james duff/ ranger brake swap brake hoses

[cerberusaardvark]

hey guys, having some issues with my final product. i did the james duff stage two lift plus the ranger brake swap and i have mixed results. my stainless brake hoses from james duff both burst as soon as i applied brake pressure!! so now im using he old hoses just to keep brake system integrity. they are stretched to the limit, and im looking for an alternate brake hose setup. ive read that the rubber brake hoses are more reliable and stainless, but im not sure which type to get. i read somewhere that the hoses from an f250 1999 would work.

also, my brakes have been bled but the pedal still feels spongy when i turn the car on. i had the battery disconnected when i did the parts swap so the computer could relearn the braking parameters but that didnt seem to work. suggestions?

 

[brewdan23]

i would check the booster it could also be because of the dual piston calipers vs the stock singlesdue to increased volume in fluid

 

[cloaked_chaos]

I'm using the Pro Comp braided stainless steel extended brake line kit from 4wheelparts. You get both front and rear brake lines for $115. I don't know if it's compatible with the ranger calipers though, but I'm assuming it will work fine.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Brakes/Brake-Hose-Kit.aspx?t_c=65&t_s=22&t_pt=8613&t_pl=1804&t_pn=EXP7305

Also, from the pictures it looks like you have kinked the ends of your brake lines quite a lot. You cant do that with brake lines and expect them to not fail.

 

[cerberusaardvark]

im not sure how the ends got twisted like that. maybe when i was flexing the line to get the hardline screwed in. how would i check the booster? would that involve removing the master cylinder?

 

[Maniak]

I've been using Earles (holley) brake lines. I measured how long I wanted them, went to the local speed shop with a stock set and they got me a set the length I wanted with the correct fittings. I've had them on for more than a few years.

Without the spring/shock the beam drops farther than it can assembled and I'm still not maxing out the brake line. Its getting close but when I have the spring/shock on its doesn't droop as far.

Build-day3 009 by maniak_az, on Flickr

To keep that brake line in check I used a pair of insulated cable clamps. I also put some high temp spiral wire wrap to help protect them in case they bounce off the tire.

shot of drivers side front suspension by maniak_az, on Flickr

~Mark

 

[brewdan23]

no you dont have to remove the master unless you see fluid underneath between the master and boosterthan you have a leaking master and might have fluid in the booster to check the booster get vacuum gage now disconnect the vac line before the check valve (booster side) use a t to connect the gauge in line start the engine let it build vac 30 sec about turn eng off vacuum should hold at bout 18 inch lbs also did you bleed the abs hope this helps

 

[Maniak]

no you dont have to remove the master unless you see fluid underneath between the master and boosterthan you have a leaking master and might have fluid in the booster to check the booster get vacuum gage now disconnect the vac line before the check valve (booster side) use a t to connect the gauge in line start the engine let it build vac 30 sec about turn eng off vacuum should hold at bout 18 inch lbs also did you bleed the abs hope this helps

Not to be too nit-picky, but some punctuation would help. It took me 4 times to read it and understood what you meant. It helped that I knew how to do the tests first.

~Mark
[/end of PSA]