nice and i'm bored.

besides using the dynamat substitute you will want to get some foam tape or the little rubber things they sell for on the bottom of tables and crap so they don't scratch wood (i prefer foam 3m tape). your gonna want to put that all around behind your license plate, behind your wiper (as hartman said), where they glass touches the little rubber things (they are supposed to do this, but it works a lot better if you add to them), then you will also want to wrap your lock knob in some kind of tape (probably electrical) so that its rattling slows down as well. then you will want to direct your attention to the interior where you will want to add some tape to the little door for the jack storage thing and make sure everything in there is tightened down really well, then make sure there is nothing in your cargo pocket on the other side (or if you have premium audio make sure it isn't rattling). after you do all those things you will still have rattles, but you'll be on your own from there.

 

[MO_GUY]

the hatch will always rattle no matter what, just get used to it

 

[Defiantguy]

ehh u don't hear it on the inside so "out of sight, out of mind"

 

[springtensi0n]

thanks for the info, i can definatly hear it on the inside, so it is a big issue for me... anyways, thanks again

 

[Garth]

How about replacing those little rubber things with some new ones.

 

[member02]

weee

ok, fun issue!

two things rattle here:

1. window

2. Hatch panel (this the 'skin' you mention?)

(1) the window CANNOT be fixed EXCEPT by permanently gluing it in place and never opening it. This is my only solution, I've tried EVERYTHING, even got down to silicone sealant all around to make the seal tighter and harder so the window wouldn't move... didnt help much...

I"m prolly going to permanently glue it in place with sealants soon...

(2) this sounds horrible from the inside, more so than the window, its the sound of rattling metal (possibly what you hear) I put 4 layers of dynamat extreme equivalent (dead skin, and eDead V2) helped lower the noise to a lower toned rattle, but still rattled. the only solution here and it works, is to get expandofoam and use about 5 can all around inside, but be careful! you do not want to over do it and morph the metal!!

Also, removing the hatch panel is hard, I broke mine in the process, there is a tiny screw you can barely access through the lock area, must be unscrewed or you will snap that peice. the rest snaps off, no other screws...

PROBLEM, re-installing the panel... mine's been off for 3 months, cannot get it back on... you need about 3 people to help acheive this...

 

[gatorpatric0]

Ive completly lined my rear-panel with a type of apohlstry(sp) foam. I CANNOT get the panel back in the right position. its about 2 inches of up and to the left or something like that. Ive got it on so where you cant tell that it isnt on right when the door is closed. Me and two of my huge friends tried to muscle it in place and it just couldnt go. BUT IT SURE AS HELL DOESNT RATTLE.