Solved Headlight switch socket issues.

[shoprat]

I just joined this forum and I posted a thread about an Aerostar in the new members section. I don't know if anyone in this Aerostar Forum would have seen it, so, I'm posting a copy here.
1995 Ford Aerostar 2WD 4.0L EFI 6cyl Electrical troubleshooting
Daytime running lights, instrument cluster lights, license plate lights don't light. I removed the headlight switch, tested the terminals on the switch (per Haynes repair manual), everything works. The electrical connector looks damaged from heat, it's brown and distorted, so, I thought that was the problem. I plugged the switch into it and tested the outputs at all the switch positions and they all checked out correctly, showed 11.9V, and the dimmer went up and down while rotating the switch. But, the lights still don't come on!
The headlights work and all the other lights work. It's hard to trace the wires after they come out of the switch, they go into wire looms and who knows where.
Am I missing something? I am going to replace the connector, it's in pretty bad shape. If that doesn't fix it, what next?
Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated.
Thanks


Looking over the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual I found a Daytime Running Lights module. The manual covers many different models, so, it has many different diagrams and I cannot tell which one applies to my vehicle.
Does anyone know if my vehicle has this DRL module and could it possibly be the problem with my lights?
Appreciate any help.

 

[shoprat]

(I don't know if this is the right way to add more to the thread I posted, but)
Am I misunderstanding what Daytime Running Lights are?
The lights I am talking about are the ones that come on at the four corners when you pull the headlight switch out to the first position before the headlights come on. They stay on when you pull the switch all the way to turn on the headlights. I think they're called parking lights, or, running lights. The rear ones are your tail lights.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! So from what I've read so far, your headlights turn on but not the parking lights? Is this correct? Did you check the fuses?

 

[Josh P]

Do your turn signals and backup lights work? Info I found says they are on the same fuse.

 

[shoprat]

Hi BrooklynBay,
Thanks for the reply.
Yes, the fuses are good. There is power to the headlight switch and power coming out of the headlight switch correctly. The headlights work, they're on a different circuit. The dome light works, with the dimmer. The parking lights, license plate lights, and instrument cluster do not light. They are all controlled by the headlight switch.
The brake lights, turn signals, and back-up lights all work, but, they're on different circuits and controlled by other switches. I'll check everything again tomorrow.
Go METS(?)

 

[shoprat]

Hi Josh P,
Yes, they work. All fuses are good. I just put a new headlight switch connector in, but haven't tried it yet, I want to check everything before I connect the battery again. The old connector looked pretty bad, but, it passed all the tests, so, I don't think that will solve the problem. I'll find out tomorrow.
Thanks for the input.
Can we post pictures on here?

 

[Josh P]

You will need a volt/multi meter. On the wiring to the switch there is a tan wire with a white stripe. this is the 12v supply to the parking lamps from the fuse. If the fuse is verified good and there is no voltage at the switch side there is a break in that wire. If you have voltage on the tan/white wire you can rule out the switch by jumpering the tan/white wire with the brown wire directly above it on the connector. As far as posting pictures I don't know someone else would have to chime in.

 

[shoprat]

Thanks guys.
Replacing the headlight switch connector fixed it. The old one was kinda burnt, that's why I wanted to post a picture, so, I knew it needed to be replaced, but, when it passed the tests and voltage was coming through, I thought there must be another problem.
I should have replaced the connector first, but, instead I tried to track down a short after the switch, took out the instrument cluster and some other panels.
Replacing the connector was a little bit of a chore for me. I don't have much experience soldering and there are 9 wires you have to cut and splice. But, it worked.
If I would have done that first I could have avoided wasting a lot of time.
Oh well, I'm glad it's done.
Happy motoring!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the update! Your thread was renamed, and marked solved.