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Head Install

So how clean does the deck surface have to be for the head gaskets to have a good seal?
Currently it’s not very clean but I could try and clean it with a soft stainless wire wheel.
I’m just worried about cleaning the deck and then it not being even afterwards.

Or am I just overthinking it?

Thanks
 



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Cleaned deck with soft stainless bristle wheel on a drill, seemed to be ok
Laid gaskets on block, put heads on block, soaked bolts in oil and threaded them in finger tight. I was going to put the lower intake on as well but it looks like I should put the timing cover on first. Once that is on I can lay lower gasket and intake on motor thread those bolts in finger tight also.

I have a buddy coming over tomorrow to give me a hand torquing down the heads and lower intake.
 






So far I have removed the upper intake. All elec connectors and vacuum lines are labeled, AC, power steering and alt removed, fan & shroud removed. Upper EGR nut removed still have to get it at the bottom.

A couple of things broke. 1 of the mounting ears on the PS pump split in half, that was weird. And 1 of the water pump pulley hub flanges broke off while loosening the fan nut. I had a prybar wedged in there to hold the pulley. I know I should have used the proper tool but I am planning on replacing the water pump and power steering pump anyways so not a huge deal. PB blaster and mapp has worked with a cheater bar on the EGR nut.

I just did the water pump this weekend. I used this and it was easy peasy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00STSCH74/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 






Going to try and get the exhaust off today. I have new manifolds coming, I want to remove heads with old manifolds attached if possible so I can remove manifold bolts off the vehicle using mapp gas. I know the bolts like to break.

Ordered a ton of parts too. Mostly gaskets. Going to remove crank pulley so I can replace timing cover gasket as well.

I have bolts stuck in the manifolds. I used these to clamp the new Y pipe in place: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4TML46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 






Just got inside drivers side manifold to y pipe bolt out with pb blaster and just being careful.
Rounded the outside driver’s so I have to take the air chisel to it
My least favorite tool
But I can’t get cutoff wheel in there not enough room

What about dipstick tube, can driver’s head come off around it? Can it removed easily without breaking it?

Thanks

Take a Dremel with the HD cut-off wheel. Remove the plastic fender liner and there is room to get to the outside bolts. I had to do this.
 












Heads and lower intake installed. I didn’t set a timer but i’m sure it was under 15 minutes
RTV squeezed out in all the right places
 






Yesterday i heated exhaust manifolds to remove the 2 bolts i could not remove in the truck. Cleaned up all the bolts with wire wheel. Also wire wheeled the coolant tube/thermostat housing since it got too hot and all the paint flaked off.

Today i installed exhaust manifolds with gaskets, new plugs, new wires, new coil pack. Upper intake, new egr valve and egr tube. Connected all wiring and vacuum hoses.
Installed new P/S lines and pump, AC compressor and alternator and bracket with new idler and tensioner.

Rockauto boned me, sent me a thermostat that looks like it is for a Peterbilt it is like 10x the size of the stock one.
Bummed because i wanted to get the cooling system buttoned up but i can get a thermostat locally and just put that in tomorrow.

I did start the truck with no belt no coolant etc just to see if it would fire, and it did and i shut it down right away.

Obviously not calling this a success yet but made good progress today
Hope to get it running real soon
 






Got correct thermostat today, 2 O2 sensors and a new Y pipe. I bought a bolt and spring kit for the Y pipe but the bolts were too small. Luckily I was able to source some M12 x 1.75 bolts and washers. The bolt heads were kinda big and I was worried about them clearing the flanges. They just did, impact socket was too thick reg socket just fit. They were made by Lawson, for future reference.

Installed thermostat, AC hoses, finally figured out that evap stuff, installed AC condenser and radiator, fan, hoses, etc. changed oil. Buttoned up a couple things, cotter pin on pitman arm to drag link, new crank bolt, etc filled radiator.

Front wheels were off the ground for the start up because all new P/S parts so I had ignition key in one hand and a gallon of trans fluid in the other haha
Plus burping the cooling system at the same time.

Started truck, good oil pressure right away, filling P/S system and turning wheel back and forth, looking for leaks, etc. no CEL at that time. Some smoke but it was anti seize burning off the exh manifold to Y bolts. Let it run for 10-15 min, thermostat opened, then backed her outside for the first time in a while. Took her for a decent ride, no highway yet just back roads 35-40 mph and she drove really nice. I was nervous at first, kept waiting for CEL or noises or explosions and total fail. But she ran pretty good, threw a CEL for about 10 seconds, then went out.

It looks like I am having a TPS issue, which actually makes sense but other than a slight oil weep under the front crank seal that I have to keep an eye on, i’ll tighten up the exhaust manifolds tomorrow.

At this time it does not appear that any disastrous mistakes were made, once I replace the TPS I think I can tentatively call this a success. Coolant temps were more consistent than I have seen, between the N and O and just stayed right there the whole time. Very nice to see that.

I would like to give thanks to all the members here who helped me with all my dumb questions.
Much appreciated
 






Bad exhaust leak, took it to muffler shop they said cracked pass side exhaust manifold, and wished me good luck.
Got Dorman exhaust manifold today, imstalled and leak is 99% gone. No more fumes in cab. Still a slight tick and it may be the driver’s side manifold.
I noticed that rockauto sent me 2 exhaust manifold gaskets with my pass side manifold, and they were thicker than the ones I installed.
I think I might install this thicker gasket on the drivers side to see if I can make it even quieter. So much easier to get to drivers side than pass side.

I am seriously considering getting a new exhaust manifold for the drivers side (they don’t come with provisions for EGR) and drilling and tapping for the EGR fitting.
Got to look into drilling and tapping cast iron.
 






Update:
Since the head swap my gas mileage has gone from 6.5mpg to 16.3mpg.
Pretty happy about that. Still slight tick but i’ll live with it until spring maybe fix it then.
 






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