Is 1995 Explorer one of a kind

[JohnBlackWolf]

Wanted to get with you , I don't think the

On fuel pump.... first verify which country your Explorer was manufactured / assembled:
For the location of the assembly plant, look at the first number in your VIN:
1 = USA
2 = Canada
3 = Mexico

If USA, you want this one, and Carter is good quality brand as well:
Clink on link >> LINK

**Canada model might / likely takes same as U.S. model, but Mexico one is DIFFEREN

 

[JohnBlackWolf]

Been wanting to get with you the link you sent me I ordered pump but they have missed shipping date twice , any other ideas , Partsceeks have them but say they won't work but they are from Mexico same as other

 

[EB4X]

"but they are from Mexico or because they are from Mexico? ...they told you it wont work ?
That's the part number ( Carter P74159 ) that stated it was for my US Explorer back a couple years ago when I needed one...and it installed / fitted in fine.

 

[EB4X]

Here's another USA / Canada compatible one for OUR 95's ....DENSO brand.... and the price is good...even have make offer option...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2332399954...ZWF5H8&hash=item364e2fe434:g:p-cAAOSwsAVclCX0

Same company I got my Carter one from ....
Shows standard shipping though as default...so might want to throw a few more bucks to expedite if necessary...

(A long time member here (masospagetti) said Denso is top notch brand > Poor Idle and no acceleration )

 

[JohnBlackWolf]

My pump came this morning , thanks for your help ,

Here's another USA / Canada compatible one for OUR 95's ....DENSO brand.... and the price is good...even have make offer option...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2332399954...ZWF5H8&hash=item364e2fe434:g:p-cAAOSwsAVclCX0

Same company I got my Carter one from ....
Shows standard shipping though as default...so might want to throw a few more bucks to expedite if necessary...

(A long time member here (masospagetti) said Denso is top notch brand > Poor Idle and no acceleration )

 

[JohnBlackWolf]

Part came this morning thanks for help

 

[JohnBlackWolf]

Part came this morning thanks for help

 

[JohnBlackWolf]

Part came this morning thanks for help

Still dies as I'm driving good fuel pressure dies wait 5 minutes and it will run great for awhile

 

[Gary Crist]

Are these fuel tanks plastic or steel?

I've done steel tanks since '72, in car.

 

[JohnBlackWolf]

Steal

 

[Gary Crist]

OK!!! Piece of cake, or how to clear out the shop.
Only 2 thing will set off gasoline as you know. So, no open flame or sparks
especially down wind. During this process, a lot of gasoline fumes will be
created! I have done this with gasoline streaming down my arms. now for the good part.

Get some acid core solder. Sand the area where the leak/s are located. Get a piece of steel or iron
something that will retain heat. If you have a oxy acc torch the better. If one can drain the tank 1st.,
it will help, as the vaporized gasoline removes heat. Solder as usual but , be quick. Tin the tank 1st.
around the hole. On the last pass slop some solder over the hole. I have heated to cherry red a piece
of steel and soldered no ill effects.

On larger holes, take some hobby sheet brass and tin or plate the brass. Cut and shape and solder
into place. Eventually the brass will be eaten up by acids in the fuel as well as acid core solder.

Once more ANY SPARK (read electrical motor from a fan etc.) or FLAME down wind can cause
serious harm or fire! The 1st. few tanks will scare the hell out of you as the gasoline vaporizes!
No CO2 or water in the tank is needed. The only thing that ever got burned, were my armpits
from fuel running down my arms. If that is the case, a shop rag tied around the wrists helps.

Gary
DE KI6FG

Guess I'll add that the piece of steel is what one uses to solder with. Mine was a 2 inch wide 1/4 inch thick
bent into a U shape hammered flat. Flame was upwind in a different part of the shop.

 

[Pete Deering]

OK!!! Piece of cake, or how to clear out the shop.
Only 2 thing will set off gasoline as you know. So, no open flame or sparks
especially down wind. During this process, a lot of gasoline fumes will be
created! I have done this with gasoline streaming down my arms. now for the good part.

Get some acid core solder. Sand the area where the leak/s are located. Get a piece of steel or iron
something that will retain heat. If you have a oxy acc torch the better. If one can drain the tank 1st.,
it will help, as the vaporized gasoline removes heat. Solder as usual but , be quick. Tin the tank 1st.
around the hole. On the last pass slop some solder over the hole. I have heated to cherry red a piece
of steel and soldered no ill effects.

On larger holes, take some hobby sheet brass and tin or plate the brass. Cut and shape and solder
into place. Eventually the brass will be eaten up by acids in the fuel as well as acid core solder.

Once more ANY SPARK (read electrical motor from a fan etc.) or FLAME down wind can cause
serious harm or fire! The 1st. few tanks will scare the hell out of you as the gasoline vaporizes!
No CO2 or water in the tank is needed. The only thing that ever got burned, were my armpits
from fuel running down my arms. If that is the case, a shop rag tied around the wrists helps.

Gary
DE KI6FG

Dont use a open flame. If you do the tank need fill with water.
You need too use a electric iron too melt the solder.

 

[JohnBlackWolf]

Dont use a open flame. If you do the tank need fill with water.
You need too use a electric iron too melt the solder.

Ok thanks patched inside and out , new fuel pump starts and runs great for 1 to 5 miles then it dies and just noticed the dash goes black no check engine light or anything , so now I'm checking for ground on main wiring harness