Intermittent no start , no crank, no click

[94Fexplorerxlt]

I have a 2008 Explorer XLT - 198,000 miles and sometimes It won't start, I get no crank , no click , nothing . I figured out if I take the starter relay out and let it cool off a bit it will then start but Im not entirely sure that they are the problem. I replaced all 4 of those size relays just incase but still does it. This all seems to happen on days where its warmer out , maybe 75F or higher but the explorer is not overheating . This usually seems to happen more on short trips maybe 10 minutes or so . I just got a new radiator too . I tried to get the mechanic to look into it but basically, they said they didn't want to in a nice way . It always eventually starts but this is seriously annoying especially when getting groceries. Anybody know what this could be ?

 

[DintDobbs]

No crank, no click? You sure it isn't a worn spring in the shifter? I had an issue once or twice in my Sport where the shifter wasn't completely seated in "Park" and it caused no crank no click. I looked everywhere I could think of before trying the simple solution...

Try moving the shifter forward and back a bit and see how the spring feels. If you can push it back even a tiny bit after releasing it, this is likely your problem.

 

[94Fexplorerxlt]

No crank, no click? You sure it isn't a worn spring in the shifter? I had an issue once or twice in my Sport where the shifter wasn't completely seated in "Park" and it caused no crank no click. I looked everywhere I could think of before trying the simple solution...

Try moving the shifter forward and back a bit and see how the spring feels. If you can push it back even a tiny bit after releasing it, this is likely your problem.

Shifter feels fine

 

[D Hook]

Had this same condition about a year ago. Turned out to be the starter was rusted so bad it wouldn't work. (Road salt.) New starter, all is well.

 

[DintDobbs]

@94Fexplorerxlt Do consider replacing the starter, or at least check the wiring harnesses and ground connections. No-crank is usually an easy fix, crank-no-start is usually a harder fix.

The high ambient temperature and short trip observations might be worth something, but I don't really know what to make of that. A healthy starter shouldn't be significantly affected by heat.

 

[94Fexplorerxlt]

Thanks guys I might as well replace the starter, it is the factory one so if it's not even the problem now it will probably need replacing soon anyways. Should I try to stick with motorcraft brand ? or is anyone decent? I'd hate to replace it just to have it fail cause of quality. I'll report back after I do.

I plan on keeping this explorer as long as I can. It's been a really good vehicle minus the basic things needing to be replaced but that's every vehicle. Surprised my trans has lasted as long as it has , It probably helps that Installed the AJ1E o-ring servos back in 2015. If this trans does go out, I'm going to order a rebuilt transmission from Shift rite transmissions that has the brass sleeves and upgrade kits already in it.

 

[DintDobbs]

Motorcraft all the way. If the original lasts 20 years, replacing it with another original will last another 20 years. That's my logic, at least.

 

[Blackhawkxx]

If this trans does go out, I'm going to order a rebuilt transmission from Shift rite transmissions that has the brass sleeves and upgrade kits already in it.

Thanks. I bookmarked that site in the sad case I ever need it.

 

[94Fexplorerxlt]

Update :

Turns out the intermittent no start thing was my alternator . I was out driving the other day and my check charging system dash light came on. Figuring it wasn’t operating that well all this time and not giving the battery enough juice and it finally bit the dust fully . I guess after letting it sit for a bit after a not start situation the voltages would even out or whatever giving the starter enough to crank .

Lol I had ordered a new starter too but didn’t get around to putting it in so I’ll have one now if the original ever goes out .

 

[94Eddie]

Thanks for the update. I am sure it will help someone in the future.

 

[94Fexplorerxlt]

I'm still having this issue :


When I take short trips and the temps are 75F or higher my explorer doesn’t want to start , no crank no nothing no sound . I just replaced the starter and alternator . Battery is like 3 years old but it’s a good good 800 CCA . I suailly swap around the relays and it eventually starts . I’ve replaced these relays with OEM surplus stock before , has anyone had this happen before and figure out what it is . It’s annoying during the summer dealing with this especially when getting groceries on a hot day.


I'm still having this issue but on top of this I have rough idle like it drops rpm and acts like its going to stall . Also I was driving other day and engine shut off and I lost all power steering and it wouldn't start back up for like 10 minutes. I've used an OBD scanner and my engine temp is 185F so I dont think its overheating. This is very annoying as I dont want to scrap this vehicle but I cant trust it anymore . There's no codes or anything . Mechanics dont know what to tell me . Anyone have a solution ? I've changed EGR valve, PCV , Crank shaft position sensor , cam shaft position sensor . Nearly everything

 

[DintDobbs]

I had that issue - occasional refusal to start and random stalling (particularly when idling, coming to a full stop, or when shifting from D to R or R to D after coming to a full stop) and subsequent refusal to start - but mine would always crank. Mine was also simultaneously running a P0455 (EVAP gross leak) due to a disconnected charcoal canister (Lord knows how that occurred) and a P0443 (EGR purge valve solenoid circuit fault). I replaced both charcoal canisters, the canister vent valve (which was disconnected from the canister, likely exposing the canisters' internals to water in my use case), and the EGR purge valve (which was clogged with dirt), and the issue has not returned.

The absence of related trouble codes in your case seems to indicate that none of my conditions are relevant here, but it can't hurt to give the canisters and related hardware a look, right?

 

[94Fexplorerxlt]

You know I just read that a failing ignition switch can cause the no crank no start as well as an engine stalling while driving. I replaced mine back in 2014 because the interior lights kept coming on, it's not doing that now but doesn't mean there's not an issue with it.

 

[DintDobbs]

That is worth some thing. Also I imagine an intermittently-failing PATS could present similar issues to a failing ignition switch, may be others can confirm or deny. If the THEFT light isn't doing any thing unusual, then I'd ignore that possibility and look at the ignition switch itself.

 

[94Fexplorerxlt]

That is worth some thing. Also I imagine an intermittently-failing PATS could present similar issues to a failing ignition switch, may be others can confirm or deny. If the THEFT light isn't doing any thing unusual, then I'd ignore that possibility and look at the ignition switch itself.

I had airbag light come in yesterday Which makes me think of ignition switch so I picked one up today and change it out. I think he fixed . I changed it a few times before that issue were the lights were coming on and off, so I didn’t think that it was this . My idle is normal , airbag light is out and it started right back up after a short trip so I think I’m good knock on wood

 

[DintDobbs]

@94Fexplorerxlt Let us know if it has any other issues, hopefully that resolved it!

 

[94Fexplorerxlt]

Well...... I spoke too soon. This didn't fix it.

Took it for a drive earlier and about 20 mins of highway and city driving and fully warmed up I stopped to fill up gas ( 93 grade ) and when I went to turn it back on I got the no click / no crank / no start .

Popped hood for 5 to 10 minutes and took out the starter relays and let them cool off ( I have had to do this for past couple of years when this would happen, not sure it really does anything but noticed awhile back those relays have been warm or maybe they always were warm and I just didn't notice it ) and it eventually started back up. I drove 10 mins back to my place turned it off and then it did the no click no crank no start thing again. Also, every minute or two while idling it dips and sounds like it's going to stall out again. Engine is not overheating, and coolant temp is staying around 185 degrees.

Here's a list of all the things I can remember that I have changed in past year or two

ignition switch
had the PCM professionally fixed, had like 4 or false codes cause of some capacitor or such failing.
camshaft position sensor
crankshaft position sensor
Battery
egr valve
pcv valve
canister purge valve
radiator
alternator
Starter
belts
belt tensioner
fuel filter
all of the fuses
all of the relays minus the square greyish one under the hood , forget what that one is for

I haven't changed the spark plugs in maybe 3 years, but I wouldn't think that would cause the no crank/no click issue
I have never changed the fuel pump, could a failing fuel pump cause the stalling, and no start issue I'm having?

like I mentioned before I am getting ZERO codes

I want to just take it to somebody, and have it fixed but every mechanic has been clueless

I currently have 225K miles on this explorer and transmission has been great (after I put in the AJ1e servos with o-rings around 50K miles) as well as the engine, so I feel like this has to be something electrical. This is seriously driving me crazy cause I love this vehicle and want to keep driving it, but I don't trust it anymore till this issue gets taken care of.

Please anybody out there who sees this and knows what it is let me know.

 

[94Fexplorerxlt]

something to note too is when engine is on the key can wiggle slightly if i touch it making the overhead lights come on . not sure if that could cause the issues I'm having though

 

[94Fexplorerxlt]

Ok update on this, I saw a post about the OTIS diodes going bad because of faults in the main wiring harness so I checked mine pulled it out and put back in it was fine.

Next, I checked the main wiring harness that goes across behind the engine near the EGR valve and it had multiple spots on it where the plastic tube had cracked showing the bundles of wires. There was one part of it where the wires were touching a piece of the EGR valve mount, they were not cut exposing any of the conductors though. I wrapped it all with electrical tape and viola all the issues are gone. It's been two days now and everything is fine. Probably driven 100 miles and turned off and on numerous times and starts right up .Rough idle or stalling is gone.

Could the wires touching the metal caused any interference with the electrical signals running through it therefore causing the rough idle and stalling and no crank situation?

Other than that, I'm thinking another cause could be the OBD2 port dash cam power cord. I've been using a dash cam for many years and these electrical issues started around that time. I recently unplugged it becuase Ive been using the OBD2 port to scan for codes and check parameters.

Guess to be safe I'm going to just use the cigarette lighter power cord now instead of the OBD2 port.

I've been running some techron in my fuel too incase something was blocked up but feel like if that was the case the starter would have still be cranking .

 

[DintDobbs]

Damaged wiring can cause all kinds of issues, some of which can be intermittent. I'd be willing to bet that you've resolved it for good this time.