High Mileage Maintenance.

[bosox2312]

Hello,

My Explorer ST has about 126,000 miles on it and I was wondering what maintenance I should perform at this time. I always change the oil and oil filter every 3,000 miles and put in a new air filter every other oil change. I have recently replaced the cabin air filter, rear shock absorbers, trans flush, and bought four new tires. The truck drives perfectly with lots of power (Even though it is the 4.0 v6) and does not shake or have any play in the steering. What else should I have looked at or performed? Or what can I do myself?

Thank You.

 

[samickguy15]

Sounds like you're in good shape already. I think your air filter replacement frequency is a bit much. What kind of conditions are you usually driving in? You might consider a K&N for the kind of dough you spend getting new filters all the time...

It might be a good idea to check wheel bearing. A quick clean and re-pack should be fairly easy, if it's 2WD that is. Grease all your suspension points that have grease zerks. Other than that, there's not a whole lot to do. Fuel filter maybe.

 

[chapsdeva]

When was the last time you flushed your cooling system? Flush it every 30K to keep your cooling system in top shape. Also, have you changed your serpentine drive belt or hoses? If they are the originals, at 126K you should replace them. If you haven't replaced your PCV valve you should do that as well. I assume the plugs and wires have been replaced? If not, I'd replace those too. Sound like you have a good one!

 

[willy2]

One thing to consider is getting an oil analysis done, I've used Blackstone labs, costs about $23 IIRC... They can tell you how your oil is looking (and therefore how your engine is doing).

I would consider sticking to the manufacturer recommended service schedule for the oil (5000 mi or 1 year). Especially if you get a sample or two tested and the results agree. I researched this a lot earlier this year, and came to the conclusion that for normal service 3000mi is not required, bad for the environment and a waste of money.

The other thing is a Seafoam treatment, 1/3 in the fuel tank, 1/3 in the intake (through the vacuum hose going to the brake booster) and 1/3 in the oil about 100mi before an oil change. There are how-to's on this site.

Also agree to change the plugs and leads. I've got the same mileage as you, and one of my plugs just failed. When I replaced the set, the others had big gaps and looked bad too.

Hello,

My Explorer ST has about 126,000 miles on it and I was wondering what maintenance I should perform at this time. I always change the oil and oil filter every 3,000 miles and put in a new air filter every other oil change. I have recently replaced the cabin air filter, rear shock absorbers, trans flush, and bought four new tires. The truck drives perfectly with lots of power (Even though it is the 4.0 v6) and does not shake or have any play in the steering. What else should I have looked at or performed? Or what can I do myself?

Thank You.

 

[chance942]

If you want to get a better filter DON"T buy a KN,get an oilless one,you may get lucky but more often than not the oil will foul your MAFS.

If you haven't done or know if it has been done change the FUEL FILTER(DIY)

Same w/ SPARK PLUGS,wait on the wires unless you just want to spend the money.(DIY)

An oil analysis is a great idea. As your engine wears the clearances become greater. A viscousity change may be in order. You want an oil thin enough to flow freely but thick enough to stay in place. If you are still running 5/30 it is more than likely time to get a bit more viscous.

I absolutely recommend that you use synthetic lubricants. Engine,diffs,tranny. Ofcourse keep an eye on levels.

I recommend that if you decide to do the Seafoam you search this forums and compare the ways to use it(DIY)

Serpentine belt replacement is a great idea or ATLEAST carry a spare.

Cooling system flush is a good idea,especially for your location.

PCV Valve couldn't hurt either(DIY)

Grease what you can underneath and also the hood latch,door locks,etc(DIY)

Check your CV boots for tears,any leaks. Differntial seals,etc.(DIY)

You can grease your shift linkage on your tranny.

Just for good measure(big deal on 2000 and older anyway) torque the hell out of your brake caliper bolts. Not the ones with rubber boots but those that are keeping the assembly connected to the spindle.

BRAKES!!

 

[alohamonte]

somethings i've replaced/fixed in the 125,000 - 145,000 mile window of my X's life beyond tune-up and maintenance (in no particular order) and would recoomend you keep an eye on:

1. belt, tensior, idler pulley
2. upper intake gaskets & injector o-rings
3. mass airflow sensor (MAF)
4. EGR Pressure Sensor and Control Solenoid
5. Alternator
6. rebuilt front end (ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar endlinks)
7. 4x shocks
8. multi-function switch (directional)
9. brake/stop light switch

 

[BBQ Bandit]

Don't ignore the rear leaf spring shackles... known to rot out and leave your truck disabled, high and dry, and without plenty of dollars from the repair.


Just a FYI.

 

[Paraphoe]

Good thread. Keep 'em coming guys. My trucks at 115,000 and I need to do a lot of this.

 

[UtahX]

Power Steering Fluid
Fuel Filter
Transfer Case
Check Brakes/Parking Brakes
Differential
Flush Brakes

 

[chance942]

If you "flush" the brakes yourself don't you dare let that reservoir go dry. Midas"the brake experts" don't have the tool needed to bleed the HCU. Welcome to the dealer.

You can get most of it out without this happening. I used a vac pump and my wife to watch the fluid level.(DIY,in the correct order,must be in order)

Sway bar links are a good play along with the frame bushings.(I'm pissed if yours don't make any noise!!)

 

[jlsparky7]

Seafoam seafoam seafoam!

How to in the link below.

 

[chance942]

Seafoam seafoam seafoam!

How to in the link below.

What's the best way to do it on the OHV?

 

[XLT]

It depends who you talk to. Ialways have done it through the brake booster line.

 

[jlsparky7]

What's the best way to do it on the OHV?

There is a lot of debate about it. Some people say the brake booster only gets 1/2 the cylinders. I don't see how. Those same people generally administer the seafoam by the PCV valve.

I just use the brake booster its very simple and ive seen the results on multiple vehicles. If you are nervous about that just pour 1/2 a can into your gas tank right before you fill up. Do that twice and it will help.

If you bought your EX used and don't know what oil was ran in it then it wouldn't hurt to add 1/2 a can into you crank case to mix with the oil. (no reason to drain it just leave it until the next oil change) It will break up all the garbage that low quality oils leave in your cams/lifters/oil draining system.

By doing that ^ (1/2 gas tank 1/2 crankcase) in my girlfriends zx2 escort (136,000 miles) it made a WORLD of difference. Before I added the seafoam I opened the oil cap and ran my finger over right next to one of the cam lobes and this black tar like stuff came off that felt and looked like asphalt! I couldn't believe it. Added the seafoam along with some mobile 1 extended performance. Drove from Detroit to Orlando and by the time we got there the engine was clean as a whistle! Just had a slight brown haze to it from the fresh oil. Believe it or not 40mpg at 70mph drafting a semi (automatic not manual) for the last 380 miles of the trip! Seafoam!

 

[willy2]

After you add seafoam to the oil, minimum of 30 minutes/miles and maximum 200 miles before next oil change. Here is the seafoam technical bulletin:

Sea Foam Motor Treatment used in Crankcase Oil
All Gasoline and Diesel, Rotary style engines

Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a Blended Petroleum Product, NOT A CHEMICAL and is widely used as an old oil residue reducer and moisture drier in any oil crankcase.

Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre service, old oil residue re-liquefier / cleaner / diagnostic tool, and moisture drier, and is also used as an after service additive. Sea Foam Motor Treatment does NOT add significantly to oil volume, so removing oil is NOT required for use, when used according to printed directions on the product container.

1. As a PRE SERVICE CLEANER for old oil residue, (sticky rings or valve train noise, diagnostics), pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of crankcase oil capacity including filter. (Diesels use 1 pint Sea Foam to 4 gallons of oil, please.) Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 200 miles, (Diesels 1 hour drive/run time MINIMUM) and then do your oil change service (LOF). This is the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbo & Supercharged applications where hot oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, those residues NEED CLEANING. (LOF = Lube oil & Filter service = OIL CHANGE).

2. As an AFTER SERVICE ADDITIVE into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (by mileage), put 1 ½ ounces Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase per quart of capacity as described above, then SELF SET a program to MONITOR your oil for proper level, color and clarity on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. (LOF) When the oil gets dirty, CHANGE IT!

Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re liquefy old oil residue, This will usually make your oil need changing BEFORE your normal scheduled LOF service. Only your monitoring of the oil for color and clarity can tell when it is time to do LOF (oil change service), or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Synthetic oils, both blends and 100%, were engineered and are manufactured to be 100% compatible with petroleum based oils, all brands, and vice/versa. Without compatibility, oil manufacturers and engineers would be liable for the results of mixing non-compatible lubricants.

Check your oil; monitor its level, color & clarity to determine the need for an LOF service! Change your oil when it gets dirty!

Technical Services Department July 2008 DD
Sea Foam Sales Company

If you bought your EX used and don't know what oil was ran in it then it wouldn't hurt to add 1/2 a can into you crank case to mix with the oil. (no reason to drain it just leave it until the next oil change) It will break up all the garbage that low quality oils leave in your cams/lifters/oil draining system.

 

[chance942]

There is a lot of debate about it. Some people say the brake booster only gets 1/2 the cylinders. I don't see how. Those same people generally administer the seafoam by the PCV valve.

I just use the brake booster its very simple and ive seen the results on multiple vehicles. If you are nervous about that just pour 1/2 a can into your gas tank right before you fill up. Do that twice and it will help.

If you bought your EX used and don't know what oil was ran in it then it wouldn't hurt to add 1/2 a can into you crank case to mix with the oil. (no reason to drain it just leave it until the next oil change) It will break up all the garbage that low quality oils leave in your cams/lifters/oil draining system.

By doing that ^ (1/2 gas tank 1/2 crankcase) in my girlfriends zx2 escort (136,000 miles) it made a WORLD of difference. Before I added the seafoam I opened the oil cap and ran my finger over right next to one of the cam lobes and this black tar like stuff came off that felt and looked like asphalt! I couldn't believe it. Added the seafoam along with some mobile 1 extended performance. Drove from Detroit to Orlando and by the time we got there the engine was clean as a whistle! Just had a slight brown haze to it from the fresh oil. Believe it or not 40mpg at 70mph drafting a semi (automatic not manual) for the last 380 miles of the trip! Seafoam!

Thanks for the info on that. I was asking in hopes that this user on here will read that and understand ho to do it on his OHV

I'm lucky,here anyway, I have the OHC. I believe it was from one of your posts that I saw how to rig the the "t" to run it through the IAC.

I'm going to Roswell this weekend for Labor Day and after what you wrote about the zx2 I'm going to run some the same way in my Corolla, 186k on the car and who knows how many on the '97 engine.

Thanks again

 

[jlsparky7]

After you add seafoam to the oil, minimum of 30 minutes/miles and maximum 200 miles before next oil change. Here is the seafoam technical bulletin:

Sea Foam Motor Treatment used in Crankcase Oil
All Gasoline and Diesel, Rotary style engines

Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a Blended Petroleum Product, NOT A CHEMICAL and is widely used as an old oil residue reducer and moisture drier in any oil crankcase.

Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre service, old oil residue re-liquefier / cleaner / diagnostic tool, and moisture drier, and is also used as an after service additive. Sea Foam Motor Treatment does NOT add significantly to oil volume, so removing oil is NOT required for use, when used according to printed directions on the product container.

1. As a PRE SERVICE CLEANER for old oil residue, (sticky rings or valve train noise, diagnostics), pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of crankcase oil capacity including filter. (Diesels use 1 pint Sea Foam to 4 gallons of oil, please.) Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 200 miles, (Diesels 1 hour drive/run time MINIMUM) and then do your oil change service (LOF). This is the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbo & Supercharged applications where hot oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, those residues NEED CLEANING. (LOF = Lube oil & Filter service = OIL CHANGE).

2. As an AFTER SERVICE ADDITIVE into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (by mileage), put 1 ½ ounces Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase per quart of capacity as described above, then SELF SET a program to MONITOR your oil for proper level, color and clarity on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. (LOF) When the oil gets dirty, CHANGE IT!

Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re liquefy old oil residue, This will usually make your oil need changing BEFORE your normal scheduled LOF service. Only your monitoring of the oil for color and clarity can tell when it is time to do LOF (oil change service), or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Synthetic oils, both blends and 100%, were engineered and are manufactured to be 100% compatible with petroleum based oils, all brands, and vice/versa. Without compatibility, oil manufacturers and engineers would be liable for the results of mixing non-compatible lubricants.

Check your oil; monitor its level, color & clarity to determine the need for an LOF service! Change your oil when it gets dirty!

Technical Services Department July 2008 DD
Sea Foam Sales Company

That is not what the official seafoam commercials I have seen have said. I have ran seafoam in multiple vehicles with every oil change and never had a problem.

I only do this on vehicles that had poor quality oil in them or the owner did not know what oil was used in them.

 

[willy2]

I wrote to Seafoam and asked for clarification on it, and sorry, don't have the email to quote, but the way they explained it, when you do a Seafoam (especially approaching the next oil change, in a car with a bunch of sludge already), you are going to be loosening up a lot of crap, and you want to change this oil in short order. If you had a clean engine, and added seafoam right after an oil change, then obviously there wouldn't be much getting into the oil, so you would be fine leaving it in the oil for the entire oil change interval.

 

[jlsparky7]

I wrote to Seafoam and asked for clarification on it, and sorry, don't have the email to quote, but the way they explained it, when you do a Seafoam (especially approaching the next oil change, in a car with a bunch of sludge already), you are going to be loosening up a lot of crap, and you want to change this oil in short order. If you had a clean engine, and added seafoam right after an oil change, then obviously there wouldn't be much getting into the oil, so you would be fine leaving it in the oil for the entire oil change interval.

The sludge is why you have an oil filter. Its the filter that would need to be changed if anything. Thats how I see it anyway.