How the hell do you take out a starter on 99 explorer

[Alex7772011]

Instructions in haynes manual look easy but i cannot even get to any bolts except ground one. help please

 

[drdoom]

Try a starter wrench.

 

[96eb96]

Instructions in haynes manual look easy but i cannot even get to any bolts except ground one. help please

A bunch of long wobble extensions going toward the front of the vehicle. Its not easy. You may have to hook the socket to the bolt with your hand, then connect the ratchet somehow.

Those curved starter wrenches are 12 point, if the bolt rounds off up there you are in trouble.

 

[koda2000]

A bunch of long wobble extensions going toward the front of the vehicle. Its not easy. You may have to hook the socket to the bolt with your hand, then connect the ratchet somehow.

Those curved starter wrenches are 12 point, if the bolt rounds off up there you are in trouble.

That's how I've managed to do it in the past. Not the easiest thing to do.

 

[96eb96]

That's how I've managed to do it in the past. Not the easiest thing to do.

The top bolt came out with lots of noise and some case threads due to corrosion or galling. It was able to go back, and I used lots of anti-seize.

Now, 9 years later I heard a single click once starting(and it always starts strong) and wonder if it will come out again without breaking.

Leads look ok at the solenoid(visually), and at the relay(cleaned those), and my battery terminals are always shiny but to really test/inspect the starter end the starter has to come off. Parts store tester said everything is ok, but they can't really tell if you have a dead spot in the starter.

I would probably change the fender relay if it happens again, even if I'm not sure its that. I had those fail in the past on other fords. 20 years is pushing it.

 

[koda2000]

The top bolt came out with lots of noise and some case threads due to corrosion or galling. It was able to go back, and I used lots of anti-seize.

Now, 9 years later I heard a single click once starting(and it always starts strong) and wonder if it will come out again without breaking.

Leads look ok at the solenoid(visually), and at the relay(cleaned those), and my battery terminals are always shiny but to really test/inspect the starter end the starter has to come off. Parts store tester said everything is ok, but they can't really tell if you have a dead spot in the starter.

I would probably change the fender relay if it happens again, even if I'm not sure its that. I had those fail in the past on other fords. 20 years is pushing it.

I've used a deep socket to jump the large terminals on the fender solenoid. Try that. If the starter starts cranking the soleniod is bad, or the wire that activates/energies it may be bad. You can also CAREFULLY use a jumper cable to go from your battery to the starter to see if it will spin. Hook up the NEG cable from the battery to the engine block to insure a good ground connection while your at it. If you try this BE VERY CAREFUL with the POS lead (big sparks, much heat if you touch anything metal by mistake).

 

[jwinker]

That's how I've managed to do it in the past. Not the easiest thing to do.

I did it on my Ranger with a single U-joint and a 6" & 24" extension. I was able to come in from above between the power steering pump & exhaust, then guide the socket onto the bolt from underneath, then crank on it from above. It wasn't enjoyable, but it did eventually work.

Getting the bolt started was a totally different story. I actually considered starting the truck with only the lower bolt installed, then driving to a shop to have someone else install the upper bolt. Eventually, was able to get it to start with one person up-top running the ratchet & another underneath to guide the socket & bolt into the hole.

 

[96eb96]

I've used a deep socket to jump the large terminals on the fender solenoid. Try that. If the starter starts cranking the soleniod is bad, or the wire that activates/energies it may be bad. You can also CAREFULLY use a jumper cable to go from your battery to the starter to see if it will spin. Hook up the NEG cable from the battery to the engine block to insure a good ground connection while your at it. If you try this BE VERY CAREFUL with the POS lead (big sparks, much heat if you touch anything metal by mistake).

I know, a long time ago i didn't disconnect the battery and went to take out a starter in a Thunderbird. The craftsman flex ratchet still has metal missing from it, serves as a reminder to always disconnect the battery first when removing alternators or starters.

 

[koda2000]

I know, a long time ago i didn't disconnect the battery and went to take out a starter in a Thunderbird. The craftsman flex ratchet still has metal missing from it, serves as a reminder to always disconnect the battery first when removing alternators or starters.

I was once helping the owner of a BMW motorcycle shop diagnosis why the alternator wasn't charging on an almost new bike. He didn't disconnect the battery and he touched the "B" connector (a large metal ring connector) to the engine block and it instantly evaporated the ring connector. It was like it never existed! I've never seen anything like it. Puff and it was gone! My response was holy sh*t! His response was "huh". LMAO.

BTW, The problem turned out to be a slightly corroded connection.