How To: Replacing Upper Ball Joints on a 3rd Gen 4x4 [Pictures] | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How To: Replacing Upper Ball Joints on a 3rd Gen 4x4 [Pictures]

Wishing I would have looked on here before I went to Auto Zone lol.........just got back home and realized the tool I have will not work. The local auto zone said they do not have adapters for the ball joint tool. Since the part number for the adapters is listed on here, i called back with the part number......imagine that, they DO have it! Headed back into town tonight, should finish this up tomorrow am.
 



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Thanks Pot Roast

Finally, i built up the confidence to do this myself after reading Pot Roast's very impressive post. My Mechanic wanted me to buy the control arms, thank God i came across you post Pot Roast. I am attempting the front upper and lower ball joints and the sway bars as well on my 2003 Ford Explorer Xlt, 4.0 2wd. I am using Moog Parts and i also rented from Advanced Auto parts, the Ball joint press kit #940579. I want to take pics or record the whole process. I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Cheers!:salute::usa:
 






Aside from the ball joint press tool being a little tricky/clumsey to use, I completed all four upper ball joints (and installed a new front differential while I was at it) in my driveway with common hand tools.

I just want to add that the brain-dead SOB's at auto zone do not have any knowldge of the parts they are selling. The rear ball joints are DIFFERENT than the front, regardless of what their computer tells you. Rear ball joints are not a stocking item and had to be special ordered directly from Moog. I am in the Detroit area, so this may depend on location.

One more heads up to anyone buying ball joints: Moog joints in my area were nearly $50 each for all four. Aftermarket "duralast" brand was $33. I purchased the duralast (FA2159) for the front and it was a MOOG BALL JOINT IN THE DURALAST BOX. The very same joint pictured in the previous posts (with the splines and black boot, pressed in easily). Just a heads up, not sure if this is the same everywhere but all four joints I purchased @ AZ had Moog joints in the duralast box.

Of coarse the rear joints were incorrect and I refused to order anything else from the incompetent, unskilled, waste of oxygen behind the counter at AZ. I ordered them from AutoValue and the job is now complete.

Drive safe!
 






Hey Guys,
Well i finally accomplished the job of removing and installing the upper , lower ball joints and sway bars. It was a challenging task. Removing and installing the ball joints were the most challenging. I used all MOOG parts from Advanced Auto. Upper BJ w/ splines cost me $78.00 a pair and lowers were $82.74 a pair. Sway bar link kit $22.56 a pair. Ball joint service set #940579. $99.00. removing the upper control arms were simple enough. I struggled to remove the driver side ball joint using the press tool manually, i finally caved and used an impact wrench to turn the bolt to press out and press in. Uppers were in ok. For the lowers i used a mini sledge to pop them out and a floor jack to help me press em in.. the whole job took me nine hours split into two days. But it's done no more noise thanks again to POTROAST, YOU THE MAN! I took some pics but it's nothing impressive like PotRoast's
. Don't let the stealership drain your 401K! Cheers

photo.php
 












Just did this job today. I replace both Front Upper Ball joints. Passenger side is perfectly fine. but my driver side is giving me fits. id press the ball joint in and reassemble the control arm. i took it out for a test drive and the ball joint popped out when making a right turn. so i tried pressing it in again and it happened again. any ideas why this is happening?
 






Let me guess. You're using Moog Ball joints? Don't. They come in at least 3 different sizes for the same part number drove me nuts until I changed brands and its been all good ever since.
 






no i used napa Brand. i know the local guys there. they do look like moogs. its nice to know that theres 3 different sizes now. just having the problem with the drivers side. passengers side is just fine . went out and bought a different make. gonna try that tomorrow. hopefully it works.
 






I just did my upper ball joints today. If you are even the slightest bit coordinated you can accomplish the job without removing the control arms. I pressed the old ball joints out and new ones in in less than two hours, all with the control arms in place. It saves a decent amount of time and effort, as well as saving money on an alignment.
 






Thanks for the help. went and got a different ball joint. and everythings fine now.
 






URGENT QUESTION: IS alignment needed after replacing ball joint

Hey Guys, I am going to change my ball joints in a few days. Do I have to do a alignment after replacing upper ball joints? (The car is perfectly aligned before replacement).

PLease advise thanks.

:navajo:
 






Hey Guys, I am going to change my ball joints in a few days. Do I have to do a alignment after replacing upper ball joints? (The car is perfectly aligned before replacement).

PLease advise thanks.

:navajo:

If you pull the control arm off, you will need an alignment. I did it easily with everything still on the vehicle. If you press the ball joints off and on while still on the vehicle, you will not need an alignment.
 






If you pull the control arm off, you will need an alignment. I did it easily with everything still on the vehicle. If you press the ball joints off and on while still on the vehicle, you will not need an alignment.

Thanks for the response. My understanding is the upper control arm has two bolts to fix and there is no adjustment. If I install it back on with bolts tightened, I do not understand why I need alignment.

Replacing ball joints without taking out upper control arm sounds great. Which ball joint press kit did you use? I thought some are too big to fit in the space.

Thanks
 






Thanks to the OP for this post. Got mine done over the weekend with only one problem-couldn't get the freaking ball joint out of the steering knuckle. Tried everything-heat, beating the **** out of it with a mini-sledge, ball joint separator tools-nothing.

Finally got it out using a pitman arm puller to push the threads of the ball joint up and out. That and more heat. If anyone runs into this problem, give it a shot.

Thanks again!
 






Installing mine tomorrow! Spent all weekend getting my front 2.25 spacers on. Holy crap, it was quite the job...
 












Upper Ball joint replacement

Great post... If i ever need to change my uppers i ill definitely have this post handy. i do have a question though. i have a 2001 Explorer XLT 4WD and my upper control arm looks nothing like this. Did they change them going into the 02's?? I am also assuming that you were doing the drivers side, I assume the passenger side is stationary like the 2001's and drivers side pivots hence you didn't have to take the nut off the lower ball joint ??
 






Torque specs on this? Doing mine tomorrow!!

EDIT:
Found this on AutoZone site for 2WD...

Upper control arm nuts 111 ft. lbs.

Ball joint nut 41 ft. lbs.

Did mine today...thanks for the great write up...this site is such a great resource....
 






Thank you for this thread. I changed mine along with the lowers and struts this weekend. I highly recommend getting the quick struts.
 



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Did my front 2 upper ball joints today. Went with the remove-the-control-arm method. I struggled quite a bit with it. Had to recruit a friend to help. Took me ~4 hours to do both. Rented the tools from Autozone without problem.
 






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