HELP!!!! 1994 Explorer will not run or walk even

[billw129]

Ok here is an update. I changed the spark plugs first. The truck started but ran like crap. Changed the wires and it ran a little bit better. Changed the coil pack and it ran great. Started to drive it and didnt even get around the block and it is back to the same issues. I then Hollowed out the CAT. Still having issues. The motor is flooding out. Fuel pressure seems to be perfect at 39-40 PSI. It is almost like driving a 2 stroke. If I get on it then it runs fine if I just drive then it floods and fouls the plugs. As long as I have the pedal down to the floor then it runs just fine. I dont know what to do anymore. I work for a used car dealer and he just offered me a thunderbird for $700 with no issues but I do not want to put the explorer to rest over something stupid, that I know that this is. Everything that everyone (even mechanics that have actually looked at the truck) tells me to test I do. Everything tests out fine or has been replaced already.

 

[gmanpaint]

Well if everything that we have "Recommended" is not the problem, maybe it's time to take it into the dealer. They have diagnostic equipment that nobody else has. My dealer charges $75 to hook up to their machines, and they WILL tell you what the problem is. Once you know, you can repair it your self.

So the upper intake gasket was good? It really sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

 

[huntman58]

Still sounds like you’re getting to much gas for any thing but WOT. To me that would be a bad FPR or a bad injector or more being not shut off but staying open for what ever reason and blasting gas at all times.

I thought here when you turn the key on with out trying to start the truck just key on in the run position how long dose the fuel pump run before it shuts off a few seconds as like in priming or longer? Also I do not remember but did you do a fuel pressure leak down test both FPR and on the rail?
if so then I am with Gman all the way on it now.

 

[billw129]

The fuel pump only stays on for like a second. The old one stayed on for like 2 seconds. I didnt do a leakdown test as the tester that I was using would spew gas as soon as I shut the key off and there was no pressure to it. I do think I have fixed the problem. I changed the TPS. Drove it for a few miles with no issues. Actually in between reading your post and replying to it is when I went out and got it. Tomorrow will be the true test. Hopefully all is well.

 

[huntman58]

Good to hear! Hope that is it and now that you remedied me I forgot about that little black box and yes it would do just what you were saying. Some times I still get stuck in the old world of carburetors not a good thing.
Also you may want to read this I did this my self and it did help a bit in my trucks running.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79362&highlight=TPS+mods

 

[billw129]

OK so the truck has been retired. Well not totally. I did get a new car but the explorer still is on the road. Funny think huntman. I read that post and when I went to the shop the first thing I did was check the new TPS I put on. It was reading at 1V DC. I tried to adjust it with out drilling it with no luck. Took it off and turned it down as much as it would go (with a screwdriver so even if it was drilled all the way out this is the lowest it would allow to be turned down) and it didn't change. Tested the original one and it tested at a perfect .96V DC. So returned the TPS, Fuel pump, and Coil. Truck is running the same as it has been for the last 2 weeks or so. My next thought is the Cam Sensor and the Crank Sensor. One of the benefit of having a commercial account is I can throw parts at it and return them if it doesn't work. Only problem is the $90 Mass air flow sensor that I put in it 4 weeks ago when it actually threw a code for it.

 

[huntman58]

Well having an account like that would be nice and Boy I could use one right now. Have to redo my front brakes rotors and the rear shoes but do not have the cash to even put gas init to go get the parts LOL dang rotors warped. Almost 200,000 miles on the stock ones no problems less then 10,000 on new ones warped GRRRR! Pads not even half way worn.

So ya throwing parts can be nice that way but I still hat to work that hard I am lazy so I want to only wrench on it once and then forget it LMAO.

 

[billw129]

I hear you. Actually I had to pay for all of the parts out of pocket first and then get a refund but it was actually out of the boss's pocket. (he is a good guy and helped me on that one). The first problem that I had with the truck before all of this other stuff was my passenger side inner break pad fell off. Dont ask me how but it did and my wife had the truck that day. She pulled up at my job and told me that the truck was making a funny sound and didnt want to go when she pushed the gas. Well anyway it was the caliper piston pushing on the rotor as well as what ever this new problem is both at the same time. So now I have new caliper, rotors, pads, Mass air flow, plugs, and wires on a truck that runs like crap. Will see what happens after I change the Cam and crank sensor. By the way Does anyone know how those sensors work as in I think one of them controls spark and the other the injectors. If that is the case witch ones control witch or do they both work together for spark and injectors.