Headlights won't work :(

[Jeff00000168]

My headlight just wouldn't work. When headlight switch is turned to the first position, the park lights work. When switched to the next position (which is the headlights), headlights don't work. Even the brights don't work when lever is pushed but brights work when lever is pulled.

If there is a problem with the fuse, I don't know which one to is it?

Thanks in advance!

 

[gijoecam]

If the flash-to-pass works, it's not the fuse as the same fuse feeds both the low and high beams. If I was a bettin' man, I'd bet it was the headlight switch. Unplug the switch, check for power at the DB/O wire coming into it, and if you have power there, check for continuity between the pin that connects to the DB/O wire and the pin that connects to the R/Y wire with the switch in the on position. If it's got continuity through the switch, the multifunction switch is the likely culprit. If the headlight switch is open between those two pins, replace it.

Good luck!

-Joe

 

[dhoisak]

I had the same problem on my 98 X. but with the DRL module. Took it to the Ford dealer and they changed the entire turn signal/high beam/washer arm module. Voila!!! The part is not too hard to change yourself, but it costs about $370 Cdn.. Lucky I had the extra long extended warranty.

Cheers

 

[410Fortune]

dhoisak that part is known as the multifunction switch.
Used is a good way to go for these, also you may be able to get them aftermarket instead of the dealer = less $$$
I have also heard people take them apart and rebuild (clean) them and that fixes the problem, however there are alot of small parts in there, I have not attempted this. I have replaced quite a few of these but i always use the junk yard for new ones.

 

[zenradio]

The same exact thing just happened to me on my '98 Limited. The headlights would at first not come on unless you flashed the high beam or jiggled the switch. Now they won't come on at all and the high beams don't work either (the parking lights and the passing high beam works though).

Is this the part I need (part #3 in the diagram)
http://tinyurl.com/pn4ds

Besides disconnecting the battery is there anything I should know about replacing this? I read that you need to remove the steering column covers, but I don't have a repair manual and would appreciate any pointers by someone who has done this.

Thanks.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Whenever working on the steering column, disconnect the battery, and wait at least 10 minutes for the power to drain from the internal battery back-up inside of the SRS module. This is recommended so that the air bag doesn't accidentally deploy.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for posting that link above. It has a nice parts locator with detailed diagrams.

 

[zenradio]

I was able to get the part from my Ford dealer for about $70 and it didn't take all that long to do, less than an hour. Works great, problem solved and I saved quite a bit of money.

Thanks for the info about the air bag, while I would have disconnected the battery I never would have thought of a backup battery someplace holding a charge that could lead to the airbag deploying

 

[BrooklynBay]

The battery backup is a built in safety precaution in the event of a power failure from a crash. They do go bad eventually, just like any other battery.

 

[Jeff00000168]

Thanks for the reply guys! Unfortunately for me, I went to the dealer the next day since I didn't have any time off work and it was the multifunction switch that was the culprit. $80 at the dealer + $140 for labor @ Long Beach Pacific Ford, CA. They were evn gonna charge me $90 at first for diagnosis and I told them that they didn't have to since I know where the problem was and they waived off the $90. Whew!

 

[McMuddy]

Sooooo Guys. I'm a little confused here. At the beginning, it was suggested it was the headlight switch in the dash. Then, it appears the MFS is the culprit....don't know for sure which was the culprit.

Here is my issue (and I apologize in advance for the long winded post).....no low beams at all, did have high beams for about 2 seconds while I pushed the flash to pass arm and then the highs went out as well. I still have fog/spot lights and all marker lights (rear and front) but no headlights. I've checked all fuses and relays (inside fuse box and under hood power distribution panel) and everything there appears to be fine.

The headlight switch appears to be functioning normally in the the part lights come on and the headlight switch turns the fog/spots off when the high beam arm is engaged but no headlights, low or high. The MFS has caused me a couple of issues in the past few months with other unrelated problems like turning left, the signals seem to freeze on (no flashing) and a little puff of smoke was seen coming from the steering column. And then again last night when I couldn't get the lights to come on, I pulled on the arm and the high beams came on, then I pushed forward and the went off and pulled back again and I heard what I thought sounded like a little click (almost like a fuse popping quietly) and then the high's went out too.

So....I'm a little befuddled here and think it might be the MFS but would that affect both high and low beams. That's what is making me think it might be the headlight switch.....or maybe the problem is twofold....perhaps both are gone.

Now just to put a real screw into the mix.....could it be the DRL module at the front of the truck? I ask this only because everything seemed to be working fine yesterday when I had my light check done while getting my oil changed at my local quick lube. I forgot to turn off the headlights after leaving there and went straight to my local car wash at which point I exited the vehicle with it left running and forgot the headlights were still on. I noticed they were on while walking through the viewing/waiting area where you can watch you car going through the twirly jigs.....anyway, when the car exited the wash I reached in and turned off the headlight switch. I really didn't noticed the problem until I got into the truck last night to run to WalMart at which point I realized I had no head lights at all.

I know everyone is probably going to lean towards the DRL module getting wet but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot this one as there are too many variables.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.....

Cheers

McMuddy

PS....sorry about the long winded post here....

 

[McMuddy]

Hi again everyone....

Well I just bought and changed out the MFS and it made absolutely no difference to my issue. So do I go forward now and replace the headlight switch or do I change the DRL Module first???? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks

McMuddy

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could check the switch with a continuity tester.

 

[McMuddy]

You could check the switch with a continuity tester.

That makes perfect sense except I'm a little bit challenged electrically speaking. I do have a volt/ohm meter but haven't the foggiest idea of what to check .... or which wires to check ect....

 

[BrooklynBay]

A continuity tester will beep or light when the circuit is closed. Connect the tester to the switch, then turn it on to hear the beep or see the light.

 

[SoNic67]

Too many people tagged on this thread, it's confusing which is what.
So... this is how to check:

Step 1: If flash-to-pass is working then the main fuse no.12 (30A) in the Battery Junction Box is good. If is not working, check fuse. This fuse feeds also directly the Autolamp Relay contact.

Step 2: On the Main Light Switch (the one on the dash), DK BLU/ORG wire is incoming 12V from fuse. RED/YEL is the 12V output from switch for HI/LO beams.
Check output, if not present replace the MLS.
Another way to check this - if the Auto lights are working at night, but not on the manual (day time/rain), then this MLS is bad.

Step 3: On the Multi Function Switch (column mounted), the input is same RED/YEL from above, the output is RED/BLK for LO and GRY/ORG for HI.
Check voltages, if not present when selected... replace MFS.

Step 4: The above circuits go to the Central Junction Box (under engine hood), as follows:
Fuse no.33 (15A) feeds via a LT GRN/BLK wire the HI beams and the instrument cluster bulb for Hi. Also to DRL module - if it is present. Check fuse.
Fuse no.4 (10A) feeds via a WHT/LT GRN wire the Left LO beam.
Fuse no.8 (10A) feeds via a DK BLU/LT GRN wire the Right LO beam. This also feeds the FOG LAMP relay (if present).
A RED/BLK wire is also coming out, not fused, and goes to DRL module if present.