HELP! Las Vegas mechanic for replacing header

[LVExp]

Guys,

I cam across your forum while searching on how hard it is to replace the headers on my '96 5.0 XLT and figured i would try asking for help.

Here is the deal. The passanger side headers have rusted out and I just moved to Las Vegas from the east coast and everything on my X has a decent coating of rust and every mechanic here is afraid to even touch the thing.

One place said it would be ~$700 in parts and anywhere from ~$800 - ~$1500 just for labor.

Now if i can't get the header replaced for something reasonable my wife is going to make me get rid of my cherished X. Which would not be fun since i have it packed full of mods and electronics which i don't have the time or money to redo (most work was done pre wife and kids).

With that being said are there any mechanics in Las Vegas that would be willing and able to replace the headers on my east coast X for a reasonable fee?

thanks in advance.

 

[Xan]

Ok first off what do you mean its rusted out? they are made of cast iron they rust like all factory manifolds do. Is there a crack or a hole in them or are they leaking? Because if they are not, rust on the manifolds is normal.
If they are leaking theres sure as hell a cheaper set then $700, and they are a pain and the butt to replace but not $800-$1500 worth of labor. It would probaily take a couple hours. if you wanna replace them with a better performing version click the link in my signature (mod your 5.0 with power) the torque monster headers are one of the best mods for power on these 5.0s and the members of our site have made step by step write ups on how to change them like this one by mountaineer green. if you want to replace them with factory manifolds/headers they are on ebay all the time for like $70 ($24.99 buy it now for both) seearch for either headers or manifolds

 

[LVExp]

Let me investigate and take pictures.

I never found the actual hole but every time i touch the pipes to find the hole i get rust raining down on me. And every place i have taken it has said they were rusted out. Now they might all be taking me for a ride but i haven't had the time.

Let me climb under it today and take some pictures of what i find.

 

[Xan]

Let me investigate and take pictures.

I never found the actual hole but every time i touch the pipes to find the hole i get rust raining down on me. And every place i have taken it has said they were rusted out. Now they might all be taking me for a ride but i haven't had the time.

Let me climb under it today and take some pictures of what i find.

As i said all manifolds rust... but if there isent anything physicly wrong with them like a hole a crack or warping that turns into leaking then they are just normal manifolds and to replace them with stock un rusted oens would be a waste because the new ones will also rust

 

[LVExp]

I finally spent the time to get under there and have a good look and it appears the mechanics were taking me for a ride. I found that the metal shield was rusted and crumbling but the headers were not, just coated in rust as Xan said they should be.

Tho there is definitely a leak. I bought some of the exhaust "putty" or whatever and am going to see if i can locate the exact spot. It is either at a bend in the pipe or where they meet the engine. and when i get the money and time i will go for a set of new Torque headers.

Xan thanks for your replies.

Post with questions about A/C coming shortly.

 

[JoeMahma]

I finally spent the time to get under there and have a good look and it appears the mechanics were taking me for a ride. I found that the metal shield was rusted and crumbling but the headers were not, just coated in rust as Xan said they should be.

Tho there is definitely a leak. I bought some of the exhaust "putty" or whatever and am going to see if i can locate the exact spot. It is either at a bend in the pipe or where they meet the engine. and when i get the money and time i will go for a set of new Torque headers.

Xan thanks for your replies.

Post with questions about A/C coming shortly.

Mine was cracked. You couldn't see it with the heat shields on. It's very common.

 

[Xan]

Yeah they are junky headers and a crack in them will decrease performance and gas milage i'd get them fixed ASAP. i think that exhaust putty is mainly for mufflers and don't think it'll do much

 

[rwenzing]

The 96 5.0L has the earlier sheetmetal manifolds, not cast iron as used later. They could easily be cracked or rusted through. They aren't THAT hard to change through the wheelwells unless a few fasteners break and need to be extracted. That's probably what the shops are hedging against with the ridiculously high estimates.

Keep shopping around - it should be possible to find someone who would replace both manifolds with stockers or even Torque Monsters for less than your $1500 minumum estimate.

 

[Turdle]

Don't waste time or money trying to patch them.
Your mechanic knows what he's talking about-it's a very common problem.
Here's what you'll see under that heat shield-right off my son's 98 from New York.
I couldn't actually see the crack while it was mounted on the truck

 

[LVExp]

Well the header is leaking and you can hear my X coming for a few miles.

So its time to do something.

Can anyone recommend a good mechanic in/around Vegas who could do the work or worst case rescue me when i get stuck for a reasonable cost? Worst case ill check the phone book.

 

[Turdle]

I'd gladly help ya fix your truck-
fly my wife and I out and it'll be done!! I've never been to vegas--



Serious-a shop will rape you. Time to buy tools. you will get a real nice tool set for half of what the labor will be for this repair. Strange thing-it isn't that hard.

want to give it a shot? we can tell you the parts, and tools you will need. I've installed ( or helped install)4 sets of headers-heck, I've had my engine out 3 times--

 

[Xan]

IMO, headers arent the hardest thing to do on a truck, considering you take off your wheels and pull out the plastic fenders and you can see and touch ever bolt for the manifolds. As long as you coat down the old bolts with penatrating lube and use new bolts you shouldn't have any breaking problems.

 

[LVExp]

I'd gladly help ya fix your truck-
fly my wife and I out and it'll be done!! I've never been to vegas--



Serious-a shop will rape you. Time to buy tools. you will get a real nice tool set for half of what the labor will be for this repair. Strange thing-it isn't that hard.

want to give it a shot? we can tell you the parts, and tools you will need. I've installed ( or helped install)4 sets of headers-heck, I've had my engine out 3 times--

Would you bring your own tools? Whats the closest airport?

Tho if you ever do make it to Vegas let me know, the VIP life style is fun. Tho my friends never want me to drive my Exploder they all want to drive there Mercedes, BMWs, Hummers, and Aston Matrins. Go figure.

I just might tackle this but what happens if this life long MA snow/salt rusted son of a gun has its bolts break? Is it difficult/possible to get them out? Thats is my only hesitation and why i wanted a recommended shop to be ready to help if needed.

Very interested in a list of tools so i can price shop.

 

[Turdle]

The hardest bolt to get to is the inboard collector bolt-
for this you need a wobble extension and a flex head ratchet-
or-
with a helper holding the socket in place-about 3' of extensions to reach it from underneath-
On my son;s truck these were surprisingly easy to remove.
spray all the bolts down well with pb blaster.

Do you have the replacement manifold? you'll need one for 96 with internal egr-late 97-01 will not fit.

I think they sell cast replacements on ebay. This is the economical style to use.
Installing the Torque monster headers is a bit more involved than a straight replacement-the headers are a bit larger and require the loosening of the motor mounts.

 

[LVExp]

Don't waste time or money trying to patch them.
Your mechanic knows what he's talking about-it's a very common problem.
Here's what you'll see under that heat shield-right off my son's 98 from New York.
I couldn't actually see the crack while it was mounted on the truck

Son of a *****!!!

So last night the car was in one place for more then 15 minutes (of course it was 2am to 5am) and i managed to get the oil changed and then removed the inner fender on the passanger side. Sure enough once i really got a good look i saw the crack, right about where JTSmith's photo shows. However it my headers are different (cast vs the "sheet metal" described?)

So i went ahead and filled the darn thing with some muffler putty and so far it has stopped 98% of the noise and seems to be holding.

While i was under there i saw what you meant about there being plenty of access and i think i will give it a try once i have the money for a set of Torque headers and a decent replacement muffler.

What is the complete list of tools and parts i'll need so i can start budgeting?

Do you have the replacement manifold? you'll need one for 96 with internal egr-late 97-01 will not fit

Looking at it last night it appears the sensor is not on the headers but after where the headers meet the rest of the muffler. Is that normal/correct? My X was made in 4/96.

Funny story.... After having the mount that hold the leaf springs to the frame replaced my tail pipe started knocking against something when i went over a bump. So i pulled into Midas to let them tell me what to fix on my own. Well they got it on the lift and only part way in the air when the guy grabs the tail pipe and just pulls it straight out the back. So now my exhaust ends at the resonator.

And thanks again guys, i have never run into such a friendly and helpful group of guys on a forum in any industry.

 

[Xan]

Funny story.... After having the mount that hold the leaf springs to the frame replaced my tail pipe started knocking against something when i went over a bump. So i pulled into Midas to let them tell me what to fix on my own. Well they got it on the lift and only part way in the air when the guy grabs the tail pipe and just pulls it straight out the back. So now my exhaust ends at the resonator.

I would went over and back handed the guy and said you big gorilla you ripped my tail pipe off now you better be replacing that for free lol

 

[Turdle]

Have you read though this?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153944&highlight=torque+monster

air tools aren't needed, but they are nice.

You'll need a good basic tool set with 1/4", 3/8", and , 1/2" drive metric sockets
there is a nice one at sears for right around 160.00. Try to get the largest you can, but avoid the sets with a lot of allen wrenches.
a good 6" long wobble extension http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/atd-1352.html
swivel adapter
a few added 3/8" extensions would be good ( 3"-6"-10"-12")
a swivel head ratchet-Craftsman's model works for sure

For starting the new header bolts-a 1/4" drive extension with swivel adapter will come in real handy. try to find a set of 1/4 drive adapters with 3" 6" and 12" to compliment the extensions in the set. You can find extension sets inexpensively in those grab all tool bins you find in truck stops and hardware stores.

http://www.hechinger.com/hardware/tools/818764914-mint-craft-1-4-drive-extension-bar-mt6480537.html



Also for the motor mount nuts-
try to find a 3/4" wrench made of thin stamped steel.

 

[marcousa]

Heat up the old nuts wit a torche until the nut's are red glowing, after remove them. The heat crackes up the rost.
I do that all the time her in Canada ( f..u..k salt and snow) it works well.
Nice City to life in i was living there to 2 years ago. Was fixing RV's down at Boulder Hwy.

 

[LVExp]

Well i really dug into my exhaust system today and it turns out i have more problems then i thought.

First the Passanger side headers are cracked in the same place as JTSmith's. So far the muffler putty is working well enough that it doesn't sounds like a tank coming down the block.

Second my tail pipe is missing since it rusted through at the resonator and Midas simply slid it out.

Third there are holes in my muffler which i also filled with putty.

Fourth there are multiple holes and leaks in all of the 4 cats.

So my "project" is no longer $70-$700 for the headers and $250-$350 for a cat back system. Now I need new cats which from the pricing i found will be $150-$200 EACH.

Are there cheaper cats available for a '96 5.0? How rough would the sound be with only 2 cats?

Now the question is wether or not it is worth the money since the car isn't worth much more then the new exhaust would cost...... I'll let you all know what i decide and how it goes.

 

[Turdle]

Ok you could do this
use ebay
look for

"ball flange collector"

you need 2 of them-2.5" x 2.5"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Exha...020QQitemZ300184595431QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

now you need 4 02 sensor "weld in bungs"

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/O2-S...016QQitemZ260219309226QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

then 2- 2.5" high flow catalytic converters ( you should be able to find them for around 60 each)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-...005QQitemZ150225350759QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

forget the rear cats

then
find a flowmaster 50 series muffler (dual in single out pipe)

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4553&N=700+400238+4294922710+115&autoview=sku

take this stuff to an exhaust shop and have them install it-