HELP!- seized stud removal | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

HELP!- seized stud removal

dfox52

Active Member
Joined
September 12, 2015
Messages
50
Reaction score
18
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Explorer XLT
I am trying to remove a failed AC compressor from my 2013 Ford Explorer XLT 3.5L Everything is disconnected except for one item number six (6) in the diagram below. It is a threaded stud that must be removed in order for the compressor to come out of the vehicle. I've tried various penetrants (most recently "freeze-out") while massaging and torquing with a "double nut" setup. So far it hasn't moved. I don't want to torque too much for fear the stud might break. I can't think of anything else to try so I'm looking for suggestions. Thanks!

IMG_0166.JPG SCN~us~en~file=Y4G12S00155B7xP16264-UxxVxx.jpg
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











This may not help since it talks about replacing the condenser. It is mentioned that the radiator has to come off and to do that the bumper also has to be removed.

Peter
 






This may not help since it talks about replacing the condenser. It is mentioned that the radiator has to come off and to do that the bumper also has to be removed.

Peter

Ya thanks. I found both of those as well when I searched. The one from Jim the car guy is probably not relevant since he is replacing the condenser. The other one was "sort of" on the right track, but In any case, this is not about a routine installation at this point. My issue now is how to deal with a frozen/cemented mounting stud.
 






I've taken the liberty of editing the thread title in hopes that it may get some one to jump in.

Peter
 












Some of the upper bracket bolts may be easier to access from the top but its definitely coming out from the bottom. Most of the wiring connectors are at the bottom as well. The alternator is directly above the compressor and may increase access around the AC if its removed first.
 












can you raise the engine?
what a pita
 






can you raise the engine?
what a pita
Maybe... Not even sure how I would go about that.
Replacing old compressor in my 2013 Explorer XLT 3.5L. This looked like a pretty straight forward job, and everything was going fine removing the old compressor until I got to the final bottom mounting stud. It seems that this stud is permanently secured into the block with some kind of epoxy or something (See photos). I tried heating it with a torch but that did nothing. Not removing this stud means that the compressor would need to slide forward to get it off and out of the vehicle. But this approach presents another problem because the compressor contacts the sub-frame cross member about an inch before coming off the stud. I am thinking if I can drop the front sub-frame on that corner just an inch or so, I could slide the compressor past the cross member, but I don't want to loosen the sub-frame mounting bolt too far and have it come out. Any ideas/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

View attachment 432110 View attachment 432111
So I have an idea... But I need opinions. I don't know how well that stud is in there but my thought was to put on two nuts and try to back it out using one nut against the other. My concern with this aproach is that I might break the stud off. Then I will be screwed. When I first pulled the compressor away, I could see some dried substance oozing out from the stud. So my suspicion is that it is some kind of epoxy.
 






I was not expecting that... It does look like it may come out if you can raise it up. You could try just unbolting the passenger side engine mount. Place a jack securely under neath the oil pan with some padding between the pad and jack. Then try slowly raising the jack up.

I actually couldn't find any good videos on this procedure. I was going to say try removing the clutch first but that isn't gonna give you anymore room in this case.
 






I was not expecting that... It does look like it may come out if you can raise it up. You could try just unbolting the passenger side engine mount. Place a jack securely under neath the oil pan with some padding between the pad and jack. Then try slowly raising the jack up.

I actually couldn't find any good videos on this procedure. I was going to say try removing the clutch first but that isn't gonna give you anymore room in this case.
 






Some of the upper bracket bolts may be easier to access from the top but its definitely coming out from the bottom. Most of the wiring connectors are at the bottom as well. The alternator is directly above the compressor and may increase access around the AC if its removed first.
Hey Thanks for the input. I did start the job already and you are correct. That top bolt looks near impossible to get at from below though, so after sizing up the situation I decided to remove the passenger side fender splash shield to try and get better access from there. I did have to remove the washer reservoir completely which revealed a clear opening about 12 inches square to the compressor. My problem now is not about installing the new compressor. My problem is how to deal with that seized up stud and how to get it out or, alternatively, how to get around it by lowering the frame or raising the engine.
 












Featured Content

Back
Top