HELP! - Engine won't freeking come out

[jster91]

I'm trying to do an engine swap on my 2004 Explorer 4.0L. I unbolted everything, unhooked everything, but the dang motor won't budge off the tranny and come out. Is there a trick that I'm missing? And just to be sure, how many bolts hold on the tranny? I found 6.

Any help is appreciated...

Jeff

 

[glfredrick]

Did you pull the starter? The torque converter bolts? Dipstick tube?

I also believe there are more than 6 bolts, but I'm going from memory. Two at the very top, two more at about 10 and 2 (like a clock), two more between the ribs at 9 and 3, and two more lower down.

Sometimes, the transmission sticks on the locating pins also. Might need to do a bit of wiggling.

Here's a rear view of the 4.0 bellhousing.

 

[jster91]

Well, pulled the starter, but may have missed the torque converter bolts. I'm not sure where they are. Also, if you attached a picture of the bell housing, I'm not able to see it. And if the housing has eight bolts, the top two are impossible to get to. THe upper intake is in the way and I can't seem to get that off either. I removed all but one of the bolts to the upper intake, but there is one in the back that I can barely touch, but cant get a socket in there. This car is nuts to work on.

 

[jster91]

Oh, I see the pic now. Looks like two bolts at the top of the housing. I definately didn't get them. I must get the plastic intake out of the way somehow. That last star drive bolt is so hard to reach.

 

[jster91]

ALso, one last item. Is there a place to get exploded assembly drawings of the engine? I subscribed to Chilton's online thing and it stinks. It gives you the steps to take out the motor, but no pics.

 

[glfredrick]

Oh, I see the pic now. Looks like two bolts at the top of the housing. I definately didn't get them. I must get the plastic intake out of the way somehow. That last star drive bolt is so hard to reach.

Get at all the bolts from the rear, not the top!

Drop the transmission crossmember, lower the entire engine-transmission assembly, use a long extension, and get right at them. Stick the crossmember back in temporaily while you pull the motor, or the transmission will be on the floor!

Can't help you with an exploded drawing, but every motor is about the same inside. They all have pistons rods, crankshaft, cam, bearings, timing chain, etc. Not sure how an exploded drawing will help you beside what is in the manual.

Note that in the manual, there is a different section for R&R the engine versus rebuilding the engine. (R&R stands for remove and replace)

 

[jster91]

I'm just removing and replacing, I was just looking for better diagrams of the back side of the engine. Thanks for the help. I'll try that. I'm thinking that the engine will tilt back, but won't go down due to the engine mounts.

 

[glfredrick]

I'm just removing and replacing, I was just looking for better diagrams of the back side of the engine. Thanks for the help. I'll try that. I'm thinking that the engine will tilt back, but won't go down due to the engine mounts.

Yup. Just replace the transmission crossmember before you actually pull the engine, or the transmission will be on the floor.

Removing the crossmember lets the entire assembly droop -- in my picture, imagine letting the hoist lower -- everything tips to where you can see it from the rear and get on the bolts with a long extension.

 

[lusso64]

Having done this twice in the past few months, I can tell you that you don't need to drop the trans cross member. To get to the bellhousing bolts, hold the engine with the hoist, remove the engine mounts from the block, and then LOWER the engine a few inches. Careful not to squash anything under it. Then you can easily get to the bellhousing bolts from above, leaning over the engine. Then raise everything back to where you started, place a jack under the front of the trans, and then slide the engine off the bellhousing. Of course you need to remove the 4 nuts holding the torque converter to the drive plate.

Another thing - you don't need to remove the A/C, radiator or power steering. You can remove the big cast mount that holds the AC and PS pumps and then push the pumps off to the side. The radiator needs to have the top brackets removed so it can sit a few inches further forward, but that's it. With the fan off the water pump, it will JUST come out nicely.

I am no master mechanic but I did the second engine swap by myself in about 10 hours. This is at home with nothing exciting in the tool box other than a cherry picker for the engine.

Now, if I could only get the stupid engine to run again (after working for 3 weeks it just quit) I'd be happy

Dave

 

[jster91]

The four nuts to the torque converter/drive plate, where are they? I'm not remembering if I took them off.

 

[Maniak]

You pull the starter and get to the bolts that way (rotate the motor slowly until you can see/remove them)..

~Mark

 

[jster91]

Thanks. I have the starter off, I must have missed them.

 

[IZwack]

I think you need one of these

 

[glfredrick]

Is this your first time pulling a motor? If so, kudos to you for learning how to do the work yourself instead of farming it out!

The torque converter bolts go from the converter through the flex-plate (flywheel) on the back of the motor. As Maniak said ^^^ you get at them through the hole left once you remove the starter. You'll need to use a screwdriver or pry bar (or a socket on the nut on the crank pulley on the front of the engine) in order to turn over the engine to see the bolts. As you turn it, look through the starter hole, and when you see a bolt, that's what you have to remove.

As I recall, they're fairly easy to round off on Fords, so use a high quality 6 point socket that fits right. Lefty-loosey (counter-clockwise), Loosen one, then spin over the engine until you see the next -- do all four, then slide the torque converter as far back into the transmission as you can (likely less than 1/2").

For the record, you put it back together the same way. The torque converter stays inside the transmission, engaged into the splines and pump drive, and is bolted to the flex plate only after the engine is back in place.

 

[wolstrading]

thanks guys this will surely help me as I am doing the same to mine. The stupid RH timing chain adjuster is broken and needs changing.
does any one know how I can best do that?

 

[jster91]

Well, I got the motor out. Whew! I opened up the valve cover, and there it was... The timing chain was completely off the sprocket and it chewed up the plastic guide and even slapped the one screw enought to wear some of the head away. And, it cracked my valve cover too. I was able to get at the top two bell housing bolts by removing the upper intake from the motor prior to removing it. It is possible to do. 7 of the 8 intake screws are pretty easy, the one nearest the fire wall is tough, but can be reached. After removing the upper intake, the two remaining bell housing bolts came out pretty easy with a wrench.

Question... since i forgot to remove the torque plate bolts attached to the torque converter, the converter came out with the engine and of course emptied all over the floor. How much do you refill it prior to putting it back in the tranny?

Another question... removal of the tranny oil cooler... where can I get a removal tool? It's not the same as the one for fuel and A/C.


And, yes, I was not going to pay the Ford Dealer $6500 for a refurb engine replacement. That's nuts! I got a used motor for $800. And I'm transferring over as many accessories as I can from mine. It's not fun, and definately a learning process.

 

[glfredrick]

I'd dump a quart into the converter and stick it back into the transmission.

This is a CRITICAL operation. Make sure that you engage all the sets of splines as it slides back into the tranny. Turn and twist it until it goes "thunk" and slides in farther. It should do this 3 times if I recall properly. If it is all the way in, it will be completely inside the bell housing by close to 1/2".

You can get the line tool at any parts store that has a wall full of tools, or chase down a Snap On, Mac, or Matco truck. They all carry them, and a small tool like that isn't a big $$ item like their premium stuff.

Good job on getting it out. Now you just have to repeat the process, backwards, blindfolded, without tearing up stuff in the process...

 

[wolstrading]

hey guys, In the process of taking out my engine,
I ripped off a wire like coil attached to the crankshaft pulley. I cannot locate where it plugs after I took the engine out. That is to say that I cannot locate where the coil plugs in the engine compartment. does anyone know pls?

 

[410Fortune]

teh crank position sensor is mounted on the harmonic balancer. the wire for this sensor is routed on the front of your engine, around the waterpump and up to the lower intake manifold right near the coolant temp sensors, you should find your wires there, if I am reading your post correctly.

Also you hijacked somebody elses thread LOL

good luck!

 

[wolstrading]

I took the engine out already. I am just trying to locate it before replacing the engine. I know the position of it but just cant find the plug. I will look more. thanks for the advice.