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How To: Doonze's Ultimate Radiator Flush!

92exp4x4

Elite Explorer
Joined
February 5, 2003
Messages
1,666
Reaction score
283
City, State
Covington, Kentucky
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 XL 2-door and others
Doonze, I like the hose connector in the heater hoses, I have not seen those before.

I think the only first gens with the vacuum valve are 94s. I had one explode on my 94. My 92s and the 93 do not have this valve.

While flushing the system, its the perfect time to upgrade to a two row radiator. I cleaned the system on the 92 sport i just got. I had an extra 2 row laying around so I slapped it in there. You just have to get a 2 row fan shroud, the single is too deep and it hits the motor.

Just don't run the motor with the trans cooler lines open. You get a big mess!
 


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chickensalad

New Member
Joined
December 19, 2010
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
City, State
HP, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 XLT 4x4
i got a first gen '92 and when i went to put some water the other day it had alot of gunk and stuff but i mean alot... should i be concerned??? everything seems to be fine right now... i just wanna knw in advance... thanx
 




phigh

New Member
Joined
January 12, 2012
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
City, State
Wilmington, North Carolina
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer
Hi,
I need some help! How much trouble is it to replace the instrument panel lights on a 1999 Ford, Explorer, and how do I go about it??
Phigh
 




Joined
January 1, 2012
Messages
36
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0
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 ford explorer EB
antifreeze leak

i have a 1991 ford explorer eddie bauer. it has 170,000 miles on it. so when i got it it was leaking anitfreeze. it was coming out of the radiator cap and the lower raditor hose on the driver side of the vehicle that runs to the waterpump. so i got a new cap and i drained the antifreeze and removed all rubber hoses and cleaned the tupe and the fittings on the radiator and waterpump. this worked for about a week when my tire went flat so i let it sit for about 3 days. i drove it only a few miles yesterday, and now its leaking out of that same hose, but is also leaking out of all the other rubber hoses that come out of the radiator.

does anyone know of this roublem or what it could be? and how i can fix it. thx
 




95 Exploder XLT

New Member
Joined
January 23, 2012
Messages
1
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City, State
Holly Springs, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 Explorer XLT 4.0 4x4
Radiator, Rhermostat, and Transmission Flush

First time changing out a radiator, thermostat, etc. I hope I have done everything correctly. Once again, I have a 95 Exploder XLT 4x4 4dr with 151,000 miles as of today.

(Begin with this PAGE)

REMOVAL OF RADIATOR

1. PRAY!
2. Disconnect NEGATIVE battery cable.
3. Spray ALL areas to be broken loose and/or ‘removed’ with Liquid Wrench.
4. After making sure there is a catch pan underneath the radiator, open the radiator drain. Leave opened & let drain.
5. Remove the intake hose area by disconnecting the mass air flow thingy & the other attached connections (both sensor plugs, and the vacuum line). Just get this thing out of your working area!
6. Using the (2) proper tools you will now “break” loose the fan clutch bolt from the water pump pulley.
7. Now, you should be able to fairly easily spin the plastic fan off with your hand.
8. Remove the (2) bolts from the fan shroud, both located at top.
9. Remove reservoir hose from radiator filler neck.
10. Pull out the fan & shroud together. You will now have full access to the radiator hoses.
11. Disconnect the entire upper radiator hose. Inspect hose. Clean if necessary.
12. STOP. Make sure there is a catch pan underneath the lower radiator hose area(s); carefully disconnect it because it WILL drain liquid. Inspect hose. Clean if necessary.
13. Using the (2) proper tools you will now disconnect BOTH transmission lines. Be sure not to bend transmission lines!
14. Remove the (2) bolts from the radiator, both located at top.
15. Pull out old radiator.
16. STOP. The next procedure is: REMOVAL OF THERMOSTAT.

REMOVAL OF THERMOSTAT

1. Remove the (2) bolts from the throttle cable cover. Set aside the housing.
2. Disconnect the belt pulley. Use ratchet.
3. Place the loose belt above itself (near alternator area).
4. Remove ALL (3) bolts on thermostat housing. (One bolt is easy to remove; one is underneath & hard to see; and the 3rd bolt is a pain in butt to remove).
5. Remove the thermostat housing. Inspect housing. Clean if necessary.
6. Pop out the old thermostat. It may need a wiggle. Inspect it. Notice if a gasket was/is on it. (We may need one if the new thermostat does not have a gasket).
7. Install the new thermostat with vent hole facing top, (12 o’clock).
8. Reconnect the thermostat housing, starting with the pain in butt bolt.
9. STOP. Go to: INSTALLATION OF RADIATOR procedure

INSTALLATION OF RADIATOR

1. First, compare the old radiator with the new radiator.
2. ALL missing hardware (radiator cap & two bolts) from the old radiator must be installed onto the new radiator. The (2) transmission bolts should be hand-tightened onto the new radiator. Not necessary, but if no sealant included, use Teflon tape around threads.
3. Reinstall pulley.
4. Reinstall belt, making certain the belt is firmly in place and is correctly inserted into the grooves.
5. Slide the new radiator into place—it sits on perches.
6. Install the (2) bolts into the radiator, both located at top.
7. Using the (2) proper tools you will now reconnect BOTH transmission lines.
8. Reconnect lower radiator hose.
9. Reconnect the upper radiator hose, also making certain that ALL other hoses are returned to their appropriate housing stations.
10. Slip the fan & shroud into place, just as you removed it.
11. Line up the attached threaded fan bolt to the fan hole.
12. Reconnect the fan by hand-spinning the fan into hole firmly, then using the (2) proper tools tighten fan further onto pulley.
13. STOP. The LAST procedure is: COOLANT INSTALLATION.

(Begin this page LAST)

COOLANT INSTALLATION

1. Make certain radiator drain plug is closed & the reservoir hose is connected to both the radiator and reservoir tank.
2. Fill coolant system with antifreeze-water mixture. (Use 50/50 mixture. Do not exceed 70% of straight anti-freeze into radiator!)
3. Reconnect NEGATIVE battery cable.
4. Start engine.
5. Check for leaks.
6. Allow engine to get to “normal” temperature—you will have reached “normal” temperature when the upper radiator hose gets hot.
7. Re-check coolant level & coolant reservoir. Adjust if necessary.
8. STOP. You now have 2 choices:
a. Drop Transmission pan & dump ALL existing transmission.*
b. TRANSMISSION FLUSH! (This procedure will pressure-clean/vacuum the torque converter, orifices, and other housing areas for transmission, but will not clean the transmission filter fluid).
9. Pray again, and thank God for His guidance. 


*STEP 8a: CHANGING EXISTING FLUID IN THE TRANSMISSION SYSTEM

1. Remove the transmission pan.
2. Remove the old transmission filter.
3. Replace with a new transmission filter.
4. Remove the old pan gasket material.
5. Replace the pan gasket with a new gasket.
6. Reinstall the pan.
7. Refill the transmission with new transmission fluid.
8. TRANSMISSION FLUSH! (Includes the torque converter and transmission cooler).
 




larrydd999

Elite Explorer
Joined
December 14, 2010
Messages
443
Reaction score
15
City, State
Port Angeles, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 XLT, 94 Limited
Older thread, but something I learned today may be of value: I was replacing the thermostat to see if it's the cause of my temperature gauge moving excessively (it may also be the thermostatically controlled fan) when I noticed brown liquid coming from the radiator drain, obviously rust. When removing the thermostat housing above the water pump I noticed the inside of the pipe was very rusty and probably not far from leaking through. Needless to say I'm replacing that part before I complete the job. Also, whenever working in the front of the engine I disconnect and completely remove the battery. This gives much better access to the belt tensioner as well as everything else in the area. It also removes any possibility of getting a wrench across the battery posts.
 




ambrosiaB

Active Member
Joined
July 29, 2013
Messages
61
Reaction score
0
City, State
fort worth, tx
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Ford Explorer
I have an aftermarket radiator and the flush and fill yellow neck thingy doesn't fit in it. er it doesn't snap in like the package says it should. should I use the upper hose? thanks! great write up by the way!
 




brain_spoon

New Member
Joined
October 29, 2016
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Port Townsend WA
City, State
Nordland WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
Great thread.

I recently had mine serviced, and I watched as they bled the radiator (because they were almost done and it was parked outside the service bay). They didn't wait until the temp gauge read anywhere near "NORMAL", just until it started moving. I noticed that it was staying below NORMAL while I drove it, sometimes it seemed that it didn't even register, but now a week later it's on the 'N' when it warms up. Then it'll sink back down almost to the lowest mark on the gauge.

Do I need a new temp sensor/sender? They're like $25 on Amazon
 




natenkiki2004

Blue Bomb!
Elite Explorer
Joined
November 3, 2013
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77
Location
North Idaho
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 & 1994 Explorers
Great thread.

I recently had mine serviced, and I watched as they bled the radiator (because they were almost done and it was parked outside the service bay). They didn't wait until the temp gauge read anywhere near "NORMAL", just until it started moving. I noticed that it was staying below NORMAL while I drove it, sometimes it seemed that it didn't even register, but now a week later it's on the 'N' when it warms up. Then it'll sink back down almost to the lowest mark on the gauge.

Do I need a new temp sensor/sender? They're like $25 on Amazon
Try and find a long hill to drive up in D or 2 to see if you can get it to O or R on the gauge. I'm in north Idaho, not quite as north as you and mine likes to sit on N, sometimes O and when it's cold out and I'm driving on the highway, it will sit below N. My system is completely serviced and working properly with a quality thermostat and I get tons of heat. The previous thermostat I had in it would wait until A or L to open up and then drop way past N and then close and go back up, it fluctuated a lot. The current thermostat is a lot smoother. To me, it sounds like yours is a bit cool but not worryingly cold. Just see if you can get it to warm up more.
 








larrydd999

Elite Explorer
Joined
December 14, 2010
Messages
443
Reaction score
15
City, State
Port Angeles, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 XLT, 94 Limited
Our '92 and '94 have the same model thermostat. The indicator on the '92 goes past mid-range as it warms up, then stays around the 'o' unless going up a hill. The '94 never goes past the 'n' when warming up and stays just past the first mark (below the 'n') once up to temperature. I've checked the radiator and engine temperatures at various locations with a thermal 'gun' and when warm they're within a couple of degrees of each other.
 




Rhett

Let Them Eat Cake
Elite Explorer
Joined
May 13, 2000
Messages
4,661
Reaction score
95
City, State
Cape Girardeau, MO
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Sport 4x4
If it means anything, my '94 is the same as Larry's, it rarely gets much past the "N", and my sys is working perfectly as best I can tell -- properly bled / new stat/pump etc.
 




brain_spoon

New Member
Joined
October 29, 2016
Messages
5
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0
Location
Port Townsend WA
City, State
Nordland WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
Well, the gauge still seems to be asleep sometimes. But the heater works, so I'm not too worried.
 




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