How to disconnect rusted P/S pressure lines? | Ford Explorer Forums

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How to disconnect rusted P/S pressure lines?

96ExplorerSport

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 9, 2006
Messages
119
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City, State
Pittsburgh PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 X Sport 4.0L OHV, 4WD
Ok
Here is the problem. I have 96 X 4.0L OHV and P/S pressure line between P/S fluid cooler and steering gear is leaking. My question is how to disconnect it from the gear. The nut looks pretty rusted and I am worried that it'll strip when I put a line wrench on it. Any ideas or suggestions? Shall I try to cut off the line and put a socket on the nut?
 



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What i would is start off by putting some pb blaster on that fitting for atleast a few days non-stop then try wrenching it with a conventional open end wrench.. If that still won't give.. you could try to heat up the ******* with mapp gas or propane and see if the heat will help the expansion & contraction of it.
 






Use a flare wrench.
BW_Flare_Wrenches2.jpg
 






BrooklynBay,
There is not enough room there for flare wrench. The steering gear is still in the car and cross member is in the way. I plan on using flare nut crowfoot wrench instead. It's also an odd size, 18mm. I am worried that I get it stripped with flare wrench.

Is it safe to use heat for P/S line? There is oil all around it.
 






keep a fire extuingisher wow i cant spell. but the fluid is flamable...
 






my guess is that you will have more luck cutting the line off and using a socket on it. In terms of heating, you could try a heat gun instead of an open flame torch.
 












Thanks guys,
Fun will start tonight :)
 


















This will be my last resort since it'll require removing steering gear from the X. I'd like to avoid it if possible.
 






IMO I would try the PB Blaster for a couple days before, as often as you can, then wire brush the visible rust off of the nut part of the hose so you can get a good grip, cut the line and try a socket. You're going to have to change the hose anyway, so cutting it would only make it easier to work with.
 






definitely go the socket route, otherwise I guarantee you will round the bolt and you won't have much fun after that happens. Don't use heat, it's bad for the seals and it's bad for the fluid, the last thing you want to do is replace your whole rack/pump assembly. Good luck.
 






A line wrench does it 99% of the time. Although it's rusty on the surface, the mating treads are seldom rusted beyond the first half thread or so. The key is to use a line wrench (AKA flare nut wrench) so that it grabs all six faces of the nut, not just two.

-Joe
 






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