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hot swap a bleeder screw?

feedthemonkey

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Denver
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Denver, CO
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Explorer XL
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The *rear* bleeder screws are super rusty. ...I coaxed them open nonetheless and bled the system (pretty much....I don't have the ABS tool).

Got me thinking-- I should replace those bleeder screws sometime.

What do you think about "hot swapping"? Meaning, I just pull out the old one, and quickly screw in a new one. Little bit messy, but I think it happens fast. I suppose I can post a buddy at the master cylinder adding fresh brake fluid during the process so air isn't introduced from the top side.

How else would one accomplish this part swap? (DIYer in home garage)
 



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Remove one bleeder screw........install the new one while someone is SLOWLY pushing down on the brake pedal. The trick is to tighten the bleeder screw completely BEFORE the brake pedal reaches the floor. Then, do the same with the other side.
 






there will not be that much fluid lost just swapping them out
it is not like a jet of fluid starts coming out it will just slowly drip

I often bleed new brake systems by opening all 4 bleeders and let it drip out for a while, this is called "gravity bleeding"

then it only takes a little bit of actual bleeding to get any air out
 












there will not be that much fluid lost just swapping them out
it is not like a jet of fluid starts coming out it will just slowly drip

I often bleed new brake systems by opening all 4 bleeders and let it drip out for a while, this is called "gravity bleeding"

then it only takes a little bit of actual bleeding to get any air out
Gravity bleeding is very common. I use it at work a lot if I am swapping out a bleeder or doing a caliper to start the bleeding process faster. I clamp the soft rubber line with needle nose vise grips too, helps with loss of fluids. Works great, but always double check for a good peddle.
 












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