Hub assembly confusion

[robbinsf]

I searched the forums and couldn't find anything specific for my application. So my apologies if I missed it.

I have a 1999 Eddie Bauer EX 2WD SOHC V6. I have play in my front right tire and was told that I need a new hub assembly. I thought that this year and 2wd did not have a hub assembly rather a rotor with a hub built in that then required inner/outer bearings, seals, races.

I want to order what I need online and want to get it right. So do I need this

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPB0/515003/03338.oap?year=1999&make=Ford&model=Explorer&vi=1354542&ck=Search_brake+drums%21s%21rotors_1354542_3315&keyword=brake+drums%21s%21rotors

or this plus bearings/seal/races

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BBR0/66597RGS/03841.oap?year=1999&make=Ford&model=Explorer&vi=1354542&ck=Search_brake+drums%21s%21rotors_1354542_3315&keyword=brake+drums%21s%21rotors

 

[MAS Tequila]

There is no hub assembly for the 2WD until 2002.

Get the bearings.

MT

 

[swshawaii]

^ Unless you need a new rotor.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373194

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1354542,parttype,1672

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1354542,parttype,1896

 

[robbinsf]

^ Unless you need a new rotor.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373194

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1354542,parttype,1672

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1354542,parttype,1896

Thanks back in 11 some friends of mine put new rotors and bearings all the way around. I had forgotten what the fronts looked like. I also had a shot front end, ceased shocks, bad upper and lower ball joints. When the upper and lowers were replaced my friend said the bearings were shot. So he replaced them. I continue to ride on the ceased shocks (winter beater). Anyhow I had the seized shocks replaced and the people replacing them said the bearings were shot and replaced them again.

This brings me to belle tire to get a simple alignment. They tell me that my right hub and bearing needs to be replaced and they cannot do the alignment until that is done. They quote me $330. I was confused and wondered how the bearings could be shot it has only been 2 wks since they were replaced from the shock swap. Anyhow I asked to replace just the bearings and they said its all one part and sealed. That didn't sound right and obviously isn't.

So there is my ridiculously long story. There is play and I have no doubt the bearing needs to be replaced again but I can't think of why I am eating them. I shouldn't need a new rotor they are only 3 yrs old but maybe I do.

A bit more information I have cross drilled and slotted rotors. So if I do need a new rotor I will need to order two since I can't seem to get crossed in singles.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

I was confused and wondered how the bearings could be shot it has only been 2 wks since they were replaced from the shock swap. Anyhow I asked to replace just the bearings and they said its all one part and sealed. That didn't sound right and obviously isn't.

So there is my ridiculously long story. There is play and I have no doubt the bearing needs to be replaced again but I can't think of why I am eating them. I shouldn't need a new rotor they are only 3 yrs old but maybe I do.

Overtorqued will certainly destroy the bearings in very short order. On 2wd, you set the bearing with 25 ft pounds, then back off the nut and torque to 20 inch pounds. Really common to have these overtorqued and then burn out in very short order.

Other possibility is a scored spindle. Will chew up the bearing, but likely to take somewhat longer.

Good instructional thread with pics: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373194

 

[robbinsf]

Thanks everyone. Hopefully I don't have a scored spindle. I need this vehicle to last 1.5 years from this date. I realize that is asking a lot of a 99 with 170k miles but that's what I am hoping anyhow.

 

[robbinsf]

Overtorqued will certainly destroy the bearings in very short order. On 2wd, you set the bearing with 25 ft pounds, then back off the nut and torque to 20 inch pounds. Really common to have these overtorqued and then burn out in very short order.

Other possibility is a scored spindle. Will chew up the bearing, but likely to take somewhat longer.

Good instructional thread with pics: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373194

One last ? I hope lol Do I have to use an axle nut socket or will any 27mm (1 1/16) sized socket do the job properly?

 

[koda2000]

I don't know what size the nut is (1-1/16" I believe), but he front axle nut on a 2WD will not be very tight. a pair of channel locks, large vise grips, or an adjustable wrench will easily take it off. conversely, the nut does not get tightened very much when you reinstall it. 35 ft lbs initially, spin the rotor, then back it off and retighten to around 25 inch lbs. if the cotter pin doesn't line up with the hole in the axle, loosen it rather than tightening it to line it up. the 2 biggest mistakes people make when changing front bearings is not installing new bearing races and over-tightening the axle nut.

 

[robbinsf]

I don't know what size the nut is (1-1/16" I believe), but he front axle nut on a 2WD will not be very tight. a pair of channel locks, large vise grips, or an adjustable wrench will easily take it off. conversely, the nut does not get tightened very much when you reinstall it. 35 ft lbs initially, spin the rotor, then back it off and retighten to around 25 inch lbs. if the cotter pin doesn't line up with the hole in the axle, loosen it rather than tightening it to line it up. the 2 biggest mistakes people make when changing front bearings is not installing new bearing races and over-tightening the axle nut.

Yes it is a 1 1/16. I want to put it back on to spec so I was going to use a TQ wrench and a socket. I can buy a standard or deep well 1 1/16 for $7 but I also see specific axle nut sockets that look a bit different. I wasn't sure if you had to have a specific one or any socket of the correct size.

I am installing everything new dust cap, cotter pin, race so on and so forth.

Thanks for the information and thanks in advance for any further replies. I am not sure how I missed the write up posted earlier lol.

 

[Flash]

I need this vehicle to last 1.5 years from this date. I realize that is asking a lot of a 99 with 170k miles but that's what I am hoping anyhow.

Hell no! That's not asking much at all! With proper maintenence that thing will go double that easy.

Be aware that RomeovilleIL said On 2wd, you set the bearing with 25 ft pounds, then back off the nut and torque to 20 inch pounds.

DO NOT over torque it. But don't leave it loose either.

I do it all by feel, but hey, that's me. And you really don't want to make all the mistakes I've made learning how to do this sort of stuff.

 

[robbinsf]

Hell no! That's not asking much at all! With proper maintenence that thing will go double that easy.

Be aware that RomeovilleIL said On 2wd, you set the bearing with 25 ft pounds, then back off the nut and torque to 20 inch pounds.

DO NOT over torque it. But don't leave it loose either.

I do it all by feel, but hey, that's me. And you really don't want to make all the mistakes I've made learning how to do this sort of stuff.

It would be awesome if it lasted double that. It was bought used and abused. Since I have owned it I have stayed on top of things. Fluids, general maint etc. I am definitely going to be cautious of the TQ conditions.