How to: How To: AVM Hub Conversion, 2006 Ranger

[albi1cnobi1]

I'm getting ready to do this full mod to my 99 ex-sport . Now that its been over a year with your setup , I was wondering if there were any problems that arose with the gem module ?

Wow. Only 2 years late! I don't know how I missed this post. Sorry about that. If you still need to know, check out the link in my signature. I went in a different direction. I went with a 1354-e t-case so I used the GEM from a ranger because the t-cases are controlled differently.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

I'm getting ready to do this full mod to my 99 ex-sport . Now that its been over a year with your setup , I was wondering if there were any problems that arose with the gem module ?

WOW. Only 2 years too late! I don't know how I missed this post, sorry about that. If you still need to know, check the link in my signature. I didn't stay with the AWD GEM, I went in a different direction.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

2 years late and double posting. I need help. lol!

 

[delexploder]

Thankyou , im ordering parts to do my v8 sport and my 99 mounty along with the 4406 in both

 

[mounty71]

I thought I would post in here to get a little more feedback on the strength of these AVM hubs. I'm planning to convert my 2WD 5.0 Mountaineer to 4WD down the road and I just purchased a D35 with a locker already installed. I read this thread before but I guess it never registered with me or I skimmed over the part where it says the hub body is of a plastic-like material (whatever it is, it's not metal). Does anyone have any hard off-road experience with these? Or has anyone pushed them to the point of failure? Both people in this thread who have them say they don't do any serious off-roading. My hope is to use my truck for 4wheeling in places like the Rubicon and Truckhaven and was hoping these would be able to take the abuse. I'm not a lead-foot driver, but the Rubicon is still very hard on a vehicle. I'm trying to avoid having difficulty steering with the locker, especially because my truck sees a lot of street driving too. Or would I be better off dealing with the steering and having the stronger live-axle hubs?

 

[albi1cnobi1]

I have had these for quite some time with no issues at all. As you said, my previous posts did say that I don't do any serious off-roading. But since then my wheeling has gotten more intense as I've gone more and my son has started egging me on.(he has a jeep!) Nothing like Rubicon or Truckhaven(I've never been but have heard) but a lot of water and mud and hard driving. They do have some sort of plastic or polymer body, but they are made of the same stuff as the OEM hubs. As long as they don't take a direct hit I think you should be good. But then they would just pop off and shouldn't break. If you have any specific questions let me know.

 

[mounty71]

Ah ok, maybe I misread it then. I was under the impression these are weaker than stock live-axle hubs. I was looking at these posts on the 1st page, and then post Dead Link Removed and Dead Link Removed on page 3.

First result in my search for the conversion, nice write up. How is the strength of these? Are they as strong as what the warns were for the ttb d35? I'd like to do this to my truck since I want to lock the front, but thought I read on here that they're not as strong as just having the "live" axle type setup.

No, the AVMs are not as strong as the live axle setup.

Compared to the Warn hubs, I would the AVMs are not quite as strong - but I could be mistaken. One thing I do not like about the AVMs are the way they mount - the body is plastic, and it just pushes onto the hub. It looks like a weak link to me.

In my case, this truck doesn't see serious off-road use, so I don't foresee a problem. dkchrist has AVMs on his truck, and has not had any problems - so I don't worry too much about them.

I'm also unfamiliar with the inner workings of the 4WD hubs since I've never dealt with it before. Still, if anyone has input or first hand experience with the strength limitations, please share. It will be a while before the conversion happens for me.

 

[Definca]

I would be interested if ANYBODY is doing anything at all, in the direction of converting 3rd Gen Ex's to manual locking hubs from the live design. Currently have 05 Ex with 4wd hi/low range / auto set up. I would be willing to go to great lengths to accomplish this. I also have access to full machine shop services. Thanks,

 

[rastarke]

PVM Conversion Parts For Sale

If any one is interested, I have all the parts needed and will sell for $250.00. New axles, wheel bearings, and locking hubs. Email me if you are interested. Thanks!


/Users/rastarke 1/Desktop/Craigslist/Axles (1).jpg
/Users/rastarke 1/Desktop/Craigslist/Bearings (1).jpg
/Users/rastarke 1/Desktop/Craigslist/Hubs (1).jpg

 

[tonyt72567]

Are the parts new or used? And they will work on my 2000 explorer v8 right?

 

[Goshawk]

I've read this thread through twice but still have a couple of questions.
First and formost, does anyone know if this conversion would work on a 2003 Sport Trac? I just bought a 2003 and since I have to replace a bearing hub anyways, why not go manual locking?
Your thoughts please,
Thanks.

 

[Goshawk]

Nobody???

 

[traveler]

Ok, its time to revive an old thread again. (My specialty)

Having read the thread, I feel it can be safely said that the switchable hubs (locking hubs) are not as strong as the factory installed "live" axles. However just how "weak" are they? Has anyone who has done this swap ever had one break while wheeling? (or any other time for that matter?)

I'd love to do this swap as I spend more time on the road than on the trail.

 

[mikebolk]

I have had a few issues with these. One was an easy fix the other? well read on and you'll see..

Let's star with the easy fix:
I have had the Avm hub fly off when I hit a knarly jersey pot hole.. A couple times before I figured out a fix. I bought metal zip ties like you would use on a replacement Cv boot and zip tied it around the outside. Easy Peasy

Ok and now for the disaster:
Let me first say.. My truck is running 33s and I used a bargain hub..about 2k miles after the conversion During regular driving I had an entire hub bearing break apart wheel and brakes came off as one and went bouncing down the road (My truck handled pretty well as a 3 wheeler I must say). I slowed to a stop grinding my superlift Knuckle into the ground when the hub separated the truck Sat down on the tire and wrecked my fender as well.. Needed a new hub($200), brake line($15), a super lift knuckle($250) fender($50 craigslist perfect match), retaining ring ($20) and a new set of locking hubs ($100).. I had a spare caliper bracket laying around. I was able to salvage the brake pads rotor and caliper. It wasn't fun but at least no one got hurt... Again It was a cheap hub.. I switched to Timken and haven't had a problem since.

I have to say my mpg with these hubs is almost back to stock and I'm running 33s

I've gotta have about 30k miles on this setup now most of it on the Timken bearings.. I'm definitely pleased over all..


If I had it to do again I would have waited till I had the money to do the Timken bearings to do the conversion.

Edit August 2022 changed to moig hubs after the disaster... Ran them since... No more wheels flying off.... Definitely an issue with the Chinesium hubs.. So if you do this conversion DON'T CHEAP OUT!

 

[albi1cnobi1]

I've been running these for a few years now with no issues. In regards to the way they mount, they mount the same way as the Ford units they replace.

 

[traveler]

Thanks for the replies. Sounds like a hub swap may be in my future.

 

[Electrohacker01]

I am trying to do this modification right now and cannot get my axle seals and bearings (the ones inside the dana 35 ifs that the CV axle rides on) to come out. I also cannot find any information on this repair. HELP

 

[RangerX]

Electrohacker, I'm not familiar when the ifs at all, so I'm not sure this is what you're talking about, but check it out: http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/spring07/98_00_Ranger_hub_bearing.htm

 

[albi1cnobi1]

If they're really stuck in there you'll probably need a slide hammer seal and bearing puller. You can rent them for free or really cheap at most auto part stores. The seal will come out with a pry bar usually but the bearings are tough.

 

[Electrohacker01]

Got it out after consulting a lot of friends, with a slide hammer rig and 45 minutes of torch.

Next question. How do I seat the axle in the hub, the old one I would just draw the nut in but there's no nut and its a press fit. maybe a quick hit from the die grinder?