Heat Problem(s)

[banUFOs]

I have a 2003 XLT 4.6 w/ 150k on it.

I just put a ton of money into it for wheel bearings, tires, struts, etc.

The day after it came out of the shop, it started making the clicking sound when the heat was on. After a quick search here, I saw that it was a classic blend door actuator failure.

All of the money I had into this thing led me to put it off for 3 weeks before I bought the part from Ford. In the mean time, I found a thread that explained how to reach in and manually move the door to get hot air...

Here's where things get not so cut and dry...

Manually moving the door seemed to work for a couple of days. Then, it seemed as if I was only getting heat when I was moving, or pressing down on the accelerator. Then, after another couple of days, it didn't matter which position the door was in, I had no heat. I figured it was just the actuator..

Last night, I installed the blend door actuator I got from the dealership. It went well thanks the these forums. I made sure by sticking my hand behind the dash while moving the temperature control from cold to hot and back, the door is working properly... but I still have no heat.

I don't know where to start from here. I don't know if the AC would work (it's never worked as long as I've owned this car)...

Also, I have the standard heat system, not the climate control.

Any help you guys could give me is appreciated.

I'm already 2400 bucks in the hole just in the last couple of months w/ this thing. I refuse to let it beat me.

Thanks.

 

[limited05]

I have a 2003 XLT 4.6 w/ 150k on it.

I just put a ton of money into it for wheel bearings, tires, struts, etc.

The day after it came out of the shop, it started making the clicking sound when the heat was on. After a quick search here, I saw that it was a classic blend door actuator failure.

All of the money I had into this thing led me to put it off for 3 weeks before I bought the part from Ford. In the mean time, I found a thread that explained how to reach in and manually move the door to get hot air...

Here's where things get not so cut and dry...

Manually moving the door seemed to work for a couple of days. Then, it seemed as if I was only getting heat when I was moving, or pressing down on the accelerator. Then, after another couple of days, it didn't matter which position the door was in, I had no heat. I figured it was just the actuator..

Last night, I installed the blend door actuator I got from the dealership. It went well thanks the these forums. I made sure by sticking my hand behind the dash while moving the temperature control from cold to hot and back, the door is working properly... but I still have no heat.

I don't know where to start from here. I don't know if the AC would work (it's never worked as long as I've owned this car)...

Also, I have the standard heat system, not the climate control.

Any help you guys could give me is appreciated.

I'm already 2400 bucks in the hole just in the last couple of months w/ this thing. I refuse to let it beat me.

Thanks.

it sounds like either :
you are low on antifreeze or your thermostat is stuck open.
If you are low on antifreeze you will need to find the leak and repair it.

 

[Exproblems]

I have a 2003 XLT 4.6 w/ 150k on it.

I
Here's where things get not so cut and dry...

Manually moving the door seemed to work for a couple of days. Then, it seemed as if I was only getting heat when I was moving, or pressing down on the accelerator. Then, after another couple of days, it didn't matter which position the door was in, I had no heat. Last night, I installed the blend door actuator I got from the dealership. It went well thanks the these forums. I made sure by sticking my hand behind the dash while moving the temperature control from cold to hot and back, the door is working properly... but I still have no heat.

Also, I have the standard heat system, not the climate control.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Good job on installing the blend door actuator. If you are certain it is working properly, then I would look at these things next as to why you have no heat now. Make sure your coolant level is full first. If it is low, this could cause a loss of heat. Your "blend door" itself could be broken inside the box it is housed in, pray it isn't. Not sure if the 2003 4.6L's have "heater valves" on them, but if you do and it went bad, this will cause a loss of heat in the vehicle. The "heater valve" would be connected in line with the heater core hoses or tubing where it runs along the passenger side of the engine along the side of the valve cover a foot or two before they reach the heater core tubing at the firewall. You just have to find out if your vehicle has one and go from there. Good luck.

 

[banUFOs]

ok..

Thanks for your replies..

I have to admit, I didn't check the coolant level. This is b/c I just topped it off 1500 miles ago. I assumed it was ok.

It was all the way to the bottom of the reservoir. I filled it back up. The heat works, but only when you're pressing down on the gas. I'm wondering if that's a vacuum leak somewhere..

Also, I don't know where that coolant is going. This Explorer has always needed a top off at oil change intervals. But, it's never been this bad. Also, there aren't any spots on the garage floor from a leak, and I haven't noticed antifreeze in the oil. I'm stumped.

 

[Exproblems]

Thanks for your replies..

I have to admit, I didn't check the coolant level. This is b/c I just topped it off 1500 miles ago. I assumed it was ok.

It was all the way to the bottom of the reservoir. I filled it back up. The heat works, but only when you're pressing down on the gas. I'm wondering if that's a vacuum leak somewhere.. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

You might have some air in the system or you could possibly have some sort of partial blockage in the radiator or heater core since you state the heat works better at a higher engine rpm. I'm thinking that when you rev the engine, the water pump spins and pumps faster and harder than at idle, so at this higher rpm, it is enough to circulate or force coolant thru the partially blocked radiator or heater core and giving you heat till you let off the gas. To get rid of any air in the system, try squeezing the upper raidator hose by hand numerous times while watching for air bubbles popping up in the expansion tank. When done, run the engine and top off the expansion tank with more coolant if needed.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Also, I don't know where that coolant is going. This Explorer has always needed a top off at oil change intervals. But, it's never been this bad. Also, there aren't any spots on the garage floor from a leak, and I haven't noticed antifreeze in the oil. I'm stumped.>>>>>>>>>>>

You checked and answered the other things I would have mentioned to look for here. The coolant has to be going some where and if not thru an external leak or internally thru the oil, then all I got is "possibly" it is being burned out thru the exhaust system thru the combustion chamber/spark plugs. That would explain why you see no leaks or coolant mixing with the oil.

 

[sp05ld2]

Lower Thermostat Housing

Check your lower thermostat housing. The symptoms you describe are identical to what I had. Wife complained that it only blew hot when she was driving not at rest. Did not see one drop of coolant on the ground but it was going through a quart a week. Pulled the lower housing and was amazed how badly it was leaking. Tough to see even looking down on it. Several good threads on the repair here.

 

[Exproblems]

Check your lower thermostat housing. The symptoms you describe are identical to what I had. Wife complained that it only blew hot when she was driving not at rest. Did not see one drop of coolant on the ground but it was going through a quart a week. Pulled the lower housing and was amazed how badly it was leaking. Tough to see even looking down on it. Several good threads on the repair here.

I'm surprised there wasn't any steam rising up under the hood from the lower housing leak after an overnight or cold morning start up. On any of my other vehicles in the past that had a t-stat housing leak, I always saw some steam rising up with colder outside temps, usually right after I shut it off and the pressure in the system built up and it leaked a little.

 

[banUFOs]

I did get some air out of the system. It took another half of a bottle of coolant/water. My wife drove it this morning and said the heat was fine.

I'll monitor the coolant level this week and see if I'm losing anything, and check the lower T-Stat housing.

Thanks again guys.

 

[Exproblems]

I did get some air out of the system. It took another half of a bottle of coolant/water. My wife drove it this morning and said the heat was fine.

I'll monitor the coolant level this week and see if I'm losing anything, and check the lower T-Stat housing.

Thanks again guys.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Good to hear the heat is back and if you do have to change the lower t-stat housing seal, the Haynes manual says for a 2003 V-8, the t-stat housing bolts torque specs are 18 ft lbs. The manual doesn't give the torque specs for the lower housing bolts, doesn't even mention the lower housing actually, but I would assume it is the same as the t-stat housing bolts. I think the lower housing cover is made of plastic as well, just like the t-stat housing is, unless the V-8 comes with metal housings, I am not 100% sure on that. I have the V-6 and they are plastic. The t-stat temp range for your engine is 194-210 degrees F. Good luck!