How To Program Extra 2016 Key Fobs??? | Ford Explorer Forums

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How To Program Extra 2016 Key Fobs???

Bill #5 Explorer

Explorer Addict
Joined
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City, State
Chicago Area
Year, Model & Trim Level
2016 Explorer XLT
Does anyone know how to do this? I was able to self program my 2011 Intelligent Key fobs (page #157 of the Owner's Manual), but these instructions have been removed from the 2016 owner's manual. It's a process of having all the original keys (2) in the cabin, new one in the center console, hit the door locks, hit the brake peddle, all in a special sequence.

FYI. These are the Intelligent Key fobs with the remote start function and keyless push button start.

Thanks.
 



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Well, it seems like this has to be done by the dealership via computer. No more onboard ability like my 2011. Charges will be about $60 to program the fob(s).
 






Really that does suck...I have to look into this....thinking about picking up a 2016 in the near future.
 






Looked it up...IKTs you can program with two existing ones but not IA. Sounds like a good time to negotiate a 3rd one is during the initial vehicle purchase.
 






Looked it up...IKTs you can program with two existing ones but not IA. Sounds like a good time to negotiate a 3rd one is during the initial vehicle purchase.

Correct.

Good idea on the 3rd key negotiation. An IA Key Fob is about $180 (blank key and new fob....2 separate part numbers) plus another $60-70 for programing. FYI.
 






Maybe this will help future Explorer enthusiasts. Here are the part numbers:

Key Fob Only (all you really need) 164.R7989 (over $150)
Uncut key concealed blade (not really needed) 164.R7992 (over $20)
Dealership programing required, about $70
 






You can program IA keys with the Explorer as long as you have two admin keys. The 2018 fob works on 2016's too.

1. You must have two working IA keys
2. Insert the 1st working key into the key slot in the center console. Key ring up buttons out.
3. Push the start/stop button and wait 5 seconds.
4. Push the start/stop button.
5. Remove the 1st key and place the 2nd working key in the key slot in the center consule. Key ring up buttons out.
6. Push the start/stop button and wait 5 seconds.
7. Push the start/stop button.
8. Remove the 2nd key and place the new key to be programmed in the key slot. Key ring up buttons out.
9. Push the start/stop button and wait 5 seconds.
10. Push the start/stop button.
 






You can program IA keys with the Explorer as long as you have two admin keys. The 2018 fob works on 2016's too.

1. You must have two working IA keys
2. Insert the 1st working key into the key slot in the center console. Key ring up buttons out.
3. Push the start/stop button and wait 5 seconds.
4. Push the start/stop button.
5. Remove the 1st key and place the 2nd working key in the key slot in the center consule. Key ring up buttons out.
6. Push the start/stop button and wait 5 seconds.
7. Push the start/stop button.
8. Remove the 2nd key and place the new key to be programmed in the key slot. Key ring up buttons out.
9. Push the start/stop button and wait 5 seconds.
10. Push the start/stop button.

THANK YOU FOR THIS! My (2107 Sport) owner's manual instructions start with "Insert the first previously programmed coded key into the ignition..." and go on from there. I have a start button and therefore no "ignition" in which to insert a "key."

I found so many bad videos on YouTube, many of which claiming that an OBD module is needed. These instructions worked perfectly.
 






THANK YOU FOR THIS! My (2107 Sport) owner's manual instructions start with "Insert the first previously programmed coded key into the ignition..." and go on from there. I have a start button and therefore no "ignition" in which to insert a "key."

I found so many bad videos on YouTube, many of which claiming that an OBD module is needed. These instructions worked perfectly.
So it even works on a 2107 Sport. Good to know.;)

Peter
 






So it even works on a 2107 Sport. Good to know.;)

Peter

Yes, the instructions posted by @PlatinumOwner are exactly correct for my 2017 Sport with push-button start and 5-button remote, both the OEM Ford remote and the aftermarket remote that I just bought and programmed. The seller's picture doesn't show it but there are two 2025 batteries, the bottom one positive side up and the top one positive side down, and a piece of material that goes in between the two batteries to keep them from contacting each other. Also the little metal brackets that contact the batteries (farthest right picture) fall out very easily and must be reinserted correctly.

Remote.jpg


The instructions that are in my owner's manual, as well as every other source that I can find, say that you need two remotes already programmed so that you may program a new third remote, and if you only have one programmed remote you need to go to a Ford dealership to have a second (and third) remote programmed by them, with an associated fee supposedly somewhere in the $300 range. I seem to recall going through this process a few years ago and being confused by the contradictory and less-than-clear instructions that I found at the time. I had two programmed remotes, but I only brought one with me to the vehicle and used it to program the new remote. This worked, but the third remote that I had left inside the building no longer matched the other two and would not start the vehicle. I had to use the two now-functioning remotes to reprogram the now-not-functioning OEM Ford remote. So take that story with a grain of salt, as my memories are fuzzy on a good day, but maybe try the instructions first even if you only have one functioning remote before throwing money at Ford.

An interesting bit of information that answered some lingering questions for me is that you can program a remote for your vehicle, and then take out the batteries and hide it in your vehicle like one of the old "hide-a-keys" from when we used metal keys inserted in ignitions. As long as the batteries are removed, your vehicle won't detect it and honk at you every time you exit and leave the hidden remote inside. The if you ever lose your keys or have them stolen, you can unlock the vehicle using the numbered door panel, then put the remote without batteries inside the programming slot and the vehicle will start and drive as usual, keeping you from being stuck in a potentially bad situation. I have not tried this but I figure it's at least worth knowing.

Now I just need to find a place that can cut my new remote's blank key (that I didn't buy from them) for less than $300.
 






I think you missed the point of my post. a 2107 Sport hasn't been produced yet. ;)
A key locked inside the vehicle should deactivate itself after a certain time period and has to be reactivated for it to work, If this is so, then the batteries shouldn't have to be removed. I tested and confirmed it although I can't recall which vehicle it was.

Peter
 






I think you missed the point of my post. a 2107 Sport hasn't been produced yet. ;)
A key locked inside the vehicle should deactivate itself after a certain time period and has to be reactivated for it to work, If this is so, then the batteries shouldn't have to be removed. I tested and confirmed it although I can't recall which vehicle it was.

Peter

What do you mean be "deactivate" and "reactivate"? Do you mean no longer programmed and then will need to be reprogrammed? If so, sounds like leaving it in the vehicle with batteries removed is the better way to go. (I come from the future and we're still figuring these things out.)

Edited to add: The whole point of leaving the batteryless remote in the vehicle is so that you will still be able to drive the vehicle if your other fobs are lost or stolen. If you leave a remote in the vehicle with the batteries still in it and it becomes "deactivated" and you lose or have your other functioning remote(s) stolen you'll have only a deactivated remote and no way to immediately reprogram it.

Reddit edit: This was just posted on Reddit, so apparently time travelers are on the loose today.

3010 03.jpg
 






What do you mean be "deactivate" and "reactivate"? Do you mean no longer programmed and then will need to be reprogrammed? If so, sounds like leaving it in the vehicle with batteries removed is the better way to go. (I come from the future and we're still figuring these things out.)

Edited to add: The whole point of leaving the batteryless remote in the vehicle is so that you will still be able to drive the vehicle if your other fobs are lost or stolen. If you leave a remote in the vehicle with the batteries still in it and it becomes "deactivated" and you lose or have your other functioning remote(s) stolen you'll have only a deactivated remote and no way to immediately reprogram it.

Reddit edit: This was just posted on Reddit, so apparently time travelers are on the loose today.

View attachment 453619
No programming is lost. When you lock the fob in the car and the perimeter alarm activates after 20 seconds, the fob goes to sleep.
This is from the 2011 Explorer Owner's Manual;

1718983755007.png


I tried it with my 2023 Aviator and it doesn't work. You could try it with yours and see if this feature is still valid.

Peter
 






No programming is lost. When you lock the fob in the car and the perimeter alarm activates after 20 seconds...

Yes, this is exactly what the remote without batteries avoids.
 






Yes, this is exactly what the remote without batteries avoids.
The perimeter alarm will activate after 20 seconds after turning the vehicle OFF regardless of whether there is s key inside it or not.
It is part of the normal function.

Peter
 






The perimeter alarm will activate after 20 seconds after turning the vehicle OFF regardless of whether there is s key inside it or not.
It is part of the normal function.

Peter

Okay, got it. So you can leave a remote with batteries in the vehicle, and it will work to start the vehicle when you press "unlock," just like every remote ever, or you can leave a remote without batteries in the vehicle, which will only start the vehicle if you know how to get it to work for the specific make, model, and year of the vehicle, and know where the programming slot is in the specific make, model, and year of the vehicle.

This is the second time for me programming a remote in five years and I still had to read the owner's manual (which was wrong), and read several (contradictory) threads, and watch several (wrong) videos online before finding this thread. I'm going to assume that the average car thief knows how to use a remote and doesn't know off the top of their head how to program one for a 2017 Ford Explorer Sport. But it's good to have options, I guess.
 






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