C420sailor
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- July 29, 2008
- Messages
- 2,316
- Reaction score
- 1,891
- City, State
- Long Island, NY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 98 XLT SOHC, 99 EB 5.0L
For those of you battling saggy butt syndrome (SBS), this is the fix. I did a decent amount of research, and while many suggested the Monroe shocks, the mechanical engineer in me didn't like the idea of the shocks/mounts supporting the load that the leaf springs should be supporting. I made the decision to replace the flattened out leafs. It's an easy job but takes some time---and an air impact is a VERY nice to have.
Parts:
(2) Leaf Springs from Michigan Truck Spring (http://www.truckspring.com) $105/each.
(2) Rear Shackles by Husky Spring (RockAuto---come with bolts)
(2) Front leaf spring bolts by Husky Spring (Rock Auto)
(4) U-bolts by Husky Spring (Rock Auto---comes with nuts/washers)
Steps:
1) Drop the spare.
2) Chock the front wheels. Jack the ass end of the truck until the rear wheels just barely leave the ground and put jackstands under each frame rail just forward of the leafs. Support the axle tubes with small jackstands.
3) Remove the right wheel (not required, but makes access easier)
4) Unbolt the shock from the u-bolt plate and move it out of the way. (15mm bolt, 18mm nut)
5) Unbolt the parking brake cable bracket from the u-bolt plate (10mm)
6) Remove the u-bolt nuts (18mm)
7) Unbolt the rear shackle from the frame (21mm) while supporting it with your off hand. The spring may be somewhat stuck to the axle tube, but a good smack with a mallet/hammer will free it. Lower the aft portion of the spring to the ground.
8) Remove the front spring bolt/nut (21mm) and lower the front of the spring to the ground. Get the spring out of the way.
9) Verify that the hole in the center of the u-bolt plate is large enough to accomodate the nut on the center bolt in your new leaf pack. Mine was too small, so I drilled/filed it out a bit.
10) Hang the rear shackle. Do not tighten nut. I didn't bother replacing the bushing, as the old one seems to have been pressed in like a MFer, and still looked okay.
11) Referencing the spring still installed on the other side, orient the new spring in the proper direction and get it lined up underneath the trucklet
12) Lift the front of the spring into place and insert the bolt. Do not tighten nut.
13) Using your man strength, push the rear of the spring up into the shackle and insert the new bolt, thread the nut.
14) Use a little persuasion (I kicked it) to get the top of the leaf pack center bolt to seat in the alignment hole in the axle tube. When you see it, it'll make sense.
15) Drop the new u-bolts into position, replace the u-bolt plate, and thread the washers/nuts on finger tight.
16) Tighten the front bolt, shackle bolts to spec. I torqued mine to 105ft*lbs, but reference your shop manual for the correct values.
17) Tighten the u-bolt nuts evenly (I used a criss-cross pattern, jumping from nut to nut every couple of turns) to spec. Husky recommended 65ft*lbs, while the shop manual recommended something like 108ft*lbs. I went with the manual's recommendation---over to you.
18) Re-attach the parking brake cable bracket
19) Use your floor jack to get the extended shock back into position. Install the bolt and tighten to spec. Re-install the wheel.
20) Repeat for the other side.
21) Lower the vehicle and re-install the spare.
22) Drive the vehicle for 20-30 miles and re-check u-bolt torque.
I'm not a professional, so YMMV---and I'm sure some guys who have BTDT will chime in with corrections/techniques. The back of my trucklet now sits 1.5-2" higher, doesn't droop NEARLY as much when it's loaded, and the suspension feels much tighter. I love it. Best of luck!
Parts:
(2) Leaf Springs from Michigan Truck Spring (http://www.truckspring.com) $105/each.
(2) Rear Shackles by Husky Spring (RockAuto---come with bolts)
(2) Front leaf spring bolts by Husky Spring (Rock Auto)
(4) U-bolts by Husky Spring (Rock Auto---comes with nuts/washers)
Steps:
1) Drop the spare.
2) Chock the front wheels. Jack the ass end of the truck until the rear wheels just barely leave the ground and put jackstands under each frame rail just forward of the leafs. Support the axle tubes with small jackstands.
3) Remove the right wheel (not required, but makes access easier)
4) Unbolt the shock from the u-bolt plate and move it out of the way. (15mm bolt, 18mm nut)
5) Unbolt the parking brake cable bracket from the u-bolt plate (10mm)
6) Remove the u-bolt nuts (18mm)
7) Unbolt the rear shackle from the frame (21mm) while supporting it with your off hand. The spring may be somewhat stuck to the axle tube, but a good smack with a mallet/hammer will free it. Lower the aft portion of the spring to the ground.
8) Remove the front spring bolt/nut (21mm) and lower the front of the spring to the ground. Get the spring out of the way.
9) Verify that the hole in the center of the u-bolt plate is large enough to accomodate the nut on the center bolt in your new leaf pack. Mine was too small, so I drilled/filed it out a bit.
10) Hang the rear shackle. Do not tighten nut. I didn't bother replacing the bushing, as the old one seems to have been pressed in like a MFer, and still looked okay.
11) Referencing the spring still installed on the other side, orient the new spring in the proper direction and get it lined up underneath the trucklet
12) Lift the front of the spring into place and insert the bolt. Do not tighten nut.
13) Using your man strength, push the rear of the spring up into the shackle and insert the new bolt, thread the nut.
14) Use a little persuasion (I kicked it) to get the top of the leaf pack center bolt to seat in the alignment hole in the axle tube. When you see it, it'll make sense.
15) Drop the new u-bolts into position, replace the u-bolt plate, and thread the washers/nuts on finger tight.
16) Tighten the front bolt, shackle bolts to spec. I torqued mine to 105ft*lbs, but reference your shop manual for the correct values.
17) Tighten the u-bolt nuts evenly (I used a criss-cross pattern, jumping from nut to nut every couple of turns) to spec. Husky recommended 65ft*lbs, while the shop manual recommended something like 108ft*lbs. I went with the manual's recommendation---over to you.
18) Re-attach the parking brake cable bracket
19) Use your floor jack to get the extended shock back into position. Install the bolt and tighten to spec. Re-install the wheel.
20) Repeat for the other side.
21) Lower the vehicle and re-install the spare.
22) Drive the vehicle for 20-30 miles and re-check u-bolt torque.
I'm not a professional, so YMMV---and I'm sure some guys who have BTDT will chime in with corrections/techniques. The back of my trucklet now sits 1.5-2" higher, doesn't droop NEARLY as much when it's loaded, and the suspension feels much tighter. I love it. Best of luck!
