Is it worth it?

[aeuerle09]

My 93 X Sport has a few [major] problems that I need to get fixed ASAP, but I don't want to fix the problems and make it stock like it is, I want to fix them and have something a little more off-road worthy. Right now, save for a kick-@$$ paintjob and offroad lights, it's completely stock. The biggest issue is the time and money I'll have to put into it; front brake overhaul, tires, maybe new suspension in the front (the camber is so far in that it looks like the springs could be junk), hubs, bearings and a new driver side door... It's got 211,000 miles on it already and I don't know if I should honestly put what I want into it. I want to put the biggest tires I can on it without it handling like a tank on the road and I want to put manual hubs in it. What do you all suggest for tire size and would I even be able to put manual hubs in it since it's got autos?

Thanks!
Alex

 

[Noved1987]

hubs are doable, tires there has been discussion on here about retreads that are really cheap. but really we dont know enough about your X to know if it is worth it. how does it run, hows the tranny?... really only you car say if its worth it. we can give you opinions and prices but really its up to you and what you want to decide.

 

[bgh1441]

I had this same dilema and then just said F**K it its a ford it will last and i will get some enjoyment out of it, and be proud of what i did.

Just a thought.

 

[alohamonte]

93 w/ 200+ miles and 2 grand in repairs... I say drive it into the ground or pass it off as some $500 winter beater. Get a newer X. You can get 98-01 models all day long for less than $5k.

 

[1993fordexploere]

hey if you want a project you got one!! really though, i think that the first gen x's have the best look to them........if i were you i would look for a first gen with like 160,x.. miles or less.... i mean they last forever dont get me wrong

 

[aeuerle09]

It runs alright, the tranny's still great but I dunno how I feel about putting so much $$$ into a truck that I got for $700, you know? I was hoping maybe someone else had the same experience and could tell me what they did with theirs. I do love this truck though (even though it's a Ford and I've always been a Chevy guy myself...)

 

[aeuerle09]

Maybe a couple pics could show just what I've really got to work with, lol...





Here's what she was before I painted it..




What's the vote? Off-road or scrap it?? :scratch:

 

[Noved1987]

you painted it so you started. might as well finish it.

 

[Riceburner247]

What's the issue with the drivers door?

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Keep it and build it up slowly.

Use this thread to determine what size tires you want, and what you'll need to add in able to run said tire size:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67200

As for largest tire size without major driving problems, it's really all on what YOU want to do. Do you want to just put larger tires but no suspension upgrades for sterring like stabilizer shock or steering assist, or do you want to put large tires and willing to also improve the steering system to assist with the larger tires.

Personally, I'd start and aim for 33" tires, Manual Hubs, and look for 4-6 inch suspension lift. You can raise the rear about 5.5" for less then 50 bucks doing a "Spring Over Axle" conversion. For the front I'd just put in either springs, or springs and spacers, depending on how much you want to spend.

There's a lot of possibilites with these trucks, I say stick with it. Everyone here that has a few thousand invested in their truck are about 95% confident that they wouldn't "not" do it. They may have gone a different way, but they all love their trucks. Once you get everything where it needs to be, then it's just a maintenance routine you'll have to worry about.

Do some searching and reading, and you'll see there's PLENTY to get out of hanging onto these vehicles.

 

[Four0Sport]

if you dont want to put alot of money in the truck.. but still want to have something that isnt stock that you can goof around in, you might want to look into some leveling springs, and rear shackles.. and after that maybe some 31s or 32s. with your factory springs being so worn, the leveling shackles will give you 2 - 2.5 inches more height in the front over the sagged spring. if you look at my registry there is a pic of my sport with leveling springs and shackles.. it wasnt too bad.

what happened to the pass side rear quater behind the door? man..

 

[glfredrick]

For off-road use, you have all you need.

Fix it when it breaks -- and cut off the rusted parts. Make it look better by making it less...

If you look underneath, you'll see that you can trim off a LOT of sheetmetal without disturbing the actual integrity of the body shell. Then, make a few bumpers, bend a bit of tube, and you're on your way.

Modify the front suspension with F250 shock mounts, longer shocks (take-offs from a 1 ton Dodge 4x4 are good), add brake lines from a Superduty, and springs from a 1977 F150, make sway bar disconnects. That will get you about 15" of trouble free travel up front. You can add a bit of lift with a spring spacer under the spring.

Modify the rear suspension by removing the factory overload spring, replace it with one of the universal overloads from any autoparts stores (the long ones that go inside the spring pack). Add longer shocks (4" longer are good). Loosen or re-bend the rear brake line mount so it reaches your axle under full flex. Make or buy a set of 2" longer shackles. That will get you around 12" of useable travel out back.

Add a 3" body lift, and you can fit 33s. That will carry you just about any place you want to go. Who cares about dents, bad paint, etc. Just wheel the snot out of it and have fun.

Here's mine before I sold it to Jman.

 

[aeuerle09]

you painted it so you started. might as well finish it.

Haha, yeah but the paintjob was cheap!

What's the issue with the drivers door?

The latch is broken and the bottom hinge is busted off. The window track is also bent so the window can't be put back into place right. It sucks to close and when it snows, it snows inside the cab :thumbdwn:

As for largest tire size without major driving problems, it's really all on what YOU want to do. Do you want to just put larger tires but no suspension upgrades for sterring like stabilizer shock or steering assist, or do you want to put large tires and willing to also improve the steering system to assist with the larger tires.

Personally, I'd start and aim for 33" tires, Manual Hubs, and look for 4-6 inch suspension lift. You can raise the rear about 5.5" for less then 50 bucks doing a "Spring Over Axle" conversion. For the front I'd just put in either springs, or springs and spacers, depending on how much you want to spend.

There's a lot of possibilites with these trucks, I say stick with it. Everyone here that has a few thousand invested in their truck are about 95% confident that they wouldn't "not" do it. They may have gone a different way, but they all love their trucks. Once you get everything where it needs to be, then it's just a maintenance routine you'll have to worry about.

I was thinking 33's but my dad thinks it'd be a bit tippy and told me not to go bigger than 31's... I still think he's wrong..

How would I go about doing this spring over axle on the rear? And wouldn't I be able to tweek the torsion bar up front to raise it up, too instead of putting all new suspension in it?

what happened to the pass side rear quater behind the door? man..

I'm not really sure, actually. It was like that when I bought it. It looks like it was hit with something hard and small from the side. I honestly don't have the slightest clue. I took a look at your 2 door X and I like the way that looks! It's not overly excessive, but it's a heck of a lot better than it did when it was stock.

Fix it when it breaks -- and cut off the rusted parts. Make it look better by making it less...

That'd mean about 5-6" off the bottom would be gone, though. I'm already planning on cutting out the fenders when the bigger tires go on, but the bottom of the sides are pretty well rusted through, too. Maybe I could cut the rust off and weld on some new sheet metal?

Thanks for all the help guys, the hamster wheel in my head's really turning now!

 

[carlson1038]

The 1st gen explorers do not have torsion bars.

Figure out your repair costs and then look at the local classified ads and price out other explorers, you might be able to get a different one for a lot less that your repair costs. You should be able to get a nice one for less than 2K. Keep your old one for parts and you will make up that $700 quickly.

Either way, make sure you are having fun with it. That is what they are for.

 

[glfredrick]

1) 33s are not "tippy." A truck that is too tall can be. If you modify the suspension and add tires, know that you've modified your vehicle handling and don't expect it to drive like a Porche. I ran 33s on mine and I think it handled better than stock.

2) Springing over the rear axle is a great way to get 5.5" of lift. It is fairly simple if you can grind and weld, and even if you can't it is a reasonable job to take on. Just pick up a set of weld on spring perches, figure out where they have to be on the top of the axle, and weld them on. You'll also have to extend the brake line if you go that route, and the driveshaft may or may not work out. Check it. If it is too close to the end of the spines, it could come apart if you flex the truck out.

Going the 5.5" lift route means a committment to spend some real money in the front end, however, hence the suggestion to lift it about 1-2" with cheap means and use a body lift for the additional 3" (doesn't effect suspension and is cheapest way to go). Up front, you'll need a 6" lift, which means steering issues that are pricey and difficult at best.

Mine in the pics above is set up like I suggested in my post -- it worked VERY well.

3) Find a door in the salvage yard and stick it on. Simple 6 bolts and if you have electric locks, etc., a couple of wires to unplug. If you can't find a decent one, let me know, we have a pull-a-part here in Louisville that likely has a bunch of decent ones. Wish you had a four-door -- I have a very nice set of doors (manual everything) for one of those. Change out the lock cylinders and you keep the same keys, otherwise, make sure you get a key!

4) I have a set of Dana 35 manual hubs (used factory) that I'll sell. Let me know. ($50, you pay to ship). Manual is best -- period. The auto ones will fail the time you really need them. Ask me (and about 10,000 others) how I know...

5) Cut a piece of sheet metal and rivet it over the gash in the side. Who cares... As long as the truck runs. Stop thinking beauty queen -- that she'll never be, but it can run... Again, my silver one in the pics above was picked up after a front end wreck for $200. I cut away what I couldn't fix, pulled the rest out by using a chain hooked to a tree, and hammered it down until it was close enough to work, then wheeled the snot out of it. I ran that truck for another 4 years after buying it, drove it from one end of the country to the other (yes, DROVE to Moab, wheeled it, drove home, drove to Florida, wheeled the beach, drove home, drove to Wisconsin... drove to Pennsylvainia, etc., etc., etc.) and the truck is STILL running in Jman's hands. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205372

6) At the bottom of the cab, cut out enough of the sheetmetal to weld in a 2 x 4" steel tube. Patch it as needed to connect it to the body, and make a couple of supports welded to the frame. That way, you fix a rust problem and make a good set of sliders in one swipe. Something like this, only set them right into the lower part of the body.

 

[Four0Sport]

6) At the bottom of the cab, cut out enough of the sheetmetal to weld in a 2 x 4" steel tube. Patch it as needed to connect it to the body, and make a couple of supports welded to the frame. That way, you fix a rust problem and make a good set of sliders in one swipe. Something like this, only set them right into the lower part of the body.

thats what i was thinking about doing to eliminate the rust that is eating away my rockers. simple, strong, looks decent.

 

[glfredrick]

thats what i was thinking about doing to eliminate the rust that is eating away my rockers. simple, strong, looks decent.

And easy enough to do. Just a cut-off wheel and you are on your way.

I've partially done the job on my Ranger cab, and it was cake. I just scribed a line, cut with the wheel, pulled out the old sheetmetal and rust, and stuck in a 2x4 (or 2x6, etc.). Tack it to the sheetmetal, build up what is missing, and make braces to the frame.

I'll be doing this to my new cab for my project build. Also, the exo will run off the rock rails.

Also, check out this article:

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techar...4x4_truck_boatsiding_techniques/photo_01.html

 

[aeuerle09]

I broke down and started building up. My friend had a couple sets of 31's and I bought a set for $20 from him. I also built a new front bumper for it since the stock one was bent up when I rear-ended someone a few months back. The guy I bought the tires from has an F-350 he's parting out so I'll be buying the springs from that to raise the front and do the spring-over-axle on the back. I have yet to get it all put on the truck, but when I do I'll get some pics up!

 

[aeuerle09]

Got the bumper and lights on it last night. Will be doing tires tomorrow. I'll probably be making a new grill for it, too. I "broke" the old one

Pics are kind of blurry, but when you're using a camera that's been indoors for 6 months in 3 degrees, the lense tends to fog up.

 

[glfredrick]

Good first attempt...

Now, go back and clip the corners off so you have some clearance, or you'll have a big old plow up front that will get hung up on everything.

When I did mine, I raised it up higher, right under the grill for more clearance.

Here's my rear bumper.