For a $5 part, it adds up in other things to do this.
You will need to purchase:
3 quarts of 90-140 fluids (synthetics are best IMHO)
1 new carrier pin bolt
1 tube of RTV sealant
1 set of axle seals
You should purchase & do this while your at it:
New brake pads
Turn the rotors or buy new
E-brake rebuild kit
Tips:
Do both sides.
Use thick paper to wrap the axle when sliding it back in so not to cut the new seal. Once in past the splines, remove the paper, then slide it in the rest of the way.
The diff only takes a tad bit over 2.5 quarts of fluids. Check the type of carrier for a possibility of needing LS additive.
A 3 jaw puller & a slide hammer can be rented for free at AutoZone or Oreilly's
Take time and care installing new seal. Use a dead blow hammer.
Never re-use a carrier pin bolt, they break from having spider cracks from vibration. Torque specs are around 12-14 lbs
Either use RTV alone or use a gasket & RTV for the dif covver. Make sure to go around each bolt hole with the RTV.
Warm up the fluids in hot water b4 adding. It thins it making it easier to squeeze out of the bottle. Let RTV set up for at least an hour before adding.
If the rear rotors are froze on the axle, use the 3 jaw puller to remove it after loosening the star wheel on the lower backside. This will release tension on the E-brake shoes.
Turn the axles so you can see the middle/tops of the C-clips for removal.
Put the lugs back on the loose axles to protect the threads on the studs.
Run a magnet in the collector depression inside the dif housing to remove any metals accumulated over the years.
Inspect the gears, LS clutches (if it is a LS), for any burning, or broken/chipped parts.
Does this sound like something you can handle? If so, I suggest doing it, as a shop most likely wont do much of the additional things. If they did, it would cost an arm & a leg. Better off doing it yourself to get it all done and save a ton of cash.
Good luck!
