Is there a how to on v8 manifold replacement?

[Mbrooks420]

I have searched and didn't really come up with anything. This is so common I figured there would be one. My '98 has been leaking since I got it, and now my inspection guy won't pass it this time(along with a host of other ball-busting repairs)

I have no desire to do this, since I am sure that I will snap bolts off, which means yanking the motor or at least the head. This couldn't have happened at a worse time. I wish I hadn't bought new tires, and replaced the ball joints. Otherwise I would very seriously consider sending it to the scrap yard.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

I have searched and didn't really come up with anything. This is so common I figured there would be one. My '98 has been leaking since I got it, and now my inspection guy won't pass it this time(along with a host of other ball-busting repairs)

I have no desire to do this, since I am sure that I will snap bolts off, which means yanking the motor or at least the head. This couldn't have happened at a worse time. I wish I hadn't bought new tires, and replaced the ball joints. Otherwise I would very seriously consider sending it to the scrap yard.

The Torque Monster Header install sticky will show you to do it.

 

[techieman33]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172258

 

[Mbrooks420]

Yikes. I have a feeling the whole motor is coming out.

 

[Turdle]

Do you have to replace gaskets? Lower intake also?

 

[Mbrooks420]

My EGR tube is cracked. The mechanic also thinks that the manifold is cracked. Lower intake is fine as far as I know. I'm working on boxing in the rear of the cab right now. I am very not happy with this. He put a sticker on my dad's truck without even LOOKING at it.

 

[GETMYBELTSON]

edit: sorry, thought you were looking for intake manifold how to

Lower:

Intake Manifold—Lower
Removal

Drain the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.
Disconnect the radiator overflow hose and position aside.
Remove the upper intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Intake Manifold—Upper in this section.
Disconnect the water bypass hose from the water heater tube.

Disconnect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) electrical connector.

Remove the wire harness retainer nut.

Disconnect the heater water hoses.

Disconnect the two PCV heater hoses from the water heater tube
Disconnect the upper radiator hose.

Remove the water bypass hose.
Loosen the water bypass hose clamps.
Remove the water bypass hose.

Disconnect the eight fuel injector electrical connectors.

Disconnect the fuel line. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00.
Disconnect the ground strap at the rear of the lower intake manifold.

Disconnect the water temperature indicator sender electrical connector.

Remove the camshaft position (CMP) sensor and the camshaft synchronizer. For additional information, refer to Section 303-14.
Remove the bolts.

Remove the lower intake manifold and discard the lower gasket.

Installation

NOTE: Use Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A to clean the gasket surfaces of the lower intake manifold, cylinder heads, and the cylinder block.

Apply a 1.6mm (0.06) bead of sealer in the corners where the cylinder head and cylinder block meet.
Use Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G323-A4.

Position the four lower gaskets.
Install the intake manifold seal tabs to notch in the lower intake manifold gaskets.
Press firmly along the entire length of the intake manifold seal until silicone sealant is visible.

Position the lower intake manifold and start the bolts.

Tighten the lower intake manifold in two steps.
Step 1: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Step 2: Tighten to 32 Nm (24 lb-ft).
Install the camshaft position (CMP) sensor and the camshaft synchronizer. For additional information, refer to Section 303-14.
Connect the rear ground strap to the rear of the lower intake manifold.

Connect the water temperature indicator sender electrical connector.

Connect the eight fuel injector electrical connectors.

Reconnect the fuel line. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00.
Install the water bypass hose.
Position the water bypass hose.
Install the two clamps.

Connect the upper radiator hose.

Connect the heater water hoses.

Install the wire harness retainer nut.

Connect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) electrical connector.

Connect the water heater bypass hose to the heater tube.

Connect the two PCV heater hoses to the heater tube.
Install the upper intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Intake Manifold—Upper in this section.
Connect the radiator overflow hose.
Fill the engine cooling system.

Upper:

Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer toSection 414-01.
Partially drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.
Remove the air cleaner outlet tube. For additional information, refer toSection 303-12.
Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) electrical connector.

Remove the bolt and the accelerator control splash shield.

Disconnect the throttle position (TP) sensor electrical connector.

Disconnect the accelerator and speed control (if equipped) cables from the throttle linkage.

Remove the accelerator cable bracket nut.

Remove the lower accelerator cable bracket nut.

Remove the accelerator and speed control (if equipped) cables from the clip.

Remove the accelerator cable bracket.
Remove the nut.
Remove the accelerator cable bracket.

Disconnect the EGR valve vacuum connector.

Disconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum connection.

Disconnect the two pressure transducer hoses.

Disconnect the upper EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube fitting.

Disconnect the following connections:
Engine vacuum regulator (EVR) electrical connector
EVR vacuum connector

Disconnect the EGR backpressure transducer electrical connector.

Position aside the ignition coils and bracket assembly.
Disconnect the ignition coil electrical connectors.
Remove the retaining nuts and position the ignition coils and bracket assembly aside.

Disconnect the accelerator cable from the upper intake manifold clips.

Remove the screws and the intake cover plate.

Remove the bolts in the sequence shown.

Disconnect the two vacuum connections from the front of the intake manifold.

Disconnect the vapor management valve (VMV) purge line.

Disconnect the brake booster vacuum supply line at the LH rear upper intake connection.
Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose, and the two PCV heater hoses.

Remove the upper intake manifold and discard the old gasket.
Installation

NOTE: Use Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A and a suitable plastic or wooden scraper to clean the upper and lower intake manifold gasket surfaces.

Clean and inspect all surfaces, install new seals and gaskets.
Position the upper intake manifold and gasket and start the bolts.

Connect the two upper intake vacuum connections.

Connect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) tube, and the two PCV heater hoses.

Connect the vacuum supply line to the brake booster at the LH rear upper intake connection.
Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown.

Install the upper intake manifold cover plate and tighten the screws.

Install the accelerator cable bracket.
Position the accelerator cable bracket.
Install the bolt.

Install the lower accelerator cable bracket nut.

Install the accelerator cable bracket nut.

Connect the accelerator and speed control (if equipped) cables to the throttle linkage.

Position the accelerator and speed control (if equipped) cables into the clip.

Install the ignition coils and bracket assembly.
Install the ignition coils and bracket assembly.
Install the three retaining nuts.
Connect the ignition coil electrical connectors.

Connect the following connections:
Engine vacuum regulator (EVR) electrical connector
EVR vacuum connector

Connect the EGR valve vacuum connector.

Connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum connector.

Connect the upper EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube connection.

Connect the two pressure transducer hoses.

Connect the EGR backpressure transducer electrical connection.

Connect the TP sensor electrical connector.

Connect the IAC electrical connector.

Install the accelerator control splash shield.

Install the air cleaner outlet tube. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
Connect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.
Fill and bleed the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Well, my passenger exhaust manifold is indeed cracked in half like they commonly do. I am heavily soaking the bolts, but an very nervous of trying to torque on them. The last thing I have time for is pulling the motor. I got the back of the cab fairly rust free, and I think I have a game plan for boxing it all in.

 

[Turdle]

Ah
those bolts should come right out. try using a hammer where possible to tap the end of your ratchet-or wrench, freeing the bolts with the impact.

 

[Mbrooks420]

This is the great rusty north. I have snapped many a bolt off of this pig. I do, however, hope you are right. Barring any broken bolts/studs, I think it should be very do-able. I did have visions of smearing the crack with JB Weld, and hoping it would last a few days, but I suppose I'd better replace it. Manifold, gasket, bolt kit, rotors, pads, and a few pounds of welding wire and a plate, and maybe I'll be inspectable. If not, I'm removing the new tires, and burning it in the driveway.

 

[Turdle]

You may have issues with the 2 collector bolts-
if you can get the outer one out, and all the manifold to head bolts out-the manifold will loosen and rotate enough to cut the remaining inner collector bolt.

The thread size is the same as torsion adjuster bolts BTW

 

[Mbrooks420]

Well, I am down to the last bolt, the collector rear one. Very happy. Manifold was in 2 pieces. Dumb question, I can't just slap a cast manifold on it, right? Seems to me they couldn't be compatible. They look like the same setup in the pics, but it would save me $$$ so I think it isn't possible. Called the junk yards and they want $75. And when I get there it will probably be the awesome "2 piece design" like I currently have

 

[Turdle]

Yes, we replaced the tubular with cast manifolds on Bryan's Mounty.

Should be no issues. Other than the cast manifolds use a longer bolt in a couple of locations.

In fact they all may be a bit longer. Best to get the bolts also if you can so you can match them up to new ones.
If you cannot, the bolts should protrude into the head by 1/2" -3/4" at the most.

Be very careful not to get too long of bolt and torque it past the bottom of the threads--it may break off on ya. And we all know what that leads to.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Well, damn. The wife was bugging out, and I ended up buying the tubular style. I did get a $40 off coupon at least. My bolts can out looking brand new, but I will be looking to pick up a new set. I was actually shocked at how nice they looked. Do I install the gasket dry?

 

[techieman33]

yes, dry gasket

 

[Mbrooks420]

How in the hell do you get the manifold in there? I got it in the engine compartment, and behind the shock tower. Do those metal heat shield tube dealies come out? I was torquing on them pretty good with some channel locks, but they just crush, I can't get them to turn.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Was able to beat, wiggle, and force the tubes out. Managed to get the manifold where it needs to go. Wrestle getting a few of the bolts in around the tubes, and then the agony of defeat. The last bolt wants to cross thread. I loosened the manifold so it was floppy loose, and I still couldn't thread it in straight. Then I admitted failure, and undid all the bolts. Have to find a 10mm 1.50 tap tomorrow, and see if I can chase the threads out. Otherwise, one more bolt, a catalytic converter gasket, and I could have heard it run, with any luck without the ticking it has had since day one. It's always something.

 

[Turdle]

You might try drilling the offending header flange hole a bit larger-or enlarge it with a dremmel

 

[Mbrooks420]

I actually pulled it off entirely and still couldn't force it to start straight. I considered drilling the starter thread out, but that will be second to last straw.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Well, after calling around chasing a tap, I broke down and bought the whole set. Got it tapped, and the manifold wrestled on. The tubes on the manifold are slightly larger, making a socket impossible. On the worst one I ended up using all 4 14mm wrenches I had, along with a shorty 9/16. Afterwords I was afraid to start it, assuming it would be leaking. So the wife braved it. Wouldn't start. Cranked, and cranked. Pissed off I get in and notice the "Fuel Reset" light was on. Clicked the fuel reset, and it fired right up. Still had the leaking sound underneath. Defeated, I crawl under there, and both o2 sensors on the passenger bank are not in. They rattled out. I snugged them back down, and it's now quiet. What a ball buster.