Need input on ball joint removal.

[AlaskanJack]

I am wondering for all those that have done thier own ball joint swap if they had to remove the front drive axle as Haynes says to remove. I have removed my spindle and I cant see why I would need to remove the axle shaft.


Also, I ran into a problem when trying to remove cotter pin from lower ball joint. The end of the cotter pin has broke and I can't seem to get a grab on the looped end. It appears that the pin was shoved too far into the nut. Any ideas on how to remove this pin. I don't want to remove the axle shaft if possible. I am also replacing the knuckle this is why spindle has been removed.

 

[NOTAJP]

The axle just slides in and out. Why don't you want to remove it? You are already there by the looks of your pics. Try using a small pick to punch out the cotter pin from the broken side.

 

[AlaskanJack]

Oh I thought I had to disconnect the axle from a u=joint or at the diff. its hard to get to either end of the cotter pin

 

[NOTAJP]

The passenger side axle has a slip joint right in the center of the axle so all you have to do is loosen the clamps on the boot and pull.

The cotter pin sounds like a bad deal. Bummer. The only thing I can think of is a punch on either side. Might have to cut off the upper part of the castle nut with a saw-zall and remove the rest as normal.

 

[AlaskanJack]

Well I had no clamp or boot, is that something I should replace? I just pulled on it and it slipped out of the spline.

Made it easier to get to the front of the cotter pin. I have all sorts of little seal and o-ring pullers but non would work. I even have a small screwdriver that i turned into an awl. I tried to tap it from behind but the angle of the cotter pin and the TTB just wouldn't allow it.

I just got back from NAPA where I picked up a few different types of hardened picks and cotter pin remover so I can really get into them with the hammer and hopefully break it free. I don't want to have to cut the shaft. I would try a nut breaker first, if the nuts can be broken.

My family is waiting to see if I can get the cotter pin out now. If I can then we will go see Anger Management at 4:45 so I can get further into job just in case I need to make another run to NAPA. If I can't get it quickly to remove then we will go to movies at 2:25. I will have to resort to other methods, which means making a run tomorrow to the Tool and Pawn shop for cheap tools.

 

[X-1]

I left my axle in, no sense taking it out for nothing, as far as the cotter pin, just use an awl, I also knocked mine out with a ballpeen hammer, and installed with a big socket on an old extention, couldn't get a hold of a ball joint press.

 

[NOTAJP]

The boot just keeps your splines from getting dirt in them. Most drive shafts don't use boots like Ford does. I tore my axle boot about two years ago and replaced it from Ford for about $6. I lost the clamps years ago. Don't really need them.

 

[AlaskanJack]

Well I just had to take a break. I finally got the cotter pin out. I had been putting penetrating oil on the nut and cotter pin since yesterday I have probably sprayed it 20 times in 2 days. Now The damn nut won't break!! Augggghhh!! I am applying over 300lbs/in of torque and nothing. I tested it using my torque wrench and 150 lb/in was like hardly pulling on it. I bet I am applying well over 2-3 times the force as I did when I tested with the torque wrench.

If its not one thing it's another. Man I am getting so frustrated! I have been applying penetrating oil and trying to bust it for over an hour. The inside of my elbow is aching I was pulling and pushing on the wrench so hard.

I may just get a nut breaker and be done with it but that means waiting until tomorrow to get the nutbreaker. Any ideas?

 

[X-1]

cheater bar, doubled up wrench, big friggin hammer just gotta show it who's boss

 

[AlaskanJack]

Originally posted by X-1
cheater bar, doubled up wrench, big friggin hammer just gotta show it who's boss

Well my cheater bar isn't big enough to go over my wrenches or my 1/2" socket wrench. Man I got like 100 sockets but no 15/16 for my 3/8" socket wrench, which i COULD USE MY CHEATER BAR WITH.

Gonna go see if the neighbor has a 15/16 socket or metric equivalent. Then throw on my cheater bar and beat the Sh*t out of it. Something will break for sure!

 

[X-1]

What about a wrench, then put another at the other end of wrench that is on nut, hard to explain, but basically making the wrench twice as long, you only need to crack it loose.

 

[NOTAJP]

Here's what X-1 was talking about. Works great! Sorry about the bad pic. Place your 15/16 wrench's round side on the nut and place your second wrench as shown in the pic below.

 

[X-1]

sweet

 

[rokke17]

Originally posted by NOTAJP
Here's what X-1 was talking about. Works great! Sorry about the bad pic. Place your 15/16 wrench's round side on the nut and place your second wrench as shown in the pic below.

Keep doing that and you're gonna break some knuckles or some wrenches. Just get a cheater for your 1/2" drive.

 

[NOTAJP]

True, just have to be careful. Works in a Pinch. I now have a cheater for my 1/2" also. Haven't broken a wrench yet, but they are all craftsmen so I'm not worried.

 

[AlaskanJack]

allright NotAJP, it worked I put my cheater bar on the end instead of a second wrench. Unfortuantely I tried something else before I came in and read this. So I broke a socket wrench and bent the hell out of my breaker bar drive. Whew!

What a rookie I am!! I looked at my Haynes and went what the hell is this a special ball joint tool to remove the camber adjuster!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Auuugghh what did I get myself into. I've got a complete ball joint removal kit as far as I know and I don't see anything to remove the camber adjuster.

 

[NOTAJP]

It's just a twelve(12) point socket, metric I believe. Can't remember exactly what size. If it's 12mm, 1/2" is the same.

 

[AlaskanJack]

Originally posted by NOTAJP
It's just a twelve(12) point socket, metric I believe. Can't remember exactly what size. If it's 12mm, 1/2" is the same.

That's for removing the pinch bolt which is already off.

It says to remove the camber adjuster I need a special ball joint removal part from ford in the Haynes.

The metal that the pinch bolt is in is welded to the axle so it doesn't remove, what is supposed to be removed.

I took a pic but battery went dead, its charging now and I will post a pic.

 

[NOTAJP]

My bad. I don't remember using a special tool from Ford. I have used some large sockets and made up my own ideas on how to use the Ball-Joint tool. There is a Ford add-on tool kit but can be worked around.

 

[AlaskanJack]

Oh really, does the camber adjuster pull out or twist out or what maybe I can come up with another method. How did you do it?