How to: Install Your Own Shocks

[98ExplSport]

I finished install my sensatracs last week. One nut on the top of the passenger side front shock was a real pain. It was pretty much round by the time I got it off. Other than that it wa really simple. No need to jack up the front. Just turn the wheel and you have more room than you need. The monroe's definately took the edge off of the rough ride. There is ayon less body roll and no movement at quickstops and take offs. Turned out great! Between that and getting all silverstar headlights and grinding out and buffing the lamps, i feel like i have a new truck!

 

[RNV]

Changed all four in three hours. Thanks for the write up. I left the front wheels on.

 

[mpntball2012]

I'm going to feel like a newbie for asking this question, but I want to clear this up. I was looking at replacing all 4 shocks with Procomp ES3000's and noticed that the front and rear shocks are mounted differently. (upper shock mounts on the fronts have a stem mount rather than an "eyelet" type) and the pro comps are shown as having an eyelet mount for both upper and lower shock mounts. I'm just confused, probably over nothing... but still confused.

What part numbers of the ES3000's will fit the front? Or can someone recommend some better/cheaper shocks that will also fair well off the pavement?

I've got a 2000 Eddie 4x4

 

[maclupton]

probably a realllly stupid question but would bigger shocks give a lift?

 

[RNV]

mpntball - Unless the ad or picture associated with the part number specifically says "Actual part shown", or something in that nature, it is highly doubtful that the pic you are looking at is the actual part. There are 4 main shock mounting systems.


maclupton - Taller shocks will not lift your vehicle, but they will break very easy and limit your suspension travel.

 

[ignis]

I purchased some MONROE 32296 shocks that match the original post. However, they do not look like they match my 2002 Ford Explorer.

My Explorer looks like it has a single mounting bolt on the bottom that goes through shock. The ones pictured (and what I received) have two mounting holes on the sides at the bottom.

How can this be? Is my Explorer a different gernation or something? If so, what shocks do I need?

 

[RNV]

2WD, 4WD, or AWD? I work at NAPA and will look them up for you to assure you got either the right or wrong ones.

 

[ignis]

2WD, 4WD, or AWD? I work at NAPA and will look them up for you to assure you got either the right or wrong ones.

RNV, It's a 4WD.
Thanks!

I took a closer look at the ones on my truck last night and and certain the way the front struts mount, these ones won't work. I'm really confused with this because 32296 is what the Monroe website calls for.

 

[Bigham]

Thanks for the instructions here. Just finished front today and back last week. Next step is to fix the left side lean and then get an alignment.

 

[thufir60]

Who manufacturers and what is the part number for the 5th shock or the stabilizer shock?

 

[nguyen_3]

Thanks for starting this thread, the pictures are great.

I tackled the Front shocks on 4/7/2012 - here are my tips:
1. Like someone said, I hack-sawed the top of the shock (since I didn't have a 15mm deep socket). Buy the deep socket, it is much easier after that.

2. On both sides, the bottom 13mm bolts stripped as I was removing them. I ended up buying a Stripped Nut remover set ($30 at Sears). Again, much easier after I had this handy-dandy tool.

3. Use a long-handled rachet-wrench.

4. I only needed to peel back the wheel hub mud covers half-way.

5. Don't be afraid to get under the car after you jack-stand it. The car won't move or jerk when you remove the shock.

<I didn't post any pictures, because the original poster did a great job already>

Next Saturday, I'll tackle the rear shocks...thanks everyone and good luck.

 

[FU MONSTER]

Thanks for the awesome write up.replaced my shocks without jacking up the car.EASY!!!! Def recommend doing this instead of paying someone else.

 

[bb56]

Hey all - just a tip:
If you plan to replace your shocks, it usually takes a few days before you a) get the parts and b) plan some time to do the job. On the day you inspect your car to see what the shocks look like, spray the mounting hardware with penetrating oil. Even WD-40 works well. I use Kroil. Over the next few days before trying to remove the nuts and bolts - use a wire brush on the hardware and spray again. Do this several times. You will be very surprised at how much easier they will come off. Don't forget to spray the air hose connections and wire brush those too. If the capture ring does not push in to release the hose, use a very sharp razor utility knife and cut it flush with the shock, peel back the outer shell about 5/8" by slicing carefully around the hose. (I used a coax cable stripper - worked great).
Good luck!

BB

 

[5.0L V8]

So I just got my Monroe Monro Matic Plus'. I did the 2 rear and the rear stabilizer. Waiting to do the front after work tomorrow. Didnt wanna start somthing I couldn't finish before nightfall. This Write-Up was an excellent source of information X6Stringer. Really appreciate the time you took to make this.

So just double checking, tomorrow when I do the fronts, I just jack up one side of the vehichle at a time? The only open spot on the frame for the jack I could see was about halfway down, right under the rear set of doors. Is this about where you had your jack planted?

Thanks again, you saved my ass alot of $$$ !

-Evan

 

[X6StringerX]

Depending on the type of jack you have, you'll have some options. If you use a scissor jack, PLEASE make sure you place some blocks under the vehicle. Scissor jacks are fine for a quick tire change beside the road, but any time you are partially under the vehicle, a floorjack is preferred. With that being said, if you have a floorjack, I would just place it on the crossmember up front. I would still have some sort of secondary safety net. I like to use 6"x6" wood blocks. Never use cinder blocks as they aren't particularly strong when a lot of pressure is focused in one specific point. You want to make sure you would have enough room to get yourself out of harm's way in the event that the jack fails.

 

[5.0L V8]

I gotta floor jack. Bottle and Scissors jacks are out of the question for me.
So the crossmember right in between where the lower control arms meet up? How long should the fronts take if everything goes smoothly? I haven't started to soak them yet in the PB yet. I read about people really munching up the top shock mount nut. What are the chances of mine being really stubborn?

 

[X6StringerX]

If you're in a dry climate away from salt water, it probably won't be too bad if you soak them overnight. I live in an environment where they dump salt by the tons all winter. I've soaked mine on all of the Explorers I've owned, and I've still managed to break the top stud on almost all of the front shocks. It's no biggy though. The studs are made into the shock body, so your new shocks have fresh studs. Seeing as how there are only 6 total nuts to remove and a wee bit of squating and squeezing, you should be able to finish both sides in about 45 minutes with hand tools if this is your first go around.

 

[5.0L V8]

Nice, thanks for the input man !
Got the torque specs for the top post mounts? I dont wanna go effing up my new bushing by over-tightening them.

 

[X6StringerX]

According to the Mitchell1 repair guide, the upper nut should be 30-41 ft lbs. The lowers should be 15-21 ft. lbs. These readings should be achieved after the vehicle is lowered from the jack.

 

[X6StringerX]

Just for the heck of it, I looked up the specs for the rear shocks too. The specs are as follows:

Shock-to-Frame Nut: 17 ft. lbs.
Shock Lower Bolt: 45 ft. lbs.