Is this the right hose for SeaFoam treatment?

[SlipknoT74769]

Is this the right hose to add SeaFoam to?

and does anybody know if it distributes evenly?

 

[Turdle]

Yes, just be sure not to suck the Sea foam in too fast. There should be a slurping sound as it is sucked out of the can. Make sure more air than seafoam goes in, or you may hydrolock the engine.

 

[Maniak]

I prefer to take the cap off the un-used port and use my own smallish hose.

That way you don't have to worry about accidentally sucking way too much fluid in at once which is possible with the big brake booster hose. Plus you don't have to worry about breaking that fitting/gromet at the booster.

~Mark

 

[swshawaii]

If you must, take the advice given above very seriously. GL

Seafoam/Seized Engine/How to turn Crankshaft?
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=416939

Post #28

The engine is in fact seized and I will try to sell my explorer to someone interested in using it for parts. I am not going to drop an engine into it because it has over 200,000 miles, but I will miss it. I really enjoyed working on this vehicle and I was proud to own it. I must admit I'm pretty bummed out.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

I prefer to take the cap off the un-used port and use my own smallish hose.

That way you don't have to worry about accidentally sucking way too much fluid in at once which is possible with the big brake booster hose. Plus you don't have to worry about breaking that fitting/gromet at the booster.

~Mark

Where is this extra cap located? I'll look when I get home, but I'm actually using a regulated funnel with an on/off that can be barely opened to regulate liquid flow. I'll just pour 1/3 of the can into the funnel and barely open the spout so it trickles in the end of the hose.

Also, I don't know when the last oil change or maintenence was done on this vehicle, so I bought some cheap oil and a cheap filter, going to change the oil first (with new cheap filter), do the hose trick, add the recomended amount to the oil, then run it until the oil gets dirty, then do another oil change with premium oil and a premium filter. I'll add whatever is left over to the fuel tank. Next is my transmission. Anybody have a picture of the oil drain plug or where it is located on my 94?

Also, I'll search around for how to change the transmission fluid and filter, but any advice would be greatly appereciated 8)

Thanks for the help 8)

 

[Maniak]

Where is this extra cap located?

You have it circled in the 1st post. The octopus/manifold that the brake booster hose is connected to has some un-used ports. Those ports have a cap on them. Just take off a cap and put on a hose and viola... You have a spot to suck up seafoam without risking breaking the grommet on the booster.

~Mark

 

[natenkiki2004]

Plus you don't have to worry about breaking that fitting/gromet at the booster.

~Mark

Cheap fix if you do:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3224108&postcount=3

The rubber often cracks and is the source of vacuum leaks. Once I replaced mine, my brake boost holds vacuum for days after running the engine.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Cheap fix if you do:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3224108&postcount=3

The rubber often cracks and is the source of vacuum leaks. Once I replaced mine, my brake boost holds vacuum for days after running the engine.

I was really worried about that grommet, but I ended up getting the hose off just fine, vacuum is fine. The only problem I did have was the fact that NO WHITE SMOKE came out. As I was adding the SeaFoam, the engine was revving on it's own, was I adding it too slow?? After letting it sit for 15 minutes, I started it up and a couple small puffs of thick white smoke, then nothing. Is that normal?

 

[natenkiki2004]

You might have to do it faster then. If you do it slow, the engine may just burn the Seafoam rather than suck it in and drown it out. You're basically trying to soak and steam clean the inside of the engine. That's the theory anyway.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

You might have to do it faster then. If you do it slow, the engine may just burn the Seafoam rather than suck it in and drown it out. You're basically trying to soak and steam clean the inside of the engine. That's the theory anyway.

Yea, I figured, all that "hydrolock" talk had me pouring baby sips in there .. ... I got my oil changed and a new filter, flushed the raditor, and added SeaFoam to my fuel tank and oil as well.

Anybody know where the trabsmission dipstick is? Or how to change the fluid and filter? I've looked around foeums and videos and it's just generic "1990-2005" videos, nothing about where the stick or drain plug and filter are .. ...

 

[swshawaii]

Manually Flushing the A4LD transmission
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211143

A4LD - 4R70W - 4R44E - 4R55E Transmission How to Articles
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=386923

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Manually Flushing the A4LD transmission
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211143

A4LD - 4R70W - 4R44E - 4R55E Transmission How to Articles
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=386923

I'm going to add the Sea Foam Trans Tune fluid before I change the filter and fluid, would I just add it to the dipstick area? I still haven't located one, but I'm sure when I get under there, I'll find it. I wouldn't imagine to add it would mean to pull the lines would it?

Again, thank you all for your help. I got this truck from my Sister (ABSOLUTELY NO MAINTENANCE DONE IN YEARS) and just want to keep it running 8)

 

[swshawaii]

Dipstick yes. Your call on the additive, many here are adamantly against using ANYTHING besides the fluid. Do a search. GL

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Dipstick yes. Your call on the additive, many here are adamantly against using ANYTHING besides the fluid. Do a search. GL

I feel so stupid, the dipstick was right behond the spark plugs, hahahaha. Going to get the Tras Tune fluid now, transmission fluid and filter change next weekend. Thank you again for your help 8)

 

[natenkiki2004]

I did Seafoam TransTune then added a spin-on filter not long after. Few hundred miles later, I dropped the pan, replaced the internal filter and refilled with fresh fluid. Cured my cold delayed 1-2 shift. No adverse effects. These early mechanical transmissions are very picky with fluid. It needs to be clean and fresh in order to function right. They're abused far too often.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

I did Seafoam TransTune then added a spin-on filter not long after. Few hundred miles later, I dropped the pan, replaced the internal filter and refilled with fresh fluid. Cured my cold delayed 1-2 shift. No adverse effects. These early mechanical transmissions are very picky with fluid. It needs to be clean and fresh in order to function right. They're abused far too often.

Spin on filter? Like an in line filter? I'm getting the filter and fluid today .. ... Might wait till tomorrow to change it all. I would imagine the Trans Tune is still doing it's thing right? I hit the highway yesterday to clean my upper gears, today I'll stroll around town for the lowers. Fluid and filter change tomorrow.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Check my signature for info on it, there's more information. But it's a in-line spin-on filter like an oil filter. In fact, I use the FL-1A for both oil and trans. If I were you, I'd get the filter installed and then run it for a few hundred miles at LEAST then start swapping out fluid. ATF by it's nature is high in detergents but the Seafoam is also cleaning. Give the Seafoam time to clean and send the crud to the filter. Then give it fresh ATF.

Wait, I just realized you're probably talking about the internal filter. If that's the case, I'd just let the Seafoam do it's thing for a while longer and then drop the pan. The internal filter is pitiful, basically a screen. It'll let fine material through easily. It's only there to stop large chunks from getting in where they'll cause serious damage. A good reason why I went with an auxiliary filter. To trap the fine sand-like material.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Check my signature for info on it, there's more information. But it's a in-line spin-on filter like an oil filter. In fact, I use the FL-1A for both oil and trans. If I were you, I'd get the filter installed and then run it for a few hundred miles at LEAST then start swapping out fluid. ATF by it's nature is high in detergents but the Seafoam is also cleaning. Give the Seafoam time to clean and send the crud to the filter. Then give it fresh ATF.

Wait, I just realized you're probably talking about the internal filter. If that's the case, I'd just let the Seafoam do it's thing for a while longer and then drop the pan. The internal filter is pitiful, basically a screen. It'll let fine material through easily. It's only there to stop large chunks from getting in where they'll cause serious damage. A good reason why I went with an auxiliary filter. To trap the fine sand-like material.

Wow, that's freakin' awesome, I'm gonna have to follow suit and install one of those, it obviously bumps the system up to 4 quarts (My stock Trans system is 3 quarts). right? Since the filter holds about a quart at any given time? Do you have a more specific parts list (Mostly the bracket and fitting)?

I'm worried about letting it run too much longer, for some reason, after the SeaFoam treatment and running it hard on the highway yesterday, now my check engine light kicks on after about 5 minutes of driving, stays on for a bit, then goes off. Could it just be all that crap I cleaned loose clogging the filter or something? That's the only reason I sensed urgency in changing the filter. I hope I didn't damage anything (I ran it up close to 100MPH on the highway) .. ... Also, is this the Trans Pan? and the lines I'm looking for to change the fluid are the ones going all the way up front to the cooler right?

 

[natenkiki2004]

Our Explorers aren't smart enough to throw many codes for the transmission (I think only the guys that do an auto to manual swap get codes since the whole harness is disconnected). You certainly won't get codes for lack of fluid or pressure. If you run out of fluid for any reason, the transmission will just simply fail to engage. You'll be sitting in drive with a high idle and not moving anywhere. That's all.

Yes, that's your transmission pan. Fairly easy to get at to replace the internal filter. Just leave a couple of bolts in place and then break the seal on the pan and be prepared for a bath of ATF. I was super careful but ended up getting it all over my shirt & arms.


I'm impressed that you got an Explorer up to 100 miles an hour.

If yours is a 4x4, your system probably holds beyond 8 quarts. All told, when I did mine, I think I put 5-7 quarts back in before the transmission would engage again. I added the recommended 3 or 4 quarts and it did absolutely nothing. If I were you, I'd buy 5 quarts and start there.

Also, do you have a gasket for the pan? Don't use those cork & rubber mix gaskets. I put one on mine and torqued it to spec, painfully alternating and doing incremental torques. Looking at it now, it's leaking again and all squished out. Piece of junk. If I wasn't dropping the pan again to change a seal, I'd be super pissed.


Definitely check out that check engine light. It's easy enough to pull codes and there's plenty of online databases to tell you what's going on. Like I said, these vehicles aren't super smart so most check engine codes are relatively easy to fix.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Our Explorers aren't smart enough to throw many codes for the transmission (I think only the guys that do an auto to manual swap get codes since the whole harness is disconnected). You certainly won't get codes for lack of fluid or pressure. If you run out of fluid for any reason, the transmission will just simply fail to engage. You'll be sitting in drive with a high idle and not moving anywhere. That's all.

Yes, that's your transmission pan. Fairly easy to get at to replace the internal filter. Just leave a couple of bolts in place and then break the seal on the pan and be prepared for a bath of ATF. I was super careful but ended up getting it all over my shirt & arms.


I'm impressed that you got an Explorer up to 100 miles an hour.

If yours is a 4x4, your system probably holds beyond 8 quarts. All told, when I did mine, I think I put 5-7 quarts back in before the transmission would engage again. I added the recommended 3 or 4 quarts and it did absolutely nothing. If I were you, I'd buy 5 quarts and start there.

Also, do you have a gasket for the pan? Don't use those cork & rubber mix gaskets. I put one on mine and torqued it to spec, painfully alternating and doing incremental torques. Looking at it now, it's leaking again and all squished out. Piece of junk. If I wasn't dropping the pan again to change a seal, I'd be super pissed.


Definitely check out that check engine light. It's easy enough to pull codes and there's plenty of online databases to tell you what's going on. Like I said, these vehicles aren't super smart so most check engine codes are relatively easy to fix.

I pushed it really hard so I hope didn't damage anything. I'll take it somewhere that pulls codes for free since I don't have an ODB reader on hand. I got a new filter from AutoZone. They didn't say it came with the gasket, Advance definitely did. Would it be in the box? I haven't opened it yet, but I can always return it and get the one from Advance w/ Gasket if needed.

I have an AT .. ... A4LD it's 3 quarts for servicing, and not smart to flush with 160,000 miles.
I have read about torquing the bolts (Is that the right term?) Is that absolutely neccisary? I don't have a torque wrench but could certainly get one. What exactly is the point of it all?

I'm really worried about that check engine light now, hopefully it's nothing too expensive.