How to tell if hubs are bad? | Ford Explorer Forums

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How to tell if hubs are bad?

javey

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Spokane
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98 XLT
I went to my local tire shop, and the person there told me my front driver's side hub is bad, how can I check this to be sure, before I buy a new one? :)
 



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when i seen your post i had to laff...i had some tires swapped and i ran into a problem with my hbs on a trail run a week or 2 later...here's a link to a thread that should answer your question and there is some info to how to check your hubs...mine are manual though, and you can search auto hubs too...:)
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188214
 












oops, my bad....but he can still jack it up and spin the wheels???
 












just jack up the control arm and hold the wheel on the top and bottom and feel for any play
 






So if the hubs move, then they are bad? That's what the shop told me they did was they can move them up and down...I can test myself soon enough, but the question I have, is because I do not hear ANY noise while driving down the road...hmm.
 






So if the hubs move, then they are bad? That's what the shop told me they did was they can move them up and down...I can test myself soon enough, but the question I have, is because I do not hear ANY noise while driving down the road...hmm.

Yup... No movement, except to spin.

Once they start going bad, you'll also have a lot of other issues, such as the auto 4x4 kicking in around corners, etc., due to the wheel speed sensor starting to be out of spec for distance due to wheel bearing play.

If in doubt, replace them. Those front bearings are ALL that hold your front tires to the axle. They WILL come apart.

BTW, you can do that job at home -- just nuts and bolts stuff. No special tools, etc., needed. If you can pull a wheel, you can probably replace the unit bearing. Its held in place by 3 bolts through the back of the spindle. Just turn the wheel sharply to one side and you can get at the bolts.

Pull the wheel, disconnect the brake sensor line, pull off the brake caliper (two bolts hold it to the spindle -- plus two wedges hold the actual caliper to the braket -- just drive them out with a hammer and screwdriver), then turn the wheel and take out the three bolts. The entire hub assembly will pop out the front. Replace in reverse order.
 






So they must be bad then...could that be what is causing my ABS light to come on?
 






Yes, that could be one of the causes, but they have to be really bad for that to happen.

Jack it up via the control arm, movement on the 12 and 6 position could be balljoints as well, but spin the tire, you'd most likely hear a grinding sound if they are eating the sensors.

I'll add to glfredrick, before you jack the vehicle up, or remove the tire, break the 32mm nut loose that holds on the hub, it'll be near impossible off the ground without a serious impact.

Edit: One last thing, the 32mm nut that holds the hub assembly on is a torque to yield nut, meaning single use.
It truly is the only thing holding the front wheel on the truck, don't skimp here, buy a new one (my opinion, others vary)
 






Yes, that could be one of the causes, but they have to be really bad for that to happen.

Jack it up via the control arm, movement on the 12 and 6 position could be balljoints as well, but spin the tire, you'd most likely hear a grinding sound if they are eating the sensors.

I'll add to glfredrick, before you jack the vehicle up, or remove the tire, break the 32mm nut loose that holds on the hub, it'll be near impossible off the ground without a serious impact.

Edit: One last thing, the 32mm nut that holds the hub assembly on is a torque to yield nut, meaning single use.
It truly is the only thing holding the front wheel on the truck, don't skimp here, buy a new one (my opinion, others vary)

Yup...

I'm spoiled. Have one of those brand new Snap On 700# jobs... :D
 






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