Need input on ball joint removal.

[X-1]

The adjuster just pops out, twist using channel locks, or pry up with screw driver, as far as breaking wrenches, never have in twenty years, but I don't use cheap crap either.

 

[AlaskanJack]

Well the ones I broke today were snap-on so I guess I'll have to look into getting them replaced.

I see well we are off to see "Anger Management" now so when I get back I'll work it up off. Then I guess all I have todo is smack the knuckle with a hammer and off it comes right?

 

[NOTAJP]

Originally posted by X-1
The adjuster just pops out, twist using channel locks, or pry up with screw driver, as far as breaking wrenches, never have in twenty years, but I don't use cheap crap either.

That's all I did.

 

[X-1]

Once you get the nut off, put it back on a couple of turns, then smack the side of axle housing right where ball joint attaches to free it, same as knocking a tierod loose, out she comes. Sockets always break before wrenches do, not as thick, what I meant by cheap crap was "made in taiwan", I admit I have some I have picked up from where ever, but wouldn't do the cheater thing with them, it would probably cause broken teeth, ouch!!

 

[AlaskanJack]

Well I guess my stuff is just a little more difficult than you guys have experienced. I just got home from movie and started with screwdrivers prying up on the camber adjuster then I went to the channel locks. I can spin it a little bit but it must be stuck to the ball joint stud since they spin together. Was prying up with screwdriver when it slipped and went sailing over my head. Whoaw!! Went back to working the channel locks and applying penetrating lubricant. Man I hope it frees up soon. I need to press the ball joints out and press new ones in the new knuckle. The ball joint press goes back tomorrow.

 

[AlaskanJack]

Originally posted by NOTAJP
quote:
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Originally posted by X-1
The adjuster just pops out, twist using channel locks, or pry up with screw driver, as far as breaking wrenches, never have in twenty years, but I don't use cheap crap either.
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That's all I did.

Yah you guys make it sound so simple it just pops out! Well I spent another 30 minutes on it and all it does now is spin freely with the ball joint stud. I shot a crap lot more penetrating lubricant on it. Worked it like heck with the channel locks and it still won't budge over the groove where the snap ring was that I removed. Man what A pain in the arse. My elbow hurts from working it over, I even tried to use the ball joint tool to try to press the ball joint up a bit, but to no avail it wouldn't bite not enough room. So I shot some more penetrating lube on it and came inside.

 

[matey]

lol thats funny they made me go to anger management as well it cost me 3 grand that was really pissin me off

 

[SteveVB]

BFH time

I took a chisel and pounded it into the sleeve from above to spread it as much as possible, then take your trusty BFH and pound on the ball joint stud and it will break free from the adjuster. I used some chisels and put them under the hex parts of the adjuster and pounded them up and out working my way around.
You dont need to get the sleeve out to remove the ball joint. It makes it easier since then you just have to free up the lower, but if you cant get the adjuster out, try getting the knuckle off

You marked the adjuster sleeve before you started twisting it all around...right?

Good Luck- now you know why everyone says do all of the joints while its apart!!

 

[NOTAJP]

BFH, should have thought of that eariler. I usually remove the knuckle with the ball joints, then place the knuckle in a vice to remove and install the ball joints.

Matey, that's way to funny. I've claimed the shop as exempt from liability for my anger actions.

 

[AlaskanJack]

You marked the adjuster sleeve before you started twisting it all around...right?

Not really the slot in the sleeve lined up exactly with the inside edge of the slot where the pinch bolt goes. So that made it easy.

I tried using some taps that I have to knock the sleeve up but that wasn't working either. I'll have to try hitting down on the stud.

 

[NOTAJP]

Originally posted by AlaskanJack
I'll have to try hitting down on the stud.

That SHOULD pop it right out so you can but the knuckle on the bench to press out the ball joints.

 

[AlaskanJack]

I must be cursed or stupid you choose!! I was re-installing my knuckle after installing new ball joints. Problem is when I try to torque the nut on the lower ball joint it just spins the stud. I can't get any torque on it. What am I doing wrong??? The upper ball joint is sitting right where it should and is ready for a snap ring.


Please help!!!

 

[X-1]

put a jack up under the joint and put some pressure on it, that should help seat the joint

 

[matey]

its been a long time since i have done one of those bud but i seem to rember that the last reply was on the money ya have to get the weight of the car on it there is a special tool to press it have got a tool hire shop near you? try asking them other wise jack it up underneath it make sure the spares under the chasis so if it fall ya dont break ya legs

 

[SteveVB]

Taper OK?

Did you check the taper in the knuckle amke sure it was ok? Not scored and beat up. May be the machined taper in the axle ear is worn. Make sure its clean and in good shape.

The jack is a good idea.

 

[AlaskanJack]

Man that worked like a charm. I used my spare bottle jack and it took a bit but it all snug now.


Hey whats the quality difference between greaseable and non greaseable ball joints. The old ones were non greaseable but the ones I picked up from Schuck's are greasable.

 

[NOTAJP]

Greasable has got to be better. The last ones I installed were greasable and have lasted quite a long time.

 

[X-1]

Grrease is always good, my uppers I replaced the straight fitting with a 90 so I can get at it easier, and they didn't have any conflict with the axle.

 

[matey]

yeah some modern components say that "we sealed it so you never have to grease it" i would think the ones you can service are better