Holy Overheating, Batman!

[MatthewAlan8]

Okay so I am having serious overheating issues. I thought it just was because my coolant was low but that wasn't the issue. It takes all of 2 minutes driving for my temp guage to be completely pegged and that's just driving city streets. When on the freeway, sometimes I can get it just below the red line but that's as cool as it gets.

My radiator was completely replaced 4-5 years ago and I'm concerned that could be the problem again. My heater won't heat at night when it's cooler outside and my AC won't cool when it's hot outside.

I have a picture of my pegged temp guage that I can post later but I'll assume you all know what it looks like! Any thing this could be other than radiator dying?

 

[celly]

Okay so I am having serious overheating issues. I thought it just was because my coolant was low but that wasn't the issue. It takes all of 2 minutes driving for my temp guage to be completely pegged and that's just driving city streets. When on the freeway, sometimes I can get it just below the red line but that's as cool as it gets.

My radiator was completely replaced 4-5 years ago and I'm concerned that could be the problem again. My heater won't heat at night when it's cooler outside and my AC won't cool when it's hot outside.

I have a picture of my pegged temp guage that I can post later but I'll assume you all know what it looks like! Any thing this could be other than radiator dying?

I can't offer you solutions, but I personally wouldn't drive my truck if the needle was pegged. I'd park it indefinitely until resolved.

 

[damarble]

Sounds like the coolant isn't circulating. Plugged heater core? Water pump? Fan clutch? Air in the system?

 

[dave63]

Keep driving it, and you'll have to have the entire engine replaced.


Try the thermostat, first. Cheapest solution.

 

[TheJackal]

Well it could be a lot of things but I wouldn't automatically assume the radiator first. As mentioned, your problem could be a host of different things.

 

[chance942]

Check the thermostat first. When the engine warms up if the top hose is not hot then it is stuck closed. And yeah if you keep driving it like this you won't be for long.

 

[my98nnj]

The only engine cooling device that would effect the A/C is the fan clutch. The condensor is before the radiator, so it's not effected by your cooling system per say. However, if your fan clutch has failed, it's not pulling enough air through the condensor and your radiator, thus effecting both devices.

 

[MatthewAlan8]

Thanks for the advice guys, I'm hoping it's just the thermostat not opening up. Anybody have a video or pictures that can help in my search for the thermostat? Just got done looking up how to repair it and it seems easy, just need to find it...

I have a 4.0L V6 1997 ford explorer.

 

[MatthewAlan8]

Check the thermostat first. When the engine warms up if the top hose is not hot then it is stuck closed. And yeah if you keep driving it like this you won't be for long.

I'm going to be trying this in the morning as my Haynes manual says the same thing. I'll also be checking my drivebelt.

 

[gijoecam]

Thermostat would be the first thing to check.

And if it gets to the red, you should not be driving it.

How-to? Depends... which 4.0L do you have? There are plenty of discussions on how-to all over these boards. Search and ye shall find.

 

[MatthewAlan8]

I have a SOHC I saw the how to for the OHV but that didn't help much due to the placement of the thermostat. I spent 3 hours trying to get to it (I'm still a beginner) and had no luck so I'm sitting at a shop looking at $150-$400 depending if it's the water pump or the thermostat. Praying it's the the thermostat.

 

[chance942]

You stated you are a beginner,fine. We've all made some real bonehead moves,people on here I mean,EVERYONE. If you're told otherwise yer bein fed a line os BS.

TAKE THIS ADVICE: If that shop tells you it was the waterpump ask to see the reciept for the replacement pump. Don't take any BS on this. Remember the law is on your side and if you have to call some men in blue to see that reciept do it!

From what I've heard from you I highly doubt it was a bad pump. Some guys are cutthroat like that,he'll install a $10 thermostat and charge you $400 to do it. If he says it was anything other than the thermostat ask for the reciept.

It's okay to be a beginner bud but don't get it raw dog while you learn.

Now focus your prayers on your heads not being warped to all hizzle.

 

[gijoecam]

The receipt means nothing, and odds are they won't have a receipt for a new water pump, even if they get one. If a shop has an account with a local parts store, odds are they pay it on a monthly basis in one large payment, not for each individual part. Besides, you're not entitled by any law to see a receipt for the part, nor are you entitled to know how much they paid for the part.

You are, however, entitled by FEDERAL law to the return of your old parts, except those which must be returned for a core or a warranty claim. In that case, you are entitled to inspect the old parts, but you cannot keep them. That IS a federally guaranteed right.

The simple solution is before you authorize the work, tell them you want to inspect it yourself and you want to SEE what they're saying is bad and have the tech explain WHY they think it's bad. If it smells fishy, leave.

Now, all that being said, the thermostat on the SOHC is three screws. One of them is difficult to get to, but not impossible. Remove the intake hose to give yourself some room, use a 1/4" drive ratchet and a universal joint or flex-shaft adapter and it comes right out. It's literally a 20 minute job (unless you drop the tough screw).

-Joe

 

[chance942]

The receipt means nothing, and odds are they won't have a receipt for a new water pump, even if they get one. If a shop has an account with a local parts store, odds are they pay it on a monthly basis in one large payment, not for each individual part. Besides, you're not entitled by any law to see a receipt for the part, nor are you entitled to know how much they paid for the part.

You are, however, entitled by FEDERAL law to the return of your old parts, except those which must be returned for a core or a warranty claim. In that case, you are entitled to inspect the old parts, but you cannot keep them. That IS a federally guaranteed right.

The simple solution is before you authorize the work, tell them you want to inspect it yourself and you want to SEE what they're saying is bad and have the tech explain WHY they think it's bad. If it smells fishy, leave.

Now, all that being said, the thermostat on the SOHC is three screws. One of them is difficult to get to, but not impossible. Remove the intake hose to give yourself some room, use a 1/4" drive ratchet and a universal joint or flex-shaft adapter and it comes right out. It's literally a 20 minute job (unless you drop the tough screw).

-Joe

You need to read the whole thread there Joe.

NOW with that said all I'm telling the beginner to is verify that a new pump has been put on. I only mentioned reciepts because the customer has acknowledged his wrench IQ and wouldn't be able to tell.

I once worked for a major parts hub servicing the DFW metroplex. I delivered hundreds of parts a day and ALL shops have to sign a reciept verifying that,reception of the part. They keep a copy of that,huge account or not. Just as when I picked up blocks,heads,whatever,had to sign that I got it.

You have your way and I'd sure as morning dew get the shop to show me proof of the part they put on my car.

Sometimes it comes down to your stones.I've never had a problem getting this proof.

 

[MatthewAlan8]

Okay so I feel a little stupid but the problem ended up being the radiator cap not holding pressure. Total bill is as follows:

diagnose and advise: vehicle is overheating $48.77
drain and refill cooling system $58.52

the breakdown is this:
labor: $107.29
parts: $53.50
shop supplies: $15.09
subtotal: $175.88
sales tax: $16.71
total: $192.59

he called me after they got the cap put on to tell me that I have a leak. "intake is leaking and possible timing cover gasket?" is what it says on my bill. He told me my intake manifold had a serious leak and to repair that would have taken my bill to $525.00. I declined and when I got there I asked if he could show me the leak and he told me that I'd be able to see it on my own.

I've personally now been driving for 2 days and have not seen a leak. Glad I declined even though it could be leaking. I didn't think that fix was worth nearly $350.

 

[chance942]

Dang man I wouldn't wish that on an enemy. In case you don't realize it you got seriously screwed,really,maliciously. You already knew it was over heating. He knew the cause within 5 minutes,$107 for labor?? The dealer doesn't even charge that much. What kind of cap did he put on? He charged you waaaaay to much. Was this a chain?

Matthew you aren't going to "see" an intake leak. Do you have any buddies or brothers or a tough dad? Someone with some car IQ? You need to go down there and put some muscle into this #######. Now if you go alone you'll be talking to the biggest guy in the shop and him so don't. Calling you on the phone to tell you that just completes the biotch slap. Anybody else feel free to chime in but if it was me I'd get a back and go raise some hell. He did you raw dog with no pud bro.Don't put up with that bullshit.

 

[MatthewAlan8]

I figures I was getting screwed but what could I do? I'm a big guy but that's not my style. Shops like that are why mechanics are considered shady. By the way, the shop was North Shore Automotive in Federal Way, WA. Was the price he gave for the intake manifold repair okay? Or was he trying to screw me more?

 

[chance942]

To be honest you had the word sucker on your forehead as soon as you walked in. Most people do,that's why I asked if you had anybody around with more knowledge that can go with you. I understand that it might not be your style and trust me he read that within a minute or two also. To answer your question as to whether he was trying to screw you more. Yes,big time.

Bud you need to make them explain the problem,show it to you("that employees only beyond this point sign on the shop door is BS") Yeah they could be liable and may look at you funny when you walk into the garage but do it. You have to assert yourself more man,demand that they show you,roll the car out of the bay,whatever.

Have him explain what he is showing you and why that is causing your problem.

I've never heard of the shop you mentioned. I would be looking for one that offers a nationwide warranty. What warranty did he give you on the work he did the other day?

You may not even need an intake manifold gasket,it is just something that they all eventually seem to need. Does your truck misfire,run lean,idle really bad? Call or go by and ask WHY you need those gaskets right now.

How long after you left did it take for him to call and tell you that you needed them? He probably was like "Sh*t! I could have got him good for those"! Guys like him are not shady but down right cutthroat.

 

[MatthewAlan8]

Okay the car ran well for about 2.5 months and now the problem is back and I feel even more screwed than before. I could try another radiator cap but he supposedly replaced it but maybe it was faulty? This is frustrating and I don't know enough to be worth anything in this matter. Any advice so that I don't get screwed again?

 

[MatthewAlan8]

Some symptoms.

Overheats after driving about 10 minutes.
Driving on freeway temp is ok but when I slow down it heats up.
Drove about 30 min last night and when I stopped smoke started coming out. Maybe it was steam...
Coolant level is good.
Radiator cap after driving that long amount of time was NOT hot at all.
Smoke/steam coming out of passenger side of engine.