Intermittent stalling

[Paul Gagnon]

I think that I have finally figured out my intermittent stalling problem. I got code 211(PIP fault) off of my computer. I figured that it was the crank trigger so I replaced it. Well $95 later(part only) I still had the problem. After looking at the schematic for the ignition the only other thing that made sense was to change the EDIS module. I went to the Ford dealer we use at work, and the little ******* costs $325 retail, my cost $265. Ouch! With my luck I would buy it and still have the stalling problem, and if I paid Ford to diagnose it they would tell me it was the EDIS module. I talked with the service manager and he lent me a working module. I put it in today and went for a drive. So far so good. Tomorrow I will test it again. If it works I guess I have to buy one. I will let you know how it went.

 

[Paul Gagnon]

No luck. Dead Link Removed The stalling continues. My engine runs smooth and strong but once I drive it for about an hour around town it stalls for no reason. Seems to be heat related. I am positive that this is electrical. When it decides to fail it just stops, even if I am moving. This is really getting frustrating. Dead Link Removed Any ideas?


Anyone want to buy an Explorer?

 

[Big Worm]

Paul- What year model and type in your explorer? Also what mod's do you have that are engine/performance related? Also did you make any changes or mod's not very long before this started happening? Give me a little background and I'll try to help-I worked at a Ford Dealership for 5 years...

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Big Worm

 

[Paul Gagnon]

It is a 92 4.0L automatic. Dead Link Removed There are no mods done to the engine. This started happening in October. At first I thought it was stalling because it was cold. Later I realized that it only happened when the engine was warmed up. I am not over heating and the outside temperature today was -10C so I do not think that it is vapour lock. Especially since this never happened in the summer. Also I can hear the fuel pump running when I turn the key so I don't think it is that. The check engine light only comes on once the engine has stalled, it does not come on when the engine is running. The code 211 is a continuous memory code. I get no other code from the computer, except that it it fails the KOER test(code 538 insufficient change in RPM/operator error in Dynamic Response Check). I tried cleaning the throttle body and mass air sensor. All that did was make it run better, it had no effect on the stalling problem. Thankfully it never failed when I was in the mountains with my girlfriend, but then again..... Dead Link Removed At first it would only happen ocasionally but it is getting worse. A friend told me that it might be the coil but I cannot afford to just randomly start replacing ignition components. I don't want to have to pay the dealer to find this but I am running out of ideas.

[This message has been edited by Paul Gagnon (edited 03-07-99).]

 

[Mac]

Paul, if your mass air flow sensor is dirty, it could also cause this problem. The cost to fix it is about $1.95 for a can of carburator cleaner from the auto parts store. Remove the four bolts connecting the MAF to the air box, disconnect the electrical connection and remove from air intake hose. Remove the metal screen, I used a scribe, and spray the carb cleaner directly on the sensor elements inside the smallo tube. Be careful though, they are just small heat sensing wires, but if they get gummed up they can cause improper mixtures of fuel and cause stalling. Good Luck.

 

[Big Worm]

One more thing, does it start right up after stalling out or do you have to let it cool off?

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Big Worm

 

[Paul Gagnon]

I have to let it cool off first. It gets progresively worse the longer I drive. The first time it will start right away, but by the time I get close to home I have to wait a few minutes to start it. If I do not make it home before the first stall, it takes a long time to get there.

 

[Big Worm]

Unfortunately, that sounds like a defective coil in my opinion. I've seen a lot of units-not Explorers in particular-show those same symptoms and a coil has fixed it 75% of the time. That's the best I can do without having the unit. Hope this helps.

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Big Worm

 

[Paul Gagnon]

I will try the coil. It has 178,000km (111,000 miles) on it so I expect a few things to need replacing. At least I did not waste any money on the EDIS module. I'll let you know what happens.

 

[Paul Gagnon]

I just changed the coil today after work. It was easy but the coil was not cheap. I took it out for a drive and after at least 1 1/2 hours it did not stall. I think that fixes the stalling. If that doesn't cure the stalling I think I am going to put the whole bloody truck in the blender!

 

[Paul Gagnon]

I give up! Dead Link Removed Dead Link Removed Dead Link Removed I guess I am going to have to take it to the dealer because I have no more ideas about this. Anybody want to buy a stupid stalling piece of junk? Give me enough for a 26er of Rum and you can take it away, you might only get a few blocks though!

 

[Big Worm]

Dead Link Removed Dang, Paul, sorry to hear that! From your last post I thought you had it licked, if it follows Murphy's Law it's probably a 39 cent diode or something like that causing your problem that the dealer will charge you 7 million dollars to fix...Good luck.

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Big Worm

 

[Paul Gagnon]

I took my truck to the Ford dealer last week(for the whole week). They told me that it would not stall for them. They did however tell me that the EDIS module was the problem based on the codes that I had given them(huh? Why was I paying?). I was very reluctant but I had them install the module. I went for a drive on Saturday and what do you know? I barely made it home!

On Monday I took it back to the dealer, stalling 15 or so times along the way. Yesterday they told me that it was the computer and I needed to replace it. They also charged me 1/2 hour labour for the mechanic to put two very small pieces(3/4" long) of heat shrink on two wires that went to the coil. Why didn't they find this last week when they were diagnosing the problem? Also on Monday the mechanic had the nerve to ask if ther was gas in the truck when it stalled!

Needless to say I am not at all impressed with the service I recieved from Marlborough Ford in Calgary. They told me that they would not just start throwing parts at it, and that is exactly what they did. I could have done the same thing and saved myself close to $300 in labour and taxes. These vultures have now sucked almost $830 out of my pocket.

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Paul Gagnon
Dead Link Removed

 

[ARCH5O]

stalling

I too am having the stalling problem with my 95 sport. It stalls after i have driven around, starting and stopping. If it's a straight drive to work, it's fine. but I've also noticed that it seems to stall after i have put the car into reverse (out of a parking stall) and then start to drive, i get about 100 feet and it stalls. Nobody I've taken it to can figure the problem either. If anyone has any other suggestions, it's been such a good truck up till now, and i wouldn't want to sell it in this condition either.

 

[Raceit]

This may be a shot in the dark idea here. But last year I had similar problems with my truck just stop running all of a sudden. It turned out to be a wire that goes to the crank shaft sensor. That wire is routed up right in front of the engine and behind all the pullys. The problem was that this wire was not secured after some intake work was done at a shop. So this wire would bounce around and when it hit one of the pullys it would short out and kill the engine. I think it did it while it was both cold and hot.
So the fix was a zip tie to secure the wire and I was good to go.
May be worth a check for loose wires. Since this was actually missed by a local shop since it was so hidden down behind the belts and what not.

 

[Raceit]

And why the hell did i just reply to a post that started 4 years ago.

Sheesh!