hubs are going.. need input..

[Steve94LTD]

I have a 94 Limited, and i keep going back and forth over whether or not I want to sell it. It seems like its about good to go, new brakes, hoses, belts, transmission and now the hubs are goin, so those will be new soon too.

Ford wants $350 per a hub + labor to replace them, and im sure as hell not about to pay that. I dont know much about cars, but im willing to learn, and I already started reading the haynes manual for explorers.

question: what should I know before I get into this task? what tools do I need, how long, what exactly does this task entail.. etc etc.

Anyone have any input? I could really use some help

 

[Stephen S]

Why not go with the Warn manual hubs as replacements. First they are cheaper than the Ford auto hubs, they are stronger, and there's a tech write up here on the site about how to do the conversion. Here it is:

http://www.explorer4x4.com/tips2.html#hub

You could also try a search through some old threads. The hub issue is pretty popular around here.
Hope this helps.

 

[1993fordexplode]

I converted to the chaeper warn manual hubs and they work fine. I haven't had any problems with them so far and they are available in many offroad stores. The ford replacements aren't worth it and who wants to back up 20 feet every time you switch out!

 

[tristram77]

I did Mile Maker manual hubs. Full lifetime warranty for $115. put them in myself using the explorer maintenence website at Glue that does not seem to work for me any more.

but it is simple to change them. good luck.

 

[sharonis3]

91 Explorer
Left hub made grinding noise 4 months ago, while turning sharp in 2 wheel drive. (autohubs were disengaged)

- Found U-joint at left wheel seized, had replaced, cured.

Last week put into 4 wheel, got a grinding noise from the left hub, did not engage. Backed up, to stop grinding and made it home.

-Took left hub fully apart, even replaced the little bearing inside the hub. Filed the spline ends, where they were slightly worn. Cam was good, Thrust washers were worn, probably down to half thickness. Thought I did a good job. Hubs looked pretty good for 140K.

Took it for a drive, now it engages properly, but now grinds when I hit the electronic switch to disengage. Will only stop when I back up to disengage the hubs.

Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ksaldibar]

When my auto hubs went this past winter (found out in 18" of snow) we replaced them with a pair of manuals by Warn because of the price difference. In the beginning they felt inconvenient, but forgot about it after realizing they are much more reliable, and thats what counts.

-ken

 

[tristram77]

Dead Link Removed


how to change auto to manual

 

[Saxman]

warn=good

I put warns on mine and they are great, no more slipping in and out they stay engaged till i unlock them, i have heard people really cleaning there original hubs and getting them to work, i guess grease buildup does not allow them to engage fully in some cases but in others the cheap nylon wears out due to the high heat from the fron discs, while you do have to get out of the car the warn hubs are well worth the money, i run a set on my 67 dodge power wagon with a big 383 and 4.88 gears thing puts torque down like no other and i have never had the hubs go out on me D

 

[sharonis3]

Plastic Thrust Washers in For Auto Hubs

I replaced my spindle bearing. This seemed to get rid of the buzzing on my autohubs.

My plastic thrust washers were basically none existent. I cut some thin metal shims, and put them where the plastic ones were. (Between the wheel bearing nut and the plastic cam) I guessed at the thickness to put in.

Does anyone know the thickness, that was originally there? There is probably also some worn off the back of the plastic cam. Is there a reference I should shim the cam out to? I almost shimmed it out, until it was even with the end of the spindle. But did not want to add too much at one time.

Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!:redexp: