Hood release is getting bad - steps to take before its a lost cause

[davem]

The hood release on my 2001 XLT (154k miles) is not gonna last long. I had it replaced about 4 years ago (August 2010).

It pulls hard, could feel it 'stretch', and I can barely get it to pop open. I sprayed it with some silicon lube, but it there there anything I can rig up to serve as my 'backup' plan ? Is there anything I can latch onto and let dangle as an emergency rip cord ? I still have the old cord - maybe I could use that as part of the solution ?

 

[koda2000]

lubrication (with grease) of the latch mechanism and maybe adjust hood bumpers. if necessary it can be released with a screw driver. figure out how to do this now, before the cable breaks.

when it's hard to pull it tends yo bend the metal part of the release handle, which in turn reduces the amount on travel of the cable.

 

[rb142]

Yes, you can release the latch with something like a screwdriver or a pry bar, but it isn't the easiest thing to reach. You definitely want to figure out what you need to "trip" while you can still see it before the cable breaks.

You can add another backup cable to it. I did that for a while when I was having problems with the cable. I used a heavy wire coming down such that I could reach under the bumper and pull the wire to releast the latch. Again, examine the latch mechanism while you can still get in and you should see where you can hook up another release cord.

 

[Turdle]

You might see if the metal bracket for the handle and cable is bent toward the driver seat. The part that hangs down with the cable going thru should be 90 degree bend from the rest of the bracket. even a little less is bad.
If it is bent, try bending it toward the firewall, this will increase the cable pull.

 

[drdoom]

You can replace the cable for less than $50.

 

[davem]

I had the cable replaced 4 years ago for about $150, of which about $50 was the part.

I suppose another 4 years would probably be about all I need to get out of the vehicle. Seems kinda often, though - maybe the latch unit needs some work/lube/replacement ?

 

[davem]

I wired up my own emergency rip cord wire to hopefully cover me.

I do not see anything accessible from the bottom, assuming I even owned a 24" screwdriver, to release this thing.

I tried to take some pictures, they are not great, but if you can point me towards the spot to push to open this, I'd appreciate it.

Here is a slideshow:

http://youtu.be/Dt0zKIo3Y_g

 

[SoNic67]

Mine is original cable from 2001. No issues, just lubed it a little bit today, after I took this picture.

 

[davem]

Mine is original cable from 2001. No issues, just lubed it a little bit today, after I took this picture.

Yes, I connected my emergency rip cord wire loop to the point that you circled.

But I see no way of reaching that with a screwdriver, so there is still something about this that I dont understand.

 

[SoNic67]

Maybe trough the front grille?

 

[boominXplorer]

I had the cable in my old 2000 rub the sheathing off inside the fender and ended up kinking itself every time I tried to release it until I could pull the handle all the way up and it wouldn't unlatch. I replaced the cable with a used one, sprayed everything with white lithium grease and never had another issue the few more years I had it.

 

[rb142]

I also had a cable fail. If the sheathing breaks, the cable just flexes but won't release. A new cable is the answer there. But that doesn't make it hard to pull. Hard to pull is probably a corrosion problem.

Check what is under the marked location, where the existing cable attaches (if not completely enclosed in plastic). On my Ranger, it is not possible to reach the latch through the grill. I had to reach up from the bottom -- and yes, that involves reaching your arm and a long pry tool up through a tiny space, and it is just barely possible. Better to fix the cable before it fails completely and avoid the hassle.

 

[rego]

The hood release is adjustable.

I just found this out while messing with my hard to release latch.
First off, thanks to SoNic67 for the pic in this thread that will make the fix way easier to describe.
Note the 2- 8mm bolts with fender washers. Before you loosen these, scribe a mark or use a sharpie to mark just above the upper radius of the left side washer. The mark will be on the plate not the washer.
This is a reference mark to get you back to original or to show how much it has been adjusted.
Only the left side allows up and down movement, the right side bolt is the pivot point. My latch assembly was "stuck" and needed hammer tap release it after the bolts were loosened. Corrosion maybe?
Mine went from fairly difficult to very easy to release with approximately 1/8" to 3/16" up adjustment according my mark.
Good luck.

 

[davem]

I...........
Mine went from fairly difficult to very easy to release with approximately 1/8" to 3/16" up adjustment according my mark.
Good luck.

So pivoting the mechanism basically accounts for a cable that may have been stretched ? ..... by shifting the it to the left ?

 

[rego]

It's an up and down pivot so I'm thinking adjustment just makes it easier to open. Difficult to open is what stretched the cable. But it might help an already stretched cable problem.
You have nothing to lose but 5 minutes.

 

[wxfourcastr]

Maybe trough the front grille?

Exactly.....I have to occasionally use a special rod. You can see where to place what ever you use ( screwdriver will work ) in the pic attached. Once you get it positioned gently push to the right but with pressure,

 

[davem]

I've order a new cable and plan to install it myself.

How does the cable loop connect to the latch ? I saw a square piece, near where it connects, that pivots - how does this actually connect ?