I need a huge favor...

[Cobraguy]

Can anyone take a good, up close and detailed picture of the a/c condenser (factory issue only!) on a V8 2nd gen Explorer/Mountaineer? I need to see the plate and fin details only. I need to see the difference between factory and aftermarket. You would think that in Phoenix, AZ I could find a dealer with one in stock so I could look! But no...

Again, only a condenser you are certain came from the factory.

Thanks in advance...I appreciate your help.

 

[robertoa1a]

Kind of a dumb question but it has to be out of the vehicle, doesnt it? Can I take measurments? It matches up almost perfect with the front of the radiator And about the same fins too. At first I thought It was the radiator till I looked close.

You provably need one out of the vehicle. Fortune usually has good 5.0 pix.

 

[Cobraguy]

No...you could shoot it from the grill and get plenty close for my needs. I just need to see the tubes and fins. But hold off everyone...I may have one to look at. I'll get back if I still need a picture.

 

[robertoa1a]

My hose fittings are top drivers side on the side facing the engine. You helped me a few times before No problem. But now im about out of day light.

 

[CDW6212R]

I don't know if this is detailed enough, but this is from my 99 SOHC. They are designed the same, V8/V6, basically the mounting is slightly changed for the V8.

 

[Cobraguy]

I can tell from that Don! Thank you. That is different than the construction I have...and may be the answer I'm looking for. I've always had a problem with the a/c temps on my 99. On my 95, I can get them in the high 30's consistently. That a/c will run you out of the car...even at 110 degrees or hotter outside. My 99 will only go to the mid to low 40's. It's plenty good, but it drives me nuts that it won't match the 95. When I went with the electric fan, that was a huge improvement. I would see temps rise near 50 in stop and go traffic. That doesn't happen any longer. The temps always stay in the mid to low 40's. So I'm going to toss a new factory Ford (Motorcraft actually) condenser on this thing. I'm betting that does it. Thanks for all your help!

 

[CDW6212R]

You are very welcome. But now you have my interest peaked. Are you saying that the one on your 99 isn't OEM, or how is it different? What exactly is different, is the size at least the same? I think from what I've seen the V6 and V8 radiators/condensers are very close in size. The V8 just has the radiator lowered and set back an inch or so, thus the different mounting.

I bought a new OEM(not from Ford) radiator for my 347. I will eventually change my AC compressor, I got one with an 8-rib pulley. When I do that I am planning to change the o-rings in the connections, and install locks for those flexible joints.

So let me know if there is a better condenser to be had. I have some other issue to fix now, likely the blend door. Regards,

 

[Cobraguy]

The condenser in this thing now Don is an aftermarket cheapie I'm sure. The tubes and fins seem to be entirely different. Have you noticed on newer radiators how they are going to just a couple of wider, thicker rows of tubes rather than something like 4 thinner rows? This gives you more surface area to dissipate heat. It appears the factory Ford condenser is of similar design...just not as pronounced. I think it may be of enough difference to matter though. When I get the factory unit installed, I'll let you know if it's worth the money and does any good. Damn thing is spendy...$200...and that's the good price.

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, I like a cold air conditioner. I also planned long ago to create a switch to be able to recirculate the air. That isn't as efficient for the AC, you know what happens when you run the MAX AC for a long time, low air flow etc. I think a switch will be useful to at least better control how much outside stink gets in.

I bought two used vacuum switches from a 95 4wd Front axle disconnect. Any vacuum switches will do, they just use an electrical signal to switch a vacuum source from one port to another. I'll control the white vacuum line that goes to the recirculate canister.

 

[Cobraguy]

Oh wow...now you have me curious! Max A/C is simply closing the door behind the glove box to recirculate inside air. I'm not quite following what you have done. Are you saying you ice up the evaporator when you run on Max A/C too long? Kind of sounds like that...and I've seen that be a problem with high humidity climates.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, rarely but it does happen, running too long like on a trip you need to turn off the MAX AC to run some warmer air through.

 

[robertoa1a]

I live in Jacksonville and it has been getting hot since feburary. I bought a 30lb cylender of 134A in the winter for about $110. Now its provaly $300 Every year it goes up in the summer. Thats human nature. Buy refrigerant in the winter.

 

[robertoa1a]

Actually Cobra, I believe you answewed an A/C problem of mine back in march when i replaced my compressor. Thank you I owe you one. In the 110deg heat, the X ac freeeeezes you out. Thats the way they made them!

 

[robertoa1a]

No. I notied that too. Thats just inside air.

 

[Dilbert5]

I do not know if you are aware of this, but before you replace the condensor, you should replace the orifice tube. There is a standard, and heavy duty tube, for severe service.

 

[robertoa1a]

When it gets hot in florida that '96 a/c is freekin cold! Believe me its oversized. I have riden in some new cars. The ford gets plain freezing.

 

[gijoecam]

Wasn't the 95 still running R-12? The 99 is definitely R-134a, but if the 95 is running R-12, that could be a huge part of the difference...

 

[Cobraguy]

Wasn't the 95 still running R-12? The 99 is definitely R-134a, but if the 95 is running R-12, that could be a huge part of the difference...

Ford started switching to 134A with the 3.0 Taurus in 1992. Mark Lincolns got it in 1993, and everything got it in 1994. Probably more than you wanted to know!

 

[Cobraguy]

I do not know if you are aware of this, but before you replace the condensor, you should replace the orifice tube. There is a standard, and heavy duty tube, for severe service.

Well, I know why that is recommended. But it is not necessary if you have not suffered any damage. If it's a fixed orifice tube (these are from the factory), there's not much to worry about. It uses a red (.062 orifice) tube. Since it only takes a moment once the refrigerant is recovered to pull the tube on these, it sure doesn't hurt. But if the screen is clear, I can see no advantage to installing a new one. Of course, they are so cheap it wouldn't hurt either. So your advice is valid.

My question is...what do you consider a HD orifice tube and what are you using for a part number? You aren't talking about a variable orifice tube are you? Ford doesn't show a HD option best I can tell.

 

[Dilbert5]

I was looking the the aftermarket. They list a stock replacement for around $5, and they also list a heavy duty, for severe service for around $20. Since I recently moved to Texas, I intend to replace mine (once it cools down a little here). I will post my results once I have enough data on it. I assume these tubes have a slightly larger orifice.