In DIRE need of help!

[Josh]

Regaurdless of what side is what, if you unplug that part and the truck runs then I would think that is your problem. Take that part off or try and find a part number on it and get another one. The dealership maybe more expensive than an autoparts store. Advance has the TPS for either 35 or 49 bucks. You will need your VIN code for the engine to get the right one. The search I did was asking for VIN code of E or K. Also be careful removing the screws. Mine were in tight and I ended up stripping them out. I have a first gen though.

 

[Blee1099]

I have Geico...

If you have Geico, they have the tow service if you bought the plan.. They will tow your vehicle to the nearest Ford dealership or to whereever you want as long as you pay for the distance after the mileage number from the location to the dealership. I've used mine many times, I think I actually used it 2x in a 2 week period.

 

[Tygershark76]

If you have Geico, they have the tow service if you bought the plan.. They will tow your vehicle to the nearest Ford dealership or to whereever you want as long as you pay for the distance after the mileage number from the location to the dealership. I've used mine many times, I think I actually used it 2x in a 2 week period.

Yes, it is good for the first 5 miles and then you have to cover the rest. They also were unable to find any of their covered wrecker services open on a Fri night. We got our own found and paid it out, now we just need Geico to reimburse it. They are really great to use and have saved us a lot of money with the military rates.

 

[Tygershark76]

There seems to be an adjustment bolt on the top right of the part that the harness plugs into. It is also held on by Torx screws, does that sound like the same part? TPS for the new 2004 costs about $80 and I would hate to get the wrong part, no parts stores carry it yet.

 

[Josh]

If it were me, I would remove it and take it to the dealership and have them ID the part. Then get the part number. If you are not interested in saving a few dollars then get a new one and be done with it. Also, it would be a good idea to invest in a haynes or chiltons manual. Ask the dealership if an 03/02 TPS is the same or not. I cant imagine the motors changed that much between those years. If so you could save 40 bucks, but thats just me.

 

[Tygershark76]

I will do that, I never thought it would be a problem. We just got it a few months ago, so I have not gotten the manual yet. I am heading to the dealer right now and will see if I can just show them on a car on the lot. From there I will see if it makes sense to them too if that could be the root.

 

[Tygershark76]

I have ordered a new TPS and ICM (IAC) to replace blindly on the TB. I found a great discount site the TPS costing $44 and the ICM $26 so it wasn't too deadly yet on the wallet. Now I am just hoping that this will be the cure!

 

[Tygershark76]

Total was $80 INCLUDING shipping from TX to NC! Not bad at all and it will be here no later than Friday, will keep you all posted. I was planning on replacing one part at a time to see which one it was so I can inform better later.

 

[JDraper]

Explain to me exactly why you are going to blindly dump money into parts to see if you can fix the problem, when Autozone and other places like it will read your codes for free and point you in the right direction.....

 

[Tygershark76]

I have talked extensively with Ford service from multiple dealers and they are all in agreement that the TPS seems to be the root of the problem. I cannot get the vehicle to Advance or Autozone safely either since it will not get over 10 MPH. The guy I spoke with at Advance also told me the exact opposite from what Ford explained and from what I understand about the system. He explained that a TPS is simply a rheostat and that an IAC is a ported bypass around the TB for the vehicle to maintain idle. He also mentioned that getting any help or info from a forum is usually wrong. I thanked him and left noting that he drove a '83 Ranger with dual big rig exhuast stacks. I know for a fact that the TPS is needed since it rattles when shook after removing it from the TB, so I am into it for at least that. The IAC was just added insurance to see what happens. If this does not work I will have it towed to and repaired at the dealer.

 

[Josh]

The IAC basicaly lets a little more air in during starts and to bump the idle when you turn on the AC. I am sure there are a couple more things it does but that is basicaly it and I don't believe it would cause this problem.

 

[Tygershark76]

Yes I know that is the main purpose, he explained it as a bypass completely around the TB altogether. It is on the TB and for $26 it's better safe than sorry in my opinion. Mainly just replacing both electrical components on the TB.

 

[JDraper]

Yes I know that is the main purpose, he explained it as a bypass completely around the TB altogether. It is on the TB and for $26 it's better safe than sorry in my opinion. Mainly just replacing both electrical components on the TB.

His explanation is partially wrong (goes with the exhaust stacks on a Ranger : ). The IAC is not a "bypass completely around the TB" it's job is to meter air entering the motor at idle, much like a choke does on a carbureted car. Basically it's an electronically controlled slide valve that has a port on either side of the throttle plate. Air is metered around the plate as necessary to hold a consistent, smooth idle.

The TPS is a rheostat that just reports the position of the throttle plate back to the computer. The computer uses this information to help calculate fuel injector flow and (IIRC) has some bearing on the engine timing.

 

[Josh]

Smarty pants :

 

[JDraper]

Smarty pants :

 

[Josh]

 

[Tygershark76]

TPS was the answer, it was a success!