How To: Replacing Upper Ball Joints on a 3rd Gen 4x4 [Pictures]

[roush9799]

I got mine done yesterday. I also did the tie rod ends since the boots were shot on them too, plus I'm getting it aligned. Now I have a completely greasable front end.

TIP: One problem I had was when removing the hub assembly, I couldn't get it low enough to clear the bottom ball joint, as I was replacing uppers and lowers. To gain a lot more room in there, I found that removing the caliper, and also removing the axle nut, I was able to set the caliper on a 5 gallon bucket behind the axle. I was able to slide the shaft in, and set it up sort of on the sway bar way out of my way when working on the bottom. As for the axle assembly, I set it forward of the axle our of my way. That gave me plenty of room to get in there and tackle these things. I went ahead and removed the upper a-arm. I tried to get the tool at it, but it was no use. Plus I had a 50 ton shop press to push them in and out with. Bottoms, I used the tool no problem.

TIP: I had trouble getting the bottoms to separate. The separator didn't have enough pitch to do the job, so I took 2 large flat washers and cut a section out of them and placed in there, then drove the tool in with that and they popped right apart.

 

[WGCx2]

Alignment after ball joint replacement

Also note that in the 2002-2005 models, shims are used here. I will picture them below. They MUST be put back in when re-installing!

This is an excellent write up and I completed the job on my 04 this weekend. My driver side rear bearing also needed replacing but I didn't want to deal with pressing old one out/new one in so I took it to my mechanic. I also asked him to do the front end alignment for me. He called to say that the shims should not have been reinstalled and he couldn't do the alignment job with out removing the shims. Has anyone else heard this?

 

[ddennigmann]

DonnieD 2002 Explorer

"Sorry man.....totally frustrated. Please help me out....I got the kits and parts listed, have removed control arms, but cannot get the ball joints out of the control arm.? Should I take to a machine shop and get them to do?

 

[thepotroast]

"Sorry man.....totally frustrated. Please help me out....I got the kits and parts listed, have removed control arms, but cannot get the ball joints out of the control arm.? Should I take to a machine shop and get them to do?

You're unable to press them out using the press kit described in this write up? Make sure you're using the correct sized adapter that will push through the hole, and that you aren't pressing on the arm itself. If you don't line the press up correctly centered and straight, you'll never get those out of there.

 

[Limited02]

You're unable to press them out using the press kit described in this write up? Make sure you're using the correct sized adapter that will push through the hole, and that you aren't pressing on the arm itself. If you don't line the press up correctly centered and straight, you'll never get those out of there.

That and make sure you are pressing the correct way. I posted on page 8 post #152 of what I used and the direction you'd go to remove/reinstall.

Potroast - Looks like some of your pictures in the original post are not showing up?

 

[rrack]

Curious how long the upper control arm bushings last? Or is there a way to check the arm itself. This 05 Mountaineer AWD has about 131k and I just discovered some odd inside edge tire wear while installing some quick struts. I'm debating between only the ball joints vs the entire upper arms with new ball joints preinstalled? As far as that goes, I don't even know if they need replacing. The boots are shreaded though. I do like the greaseable option of aftermarket ball joints.

It looks like I can get a set of the arms for around $100 vs joints for under $30 a pair. Just didn't want to have to do it again if the arms themselves should go as well.

 

[rrack]

Curious how long the upper control arm bushings last? Or is there a way to check the arm itself. This 05 Mountaineer AWD has about 131k and I just discovered some odd inside edge tire wear while installing some quick struts. I'm debating between only the ball joints vs the entire upper arms with new ball joints preinstalled? As far as that goes, I don't even know if they need replacing. The boots are shreaded though. I do like the greaseable option of aftermarket ball joints.

It looks like I can get a set of the arms for around $100 vs joints for under $30 a pair. Just didn't want to have to do it again if the arms themselves should go as well.

 

[thepotroast]

Potroast - Looks like some of your pictures in the original post are not showing up?

Thanks for letting me know!

I just re-uploaded all of the original pictures and hosted them on a new platform! Sorry everyone, I do check this post often so I think the pics just disappeared maybe a couple of weeks ago max. They should now be back for everyone!

 

[Limited02]

Thanks for letting me know!

I just re-uploaded all of the original pictures and hosted them on a new platform! Sorry everyone, I do check this post often so I think the pics just disappeared maybe a couple of weeks ago max. They should now be back for everyone!

 

[rrack]

Just fyi... Every AZ store manager told me the same. Duralast ball joints are Moogs but just sold to AZ for their house brand lable. Side by side they look identical. However, the upper Duralasts no longer have the zerk fittings. I hit 4 different AutoZones and called a few more to pull em and check. Every single one is sealed. However, they still say greaseable. After looking real closley, the end of the boot has a slight squared off area and it looks like it's for adding grease with a needle. After pulling a Moog from another parts house, they are identical even with the same cut out in the boot and no grease fitting. I was told that the newer model Moogs no longer have the grease fittings anyway. Who knew?

Fixing to tackle the lowers. However, I can't find good info. This is an 05 Mountaineer with AWD. I've read other threads stating definitely not to remove the CV axle and leave the knuckle in place. How the heck is this possible? Is there enough room for the press to get under the axle? Is there a thread for AWD or 4WD lower ball joints somewhere that I'm not finding?

Thanks guys! Haven't turned wrenches in years but this economy has forced me to get back at it.

 

[areevet]

Awesome write up and should bushings be changed as well?

This is a fantastic write up! Nothing like I've seen before!
I have an '02 Explorer with 225k miles and I am willing to bet that there are the original upper and lower ball joints on both sides. Would it be wise to replace the whole control arm which comes with new bushings/nuts/pins/etc? Or should I just replace the bushings and joints? (My Haynes manual mentions the same thing in this original thread about "not being able to replace the ball joints only)

I think AdvanceAuto/OReilly/Autozone has the Driveworks control arm for $83 while the Moog is $180. With 225k miles, living in Michigan, and a teenager driving this vehicle, I'm not sure I want to invest the extra $100/side.

Any advise would be appreciated and are the bushings relatively easy to replace?

Ted
'02 Explore -r Eddie Bauer

 

[Ambient]

I found out the hard way, If Replacing Upper Ball Joints on Explorers listed in this Post, Use "Moog K80008". They are over Sized (0.010 , 0.012) to make a tight fit, Listed as "Problem Slover" ... The exact Replacement of OE will just pop right out. Had both sides done using OE and then just checking put a pry bar between the controll arm & the spring and with a small amount of pressure the control arm flexed down and the ball joints pushed right out of the arm. Once the Moog K80008's were installed the arm could not be moved with the pry bar..I hope this helps Someone from repeting the aggravation of repeting the installation...

 

[extra-medium]

I got AutoExtra ball joints from Summit when I replaced mine. They are a tight fit and the top piece is a metal plate, not plastic like the stock ones. Also, I haven't read a lot in this thread since it is so long, but with a "C" clamp ball joint tool that I borrowed from a buddy I did not need to take the whole control arm out. That adds on way more work and aggravation that is unnecessary.

 

[Crazyatvspaz]

oh what fun....

After reading this write up I decided to give it a shot. I would not recommend doing this without air tools, I'm in NY and the salt corroded the hardware so bad I was using a breaker bar to get the nuts off. I bought ball joints from Ad. Auto. After using their press (which yet again a impact would have been easier), I found that the ball joints poped back threw the control arm. I did use the press correctly. Basically I'm a poor college student with some shade tree mechanic knowledge trying to save some money. After spending the 30 bucks for ball joints and the headache of doing it twice, I hope anyone that reads this just buys 2 new arms and avoids the trouble. For 120 bucks everything is new. I do appreciate this site and in no way have anything bad to say about the write up. It just makes sense to buy a new arms. Have fun wrenching and drive safe

 

[02XLS4WD]

After reading this write up I decided to give it a shot. I would not recommend doing this without air tools, I'm in NY and the salt corroded the hardware so bad I was using a breaker bar to get the nuts off. I bought ball joints from Ad. Auto. After using their press (which yet again a impact would have been easier), I found that the ball joints poped back threw the control arm. I did use the press correctly. Basically I'm a poor college student with some shade tree mechanic knowledge trying to save some money. After spending the 30 bucks for ball joints and the headache of doing it twice, I hope anyone that reads this just buys 2 new arms and avoids the trouble. For 120 bucks everything is new. I do appreciate this site and in no way have anything bad to say about the write up. It just makes sense to buy a new arms. Have fun wrenching and drive safe

X2. I replaced the entire unit and my Ex has 12 years of corrosion so an impact was a must. I picked one up cheap at Harbor Freight, worth its weight in gold.

 

[5whiskey]

Excellent write up... now just waiting to see if my joints pop out. I did mine in about 2.5 hours. As others have said, no need to remove the control arm. The new ones also pressed in very tight so I don't foresee any issues.

I'm thinking about doing the lowers BJs and the tie rod end as well in a few weeks. Just so it's all done.

 

[areevet]

The front end big job for my 02 Explorer Eddie Bauer

I just completed this front end ball joint job with the help of this post.
Also, I changed the tie rod ends, brake pads and rotors, and CV axle half shafts. So, I spent the better part of a weekend with my head in the wheel well of my vehicle.

A few items to note that I can pass on as lessons learned:

1. Living in the "salt zone", spray all bolts and nuts with some type of penetrator (50/50 ATF and Acetone, PB Blaster, Liquid wrench, etc) and let it sit overnight.
:thumbdwn:

2. I reserved the ball joint press fit tool from Advance auto for $180 which they immediately took out of my account, but they took 2-3 business days to replenish my deposit.
:thumbdwn:

3. I ordered my ball joints, CV axle half shafts, tie rod ends, rotors and brake pads from Rock-Auto.com. The parts were half the cost as any of the parts stores even with shipping. You just have to wait for delivery which is usually from 4-6 business days unless you choose 2 or 3 day delivery for about $16 and $8 more respectively.


4.Watch as many youtube videos as you can concerning these changes you are about to do. I picked up a lot of tips such as the lower ball joints have a notch in the rubber portion that must be pointed inboard. It's written on the part, but I wouldn't have known that if I had not watched a video.


5. I took off my upper control arm as I replaced the whole thing since the bushings needed replacing as well. It was squeaky.


6. Once these parts are changed, you typically have to get an alignment. I took my Explorer to Belle Tire and they wouldn't do the alignment since they said all four tires have to be aligned together and my rear ball joints were bad enough that it wasn't worth it. I first thought they just wanted the $400 to change to ball joints, but I realized that both rear uppers were bad. Lesson learned is to verify your rear ball joints don't need replacing too before going in for the alignment.
Perhaps Ford Explorers do not need to be aligned with all 4 tires at the same time, but that's what they told me.
:thumbdwn:

7. Make sure the tool you borrow from the auto store actually works and functions before you leave the store. The press tool I took home has some stripped threads on the large screw from the prior user. I live 20 miles from the store so it was a pain to return and the drive back with the good tool.

 

[5whiskey]

2. I reserved the ball joint press fit tool from Advance auto for $180 which they immediately took out of my account, but they took 2-3 business days to replenish my deposit.:thumbdwn:

I had this same problem with O'reilly. Not the end of the world but pretty annoying.

I'm with you areevet... btw good "lessons learned" advice you're posting.

Also... I know quite a bit back in this thread people were saying that their ball joints popped out after being pressed in. Because of this I took it easy on mine for a few weeks. Went to the beach fishing last weekend (driving on the beach). While I didn't rawhide it or anything, I didn't exactly treat my truck like it would break at any moment. Ball joints held fine, I even bottomed the suspension kind of hard a couple of times (which is the only way the ball joint would push out after being pressed in as far as I can tell). So... I guess if anyone is worried about pressing new joints in as opposed to buying UCAs, I had good luck. Just passing it on.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Great writeup, I found 1000 videos of home mechanics replacing the entire arm and I bought the ball joints individually. Even a few shops (the ones that failed my Explorer for ball joints) said that you HAD to replace the entire arm and you couldn't replace just the ball joints.

I've done ball joints on other vehicles in the past, so I didn't understand why everyone does it that way. Thank you OP.

 

[motc777]

I saw that mine were craptastic. Didn't know that this was the part, so whomever made the decision to sticky this, it helped me find out the answer to my question.

To the OP, your documentation looks fantastic. I plan on tackling this job soon.