Here are my engine codes.

[Tremblor]

KOEO codes, 116 114 522, 116 114 522.

KOER codes, 116 114, 116 114.

those are the repeats aswell.

Any info on these?

 

[shaggymane]

116
(O,R)
Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT

114
(O,R)
IAT sensor out of range - IAT


522
Vehicle Not In Park Or Neutral During KOEO
O

See Brooklyns thread

did you solve that gas in the oil Prob yet?

 

[Tremblor]

what does "out of range" mean? and no i didnt figure out what the hell is wrong with that engine. It's getting on my nerves.

 

[Tremblor]

what's IAT?

 

[shaggymane]

IAT is Intake Air Temperature.

All these sensor have standing (Key off) resistance that's an acceptable range.
Between X ~ohms and Y ~ohms. If you get an out of range code you get your multimeter out and measure that resistance to make sure that particular component is bad and not being thrown off by something mechanical. For instance, A bad FPR will make the motor run rich, mess with the O2 sensor which tells the MAF bad info so you codes for both the MAF and the O2 sensor. But testing those sensors tells you they are good, i.e. with in range. So you don't replace them you look for the cause.

Anyway, The ECT tells the computer how warm the engine is or is not.The computer then adjusts the fuel to run richer when cold, leaner when hot. I think it's bugger to test. For each 20* increase in temp, you test the resistance. There's chart around her somewhere that gives the values. I think lots of people just test it at room temp and 190*, the running temp. Others just replace that one since it only talks to the computer and it's a 4.99 to 12.99 item.

I'm guessing that the IAT is about the same deal since it also would measure temp.

 

[shaggymane]

Make sure it's in Park and go find an old Ragu jar. :

 

[Tremblor]

Make sure it's in Park and go find an old Ragu jar. :

what am i going to use the Ragu jar for...

 

[shaggymane]

Ok so you didn't git that one. Drain half quart of oil in it like Brooklyn said.
Try it, see what separates out. I wanna know what the answer to that delemia is.

 

[Tremblor]

oh ok. as far as the codes go, where abouts is the coolant sensor located? I'll drain my oil when i get feeling better, im down for the count due to a plaural effusion in my chest. what size socket is the oil level sensor on the left side of the oil pan? and is it also called an oil sender unit? no part stores even know what im talking about when i say the oil level sensor.

 

[shaggymane]

See the 6th picture down, close up of the Tstat. Both coolant *sending units* are visible. The single prong is to the left of the T-stat.

The ECT is to the right, just below the TB. It has the 2 prong connector.

Give me little time and I'll get you part numbers and links.

Socket or wrench size I'm not sure of. 15/16ths gets used a lot when doing those switches/sending units.

Oh, and sucks to be you right now, eh? Yeah, that'll take the energy right out of ya. I feel for ya.

 

[shaggymane]

the ECT
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...&navValue=15900113&itemId=113-0&parentId=59-0

Here's a page from Advance of all kinds of sensors. The one at the top might be the IAT. Never messed with one. Dunno.

IN the middle of the page BWD Part No. WT5058Z looks like the ECT at at better price than the one clear at the bottom
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...Sensors_-49997346_-49997327_10151_10051_-1___

The oil level sensors don't seem to be widely available and they are pricey.
From Rock auto

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=903&partnum=5S3013&a=FR903-5S3013

Apparently there is a relay that goes in that circuit? Dunno. Never messed with that either. But at those prices I'd going for one from BYard
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=903&partnum=1R1127&a=FR903-1R1127

And just because...... here's a page from OR's. They start there listing of this stuff in electrical & lighting > switches.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...?make=Mazda&model=Navajo&year=1991&vi=1191653

 

[MrShorty]

Before you get too excited about these codes, you should know that each one of those is more often than not "operator error" Specifically, KOEO/KOER 114/116 are easily triggered by running the test on a cold engine. Repeat the test, making sure to bring the engine up to normal operating temperature before doing so. KOEO 522 is often set on those vehicle with a manual transmission if the test is performed with the transmission in gear.

 

[reynold3465]

No one seems to have the oil level sensors. Is there away to reseal it mine is leaking badly also.

 

[Shooey_]

Oil level sensor leak fix?

No one seems to have the oil level sensors. Is there away to reseal it mine is leaking badly also.

I'm reviving an old post and putting out an sos. Mine works, but leaks like a sieve down the center around the connector post. Right now, all I've found is this one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231449879958?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Meanwhile, I'm going to load it up with high heat rtv and abandon the sensor until I can figure something cheaper than the ebay oem part.

Thanks in advance

 

[natenkiki2004]

I'm reviving an old post and putting out an sos. Mine works, but leaks like a sieve down the center around the connector post. Right now, all I've found is this one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231449879958?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Meanwhile, I'm going to load it up with high heat rtv and abandon the sensor until I can figure something cheaper than the ebay oem part.

Thanks in advance

Protip: The middle number is the part number. The first is the application and the last is the revision. If you have a hard time finding parts, you can often plug in the middle number and find one that looks close like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F5AF-6...ash=item35d5dce248:g:0QoAAOxy2CZTZEuu&vxp=mtr

Decoding the number, the part I listed is actually newer but an older revision. Often times, if it looks identical in physical size, it will probably work good enough. Especially in something like this where it's a basic switch, you can fudge it a bit.

Take a look:
http://www.fordification.com/tech/partnumbers_overview.htm

 

[swshawaii]

Take a look:
http://www.fordification.com/tech/partnumbers_overview.htm

GREAT info. Definitely one to save. Thanks!

 

[natenkiki2004]

Just to extend on that a bit, when I first got my Explorer, I figured I would throw some parts at it just for preventative maintenance. One of which was a new OEM O2 sensor. I researched and learned about Ford part numbers. My factory original sensor for my 1991 was a F1UF-9F472-CA. The F1 basically means that it's for a 1991 model year. The 9F472 is the part and the CA is the revision of that part. I looked and found a F4UF-9F472-CA NOS part on eBay for about $40. The only difference is that the new one was meant for a 1994 Explorer. Same generation, same function. Now it's been over 2 years and the NOS part still works great.

You'll often find that Ford does this from the factory sometimes. My 1994 has a MAF sensor from a 1991. Some parts in my 1991 are from a 1990 Bronco II. It's all in what they have in inventory when they build the car. It lets you fudge the part numbers around a bit.

If it's a hard to find part and you find one of similar vintage and identical part number, chances are good that it will work fine.

 

[Shooey_]

This is the most helpful piece of information on parts I have ever received. Thank you!
http://www.fordification.com/tech/partnumbers_overview.htm[/QUOTE]