I want it to hurt!!

[aznboi3644]

Apparently the corners on the L7s tend to (lack of better word) Buckle. Thats what ive been told by quite a few people. Hence the corners being shot the corners get hung up some how. Then again just word from others

I've never heard of that.

 

[slickemhoundd]

I've never heard of that.

Is that the 5900? (head unit) What happend on the rest of the video?

 

[aznboi3644]

lol I forgot the camera was still on.

thats a Premier 590. Not 5900

the video is of a 15L7 with about 800-900 watts...I never noticed any "buckling" at all

 

[ford freak]

YEEES!!! Someone who agrees with me! Some say its bs but maybe it all depends on the sub but in my experiance 12s were always tighter.

I will most certainly disagree on the recoil theory. As said by Audiopulse.


More appropriately labeled Damping or Ringing, these concepts are really reciprocals of one another have nothing to do with speed, tightness, “boomieness” or any other misused and inappropriate term for subwoofers. Subwoofers, or rather bass drivers, all move at the same frequency when instructed to via an input single. The difference is really about the Q alignment of the system. There are many famous Q alignments which produce various frequency responses, but beyond the complex mathematics is a fundamental principal of force and acceleration and the driver will respond to a sinusoidal wave at various accelerations depending on the moving mass and force that the voice coil and motor generate on the cone. Therefore any driver can be faster or slower depending simply on the voltage! It makes little sense to call any driver faster or slower.

Damping or Ringing is really what we’re after and the amount of either is really a function of system volume along with the electro-mechanical damping factor of the driver. For example, in a sealed box system, as the volume of the cabinet becomes small, the internal pressures increase when the driver pushes in and out. This pressure is a force which, not nearly as strong as the electromotive damping force, works in the opposite direction. Contrary to intuition, higher internal pressure (which we tend to associate with tightness or stiffness) decreases damping and promotes ringing at one particular frequency (Fc in the case of a sealed box). The pressure from the air inside the box works against the driver’s natural damping factor of 1/(Qts). When the pressure becomes large relative to the motor’s damping factor, the driver will ring more and cause a peak in SPL at the given resonate frequency (Fc). This tends to be somewhere around 40-60Hz in a given sealed box, but could be outside that range under abnormal circumstances. This peak is ill desired and is accountable to the proclaimed “boomy” sounding subwoofers which tend to lack clarity, good transit response and dynamics. However some people prefer some ringing because it provides a natural boost in a very audible frequency band. Likewise, in a larger box, the Q will decrease and the ringing and SPL around that frequency will too, but the low end will open up and you’ll have more deep bass. This tends to sound better and more controlled.

On the flip side, over dampened drivers tend to have poor low frequency response and require equalization to boost the low frequencies. They tend to work better in vented boxes where their larger motor force factor (BL^2/Re) is put to good use with a resonator which then makes the low end much more efficient with its increased displacement. Likewise, drivers with high Qts will work better in sealed boxes and should be exempt from being used in a ported system without careful consideration. When high Q drivers are used in a vented system they will ring at the tuning frequency of the box (Fb in this case) and the “boomy” problem is considerably worse.

 

[ford freak]

now im still tryin to find my setup and i dont want to but i think im narrowing down to the 12 inch mtx 9500. Any opinions please dont let me fall if theres a hole

I would much rather see you get an Audiopulse sub. In the right enclosure.....NOT A DAMM PRE FAB!!!!!!! will outperform the l7 and the MTX.

One hell of a sub.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=293-616

 

[Buffalosports]

Because you are looking for something very loud, you should definitly look into dynomat (i think that is what it is called). That is the name brand, there is WAY cheaper alternatives. This will help prevent rattle outside the car.

 

[slickemhoundd]

I would much rather see you get an Audiopulse sub. In the right enclosure.....NOT A DAMM PRE FAB!!!!!!! will outperform the l7 and the MTX.

One hell of a sub.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=293-616

I was lookin around on that site, do they update or change what they stock? The selection wasnt that big but what they had was decent in price.

 

[aznboi3644]

Audiopulse went brankrupt...PartSexPress bought out all of the overstocked drivers and are now selling the rest off.

I would not recommend buying the driver...the price of the drivers went up 150% from when they were still called TC Sounds.

There are better alternatives for much less. Also Audiopulse drivers are not SPL oriented...they are SQ first but with there power handling and such can get loud.

 

[DJ Nitrous 427]

Listen to aznboi... ive had alot of different **** go though my truck...the loudest being a pair of RE Destroyers on a Rockford Power 2000 (~2400rms) backed by 2/0 wire and 2 Northstar NSB90 Batteries (4300A ea.)

aznboi knows what he's talking about....as far as good prices are concerned...troll the Classifides at CarAudio.com

 

[slickemhoundd]

Listen to aznboi... ive had alot of different **** go though my truck...the loudest being a pair of RE Destroyers on a Rockford Power 2000 (~2400rms) backed by 2/0 wire and 2 Northstar NSB90 Batteries (4300A ea.)

aznboi knows what he's talking about....as far as good prices are concerned...troll the Classifides at CarAudio.com

Just the kind of site ive been waiting to discover Thank you. Ive always wanted to try re audio and treo.

 

[BIGHVM]

Mythbusters was on this morning and I watched them fit a massive sub in an old merc- the sub was powered by a diesal engine to make the cone throw for max sound pressure!
What it did was push open the sunroof with the pressure and shook every body panel!
They got 1612db @ 16hz!
HUge and massive speaker was so big no none could get in the car after the speaker was fitted.
Guess that may be more pain than you could handle mate- I searched on u tube for the video, guess I will have to wait a while!

 

[slickemhoundd]

Mythbusters was on this morning and I watched them fit a massive sub in an old merc- the sub was powered by a diesal engine to make the cone throw for max sound pressure!
What it did was push open the sunroof with the pressure and shook every body panel!
They got 1612db @ 16hz!
HUge and massive speaker was so big no none could get in the car after the speaker was fitted.
Guess that may be more pain than you could handle mate- I searched on u tube for the video, guess I will have to wait a while!

1612dbs that car shouldve blew the hell apart!!

 

[1999_sport]

i'm bias towards kicker i've own lots and currently run 3 - 15's, but my buddy sold his 2 solo x 18's and bought 2 fi btl 18's and on the same amp (hifonics sampson) they hit 157db, was 6 - 8 db higher at 35 hertz then the kickers, btl's are loud

 

[msilver]

i'm not big into but i have a friend that is pretty crazy about bass, his car make my ears want to bleed. he said that the rockford fosgate powers are the best bang for the buck...

 

[rickjamestb]

I have 4 Memphis Pr 15's running a 1100 watt Memphis M class amp it hits real good but if your wanting painfull go with the kicker solo baric X 18

 

[PandorasCustoms]

I am currently running a single L5 in a ported enclosure with a Soundstream Amplifier (Running 650 watts out of the Amp). Spent about $500 for everything, and I have headaches every day I come into work. I really play it much louder than I should.
And, I am currently only using the "cookie cutter" 2.0cu' ported at 40hz.

My new box I have drawn up will be 3.75 cu' at 35hz and is graphed to add near 5~6 db in the 30hz range.

I would recommend the L5 in a heart-beat. Once it gets broken in, it pounds. Plus by going with square, you get the SPL levels of a fifteen due to the extra cone mass, but you don't sacrifice the tight response the smaller woofers can produce.

(Btw, I think that in a sealed enclosure, the response time change between different sized woofers is far to minimal to notice, but in a ported enclosure when the coil has limited back pressure, you can definitely tell a difference between a 12" and 18" response time. It is much harder for larger woofers to keep up with quick beats you see in Techno style music.)

 

[Balla7733]

Im currently running a 2 12" Memphis PRs on a Phoenix Gold 1100 watt amp in a dual ported box. They definitely hit hard and I get almost too many compliments (and noise violations) on them. I used to have a single 12" then "upgraded" to a Memphis PR 15" sub but I went through 3 15s in the span of 2 months.

12" subs are for bass you can hear and feel. with my 12s i can feel and hear it in the explorer, and outside you can hear it. With the 15" i didnt hear it as much inside as i felt it outside.

Its just a matter of preference. For deep, low bass go with 15s, for higher, more active bass, go with 12s.

 

[PandorasCustoms]

Im currently running a 2 12" Memphis PRs on a Phoenix Gold 1100 watt amp in a dual ported box. They definitely hit hard and I get almost too many compliments (and noise violations) on them. I used to have a single 12" then "upgraded" to a Memphis PR 15" sub but I went through 3 15s in the span of 2 months.

12" subs are for bass you can hear and feel. with my 12s i can feel and hear it in the explorer, and outside you can hear it. With the 15" i didnt hear it as much inside as i felt it outside.

Its just a matter of preference. For deep, low bass go with 15s, for higher, more active bass, go with 12s.

This is incorrect, the actual amount of "felt" bass has nothing to do with the woofer sizes, but the Cone mass of the woofer. It is measured for competition based off of this method. This is why the Solobaric series from Kicker is considered an SPL subwoofer as opposed to an SQ. A single 12" round woofer will have less cone mass then a single 12" square woofer.

So, two twelves using the same amount of power will create more SPL (Felt Bass) than one fifteen. Now, again, the variance in enclosure, and speaker design can greatly effect how all of this comes into play. But, this is the way theory works.

Apparently the corners on the L7s tend to (lack of better word) Buckle. Thats what ive been told by quite a few people. Hence the corners being shot the corners get hung up some how. Then again just word from others

The only way this could happen is if the woofer was pushed passed the Xmaxx, and the installer or person playing the music would have been an idiot.

On a round woofer, since all of the sides are symetrical, if pushed past Xmaxx, it just damages the voice coil. But, on other non-round (Triangle, Square) subwoofers, not only does it damage the coil, it has been noticed that when pushed beyond Xmaxx by a significant amount, the edges of the woofer can buckle or flex and actually bend the cone.
Again, if you are pushing the woofer that far beyond its specifications, you deserve to have it ripped because you don't deserve to have it in your vehicle.

 

[Explorer Junky]

I once had these awesome frickin subs called MTX Black Gold's. Sealed box, 12" with some type of baffling in the box. I hear that it "fools" the sub into performing like it is in a larger box. I had one amp with 400 watt bridged, but I ran 2 wires from each terminal (slaved it). Pounded REAL hard. Actually had to remove one. I had a Kicker sub ONCE and it blew a month after getting it. I was only pushing 200 wats into it and it was rated for more. Now I love my JL 10". pounds pretty good.

 

[mhart]

DC audio http://dcsoundlab.com/ i run 2 of their 12" lvl 4 XL off of a RF t40001 and it is brutal. i am also a dealer for them.